flouro pink
 

Hi All

Which is the best flouro pink in spray can and airbrush format, i have been using faskolor flouro pink and not happy with the overall appearance

Cheers Paul

faskolor is buy far the best how are you applying it?? how many coats etc

what problem did you have with it?? It got to be laid up in thin coats...

I set the compressor to around 30psi and applied about 4 thin coats and backed with white but the overall appearance was quite a off colour and did not come out that bright at all but when i checked it aganist another bottle there was a difference in colour, so i thought i may turn to use a aerosol instead,

Do flouroescent paints braek down after a period of time?

or is there a different backer i could use to enhance the colour?

as long as its fully dryed before u backed it with white it should be perfect, all water based paints are damaged if frost gets to them,

Also whats the best way of storing faskolor paint?

anyone used the pactra airbrush solvent based flouro pink

if you store it for any period of time, you will need to give it a good shake before use.

Sounds like you need more coats, whenever I use the faskolor flouro paints I put on 2-3 light coats then 2-3 heavy coats making sure each is dry before the next with some heat and then leave for a few hours before I back with white.

With the fluro faskolour paints you need to do lots of coats, as the fasfluro are quite a bit thinner than the solid colours you need to build up more layers.

In this weather you can start spraying at one end of a body and by the time you get to the other side the first side will be dry enough for another coat.
If its still wet then a quick go with a hairdryer will sort it out.

Idealy you want to be spraying thin enough coats so that you dont have to resort to the hairdryer (unless its a very small area)

I dont think it will hurt if you put too many layers on.

The pactra enamel fluro has similar problems, you will still need a few coats. Also the fluro can "melt" into the white backing if your white is thinned out quite a bit. If anything the pactra is harder to use.

I found the spazstix range of flouro's good in the past, but they are solvent and give that proper painting smell. mmmmmmmm

Pactra acryllic water-based Lexan paint wasn't very good IMO. Chipped very easily for a Lexan paint, so I never went back to it.

I have shot the Createx/Faskolor/AutoAir paints for years, and the trick to spraying fluorescents or any water based paint is just like everyone else said—lots of light, thin, dry coats. The more the better. I force-dry between coats with a heat gun and it works very well to speed up the paint process. I like to shoot more coats with fluorescents, though, thinning 2:1 paint to reducer (clear glass cleaner), and let it go on really easy. Patience is a virtue with water-based paints, especially the fluorescents.

Be sure to back with a good coat of white when you are done, too. No one tells you that, but its a key to the day-glo paint "popping."


All of these were done with the same water-based fluorescent paint you are using... (orange, red, pink, purple)

http://www.squareheaddesign.com/pain.../dixon_037.jpg

http://www.squareheaddesign.com/pain...rvette_001.jpg

http://www.squareheaddesign.com/pain...i_yz10_006.jpg

Its only me that can get away with only 3 coats on flo's then! lol


I put one light coat, force dry, then another light coat, force dry, then a heavy coat. And it always turns out bloody bright!!:thumbsup: back with two coats of white and bobs your uncle.

Always use a fairly wide pattern (spray from a little further away). Otherwise you will get blotchy streaks. Not sure if this is the problem you're having?

I use Createx flourecent hot pink, which is quite thin compared to faskolor, which I find too thick for my liking.

Same exact paint. ;)

I do exactly the same, and it works for me. The floro's are mega bright too.

Cannot fault the faskolor range at all, its the mutts nuts as far as im concerned. Easy to spray and never ever flakes or chips in my experience.

I find it generally needs a high pressure to spray with though. I usually set my regulator to 4bar to start with, then 'fine tune' from there depending on the colour (thickness of paint) and temp etc.

Cheers everyone for your replies, great answers

one thing i have noticed with the Faskolor white is just so thick to use i have reduced down a bit with water but still manages to clogg up the airbrush under 40psi of pressure,

whats the best reducer to use and how much? i was kinda thinking of using auto air reducer would this work?

also noticed whilst reading through the replies, some of you are using Createx paint, where is the best place to buy this paint range from?

another small question what's the best way of getting good crisp clean cut lines with using liquid mask once dried

Thank you all for your help

Glass cleaner also is very handy when cleaning the air brush between different stages. Well, at least that's what a guy told me who is doing the air brush game for a living. And I have to say it works out ok (with water based paints of course!). But be aware! Some glass cleaners contain a chemical similar to teflon (to let water drops peel better from window panes I guess). If you forget so spray clean water trough the gun it may happen that the paint you spray afterwards tends to peel also.

I use glass cleaner to thin my paint and for cleaning the airbrush.

Seems to work well and is inexpensive. (I bought 12 bottles from lidl for 30p each)

bugger, everywhere I looked, the glass cleaner had a blue tint, and the only one I found that was clear, had the wax finish...

So I use Createx airbrush cleaner and their reducer to.

Createx 4011 reducer is the best thing to reduce it with.
I clean with water....thats it. Every now and then I'll give it a blast with Liquid Reamer .....-

https://airbrushes.com/product_info....715a162362e435

brings the airbrush up like new. :)