Bmax weight problems
 

Hello,

can somebody give me some tips in loosing some weight on my Bmax.
It's a straight out of the box champ edition and is much to heavy.

I think that most Bmax drivers (inc team drivers) like to run it heavy - i believe standard race weight is 1800g....

please correct me if I'm wrong ;)

So you mean that they run the car at approx 1800gr, even when the minimum is +/- 1600gr?

Yes, I believe so.

4wd weight is 1588g.

Car Weight
 

The car was designed to run NiMH cells and, in my opinion, does run better when you add extra weight under your lipos.

Yup 1800g is the advice I got and I tried it like that right out of the box. It runs like a dream and I doubt I'll be removing the extra weight anytime soon...:D

I don't think the weight is used in the car all the time, just in speicific track conditions... i'm sure Yardy would be the best person to clear this up though.

thats the whole point of that car is its weight :confused:
thats why the car is planted on any type of surface

Tom runs no weight under the lipos, now that he runs big bore shocks with the new softer springs!

Weight poblem
 

Ashleys B Max weighs 1660 grams but he has to run ultra light rear and hard front big bores

Yeah Yokomo now do 3 new rates of Big Bore spring, I don't know the lb/in rate but the colours in order from hardest to softest goes green, pink, yellow.

Green, pink and yellow are the next 3 rates down from the current big bore softest spring, which is orange.

Because of having a now softer rear spring option (I use the green most often but sometimes pink if very bumpy) I run my car with no additional weight, but even then my car weighs in at 1720g.

If the orange BB spring is the softest you have, it is worthwhile using added weight because they are a little hard without- I did use around 120g under my lipos when I ran the orange rear spring, car was back up at NiMh weight.

With smaller shocks, again it depends on which springs are in use. If using the kit black springs at both ends, definitely run with weight added- if you can come down softer to maybe the green or pink BX springs on the rear, you can then take the weight out- but as well as your spring choice affecting whether to use added weight or not, the nature of the track surface or layout can do also.

If on a very high bite track that demands a lot of quick direction change (lots of chicanes, tight and twisty corners) it is worthwhile trying to run the car as light as possible, making it more responsive. A lower grip track, or one that has many high speed sweepers can call for more weight to help keep the car planted at speed.

If your car feels too "lazy" and too "safe" it is time to lose the weight, if it feels too twitchy and unstable, add weight.

Not a right or wrong answer to the weight debate, sometimes more can work for you, other times not.

Thanks for the heads up Tom!:thumbsup:

Thanks for yours advices, very usefull

@ Yardee:

wow men, thats some nice explanation , thnx

Hey Tom, with this change in weight and shock springs, have you played around with shock positionning at all? Any changes? And any thought on that?

Cheers!:thumbsup:

Not really felt a need to play with shock positions so much... when I first switched to the big bore shocks I ran them in the outer hole on the wishbone as I used to with the smaller and felt the car was way too stiff and suffered with the lack of droop. With the big bore springs being more "accurate" and a real noticable difference from hard to soft rates, I don't think it is that necessary to compensate for stiffness with shock positions.

As for upper shock locations, I know on the clay of Japan/USA they have been using the inner hole on the shock tower at the rear which can make the rear of the car roll a little smoother... never really tried that position, I have never moved from the middle hole on the towers at each end of the car.