Building Tips For Cougar SV Pro
 

Evening ladies and gentlemen,

I have just picked up my Schumacher Cougar SV Pro kit and was wondering if you have any hints and tips that you could throw my way when building it?

Many thanks.

Andy

Take your time and read the manual carefully, before you build the shocks, wash them out to remove any of the left over anodizing stuff :thumbsup:

when building the gearbox, when you get to the section were you fit the 3 screws through the top part of the gearbox, don't over tighten them in fact leave them loose,and skip the layshaft build and go straight ahead to mount gearbox top to chassis, tighten the 4 downward facing screws first then the 3 u left loose earlier this ensure the gearbox is fitted true and square,and then build layshaft,
make sure the pins inside the gear box that go through the plastic idler are in flush both sides before fitting o rings,and when building the shocks don't over tighten the shock tops or it causes to much pre load and ruins the bladders,and dont over tighten the lower shock mount at the front (the one that goes through the front wishbone)or it stiffens up the front end oddly,and make sure you clean out the shocks really really well.

Change all the suspension and steering tie rods to titanium, and don't crush the cir-clip when installing it into the diff.

as already mentioned in another thread you only really need to change the front top link ones,

I had one of the bushings work its way loose even with loctite. This is sort of insurance. Just get a longer screw and m3 nut. :cool:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t/IMG_0597.jpg

Cheers!!
 

Thanks for the advance people, appreciate it.

Andy

when building the layshaft glue the drive pins in as the o rings are going to break within 6 or 7 batterys then the pins will fly out and destroy everything in your gearbox :thumbdown:

hi,

got an SV today and got through the first bag of bits, enjoyable build so far but have one question.

the rear wishbones have a little binding, i dont think they are the wishbones but the split spheres anyone know a way around this?

thanks for any help :D

Make sure the spheres are fully home. They are tight in the holders when you first press them in. That should be fine.

yeah just had a look and they are in the holders properly, its not that much to be honest its not enough to stop the travel of the shocks.

thanks

Another tip thats been floating around the forums. Long rod ends on the rear shocks for more droop.
:thumbsup:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...t/IMG_0598.jpg

You need to dremel away a bit of material from the chassis for this to work properly. Just a small amount in the corner to allow the front edge of the wishbone to drop.

Had this problem too, what scew lengths have you used?

Try a 3X16mm button head.

This is an idea I going to try. Just built the car and not raced it yet and I wanted to put some weight in there right away. One of these are bolted on each side of the lipo. A total of 96grams. Are having a new topdeck designed so I can mount the speedo on it. The topdeck opens from the front instead of the back to remove the lipo.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5465339_n.jpg

96 grammes sounds a lot

May be so but we run very much on dirt and then it could be useful. I made more holes so the brass could be moved back and forth. If it appears to be too much weight, I just take away some with my very fine saw;)