511 Shocks - Limiters and Springs ?
 

Hi again guys

A couple of queries regarding the rear shocks in particular.

Do you run more than the kit limiter on the rear shaft ? I have removed the limiter and fitted an oring as a spacer but the driveshaft end runs very close to the end of the outdrive on one side.

If one of you could measure your rear shocks from mount to mount with calipers then id appreciate it.

Also, is it me again or are the rear springs too long ! Looks like they could do with a coil removing to make use of the ride height adjustment platform. I was debating whether to remove it altogether !

Cheers !

Rich

Rear springs are perfect length on mine. Have you put any weight at the rear? Think I've balanced the car out with 40g's at the rear centre of the car between the lipo's.

As for limiters I just followed the kit instructions when building my shocks. However the drive shafts do pop out when cornering outdoor if i put the shocks on the inside wishbone hole.

Hi Neil

Yeah i have got the Rudebits Lipo tray with two of the three centre sections fitted. Its more the fact that the springs are partially compressed even with the collar fully wound to the top. Im used to my TRF shocks on my touring car and the springs are slack if uncompressed allowing you to use the collar to set the ride height pretty low if desired.

I have wound the ball end right the way onto the shaft too, again unlike you do when building Tamiya Touring TRF shocks.

I do hold my hands up and admit i dont know much about buggy shocks though - maybe they are all like that ?

Im tempted to fit a second oring within the shock as a limiter to prevent the shafts popping out. Hupo runs his on the inside at the bottom on the rear according to the TRF UK website setup sheet thats all.

Cheers for the input mate.

You can do 2 things really to sort out the spring issue, cut a coil off which I think Pidge does looking at the pics of his car, he will be able to confirm this?

Or I have fitted cut down HB ball joints so the spring cup sit lower and you can run full length springs.

Cheers Mark - didnt think i was going mad.

If Lee reads these threads..... then can you tell me what you do with the limiters too please ?

For now i think ill leave the kit limiter out and fit two o-rings instead.

Cheers

Lee runs with either an additional 1mm or additional 2mm limiter, can't remember, think it's double kit. I use kit limiter but run diff low rather than high, no driveshaft pop that way! It WILL pop out with kit diff/limiters if you use the inside wishbone hole!

Also, I use full length rear springs but no blue collar (I use AE collars instead as they are thinner) which works for me but means you have no rideheight adjustment at the back. Lee/Griff etc have one coil removed from the spring instead!

I think Simon Crabb has Lee's RHR setup Sheet but as a pointer the main changes included running blue rear spring, so if your cutting down I'd cut both a yellow and blue set!

Cheers Dave!

Found a pic

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/2010n...e/DSC_3107.jpg

Springs are indeed cut ! Is there anything else you might of forgotten to mention ? ;) I dont want shafts popping or anythign else dropping to bits if i can help it :thumbsup:

Im hoping to use it for the first time this weekend on astro so is the rest of Hupos setup from Bilbao still relevant ?

SimonCrabb - if you read this dude then a copy of that setup sheet would be much appreciated :)

PS - looks like the sliiper shaft issue has been cured with a new spur gear. The old one must of been warped slightly.

Cheers

Rich

You can find Lee's setup here http://rclazy.com/2010/05/17/setup-t...11-lee-martin/ :thumbsup:

Cheers fella sorted :thumbsup:

Course I read these!! I'm here to help!

I use 1 coil cut springs as seen, as I like to be able to adjust the ride height. Sometimes as low as 17mm! Or high as 23.

The rear shock limiter I use is a 2.5mm.

Hope this helps rich.

Lee

And as if by magic .... :thumbsup:

Cheers Lee, finally finished it tonight after a few teething problems.

I have fitted a 2.0mm and an o-ring so shouldnt be too far off now. Cut rear springs the same as you do too.

Cant wait to try it Sunday :thumbsup:

Where are you running sunday rich? I found the hupo setup a good base to start from, but on the mega high grip at rhr, Lee's setup was waaaaaay better. Try both, it will only take ten mins to change:thumbsup:
Great car, i'm sure you'll love it!!! Get it on the weighing scales too, so you know you are running on or over the legal weight;).

Cheers Griff, yeah I'm a bit like a kid at Xmas. Sad git ;). Hoping to run at Eastrax fingers crossed. Surprised that no front arb is used to reduce steering but I know almost nothing about buggies!

I'm assuming that you cut off the outside edge of spikes when running on astro?

That rear toe block at the back.....it says 3.3 on mine, I've never seen any others for sale ?

Lastly, I'm running 87/18 on a Sp 5.5, how does that sound?

Just waiting for the shell to get back from our Kifo and then I'll weigh it.

I'm ready to roll!

Gearing sounds good. If i were you i'd try the tryes full first and go from there. So far on astro i have taken spikes off from the outer and inner, but i know others who haven't. (personal preference)

Holy balls, are there any jumps on that course?! :D

Lee, check your PM, thanks so much!

Aaron

Rich, I dont think there is anymore rear toe blocks. Mine is the 3.3 also. I have noticed some people running some with no writing on the back and this one must be the 501 kit block which will be 3 degrees instead of 3.3. To reduce the steering I increased the toe out which made the car handle amazing.

At Tally I cut inside and outside row off front and back tyres and car was great. At RHR however the car just wanted to tip all the time. I tried cutting an extra row off the outside rear but this made the backend too loose. I increased the camber from 1 to 2 degrees and this made a huge difference. I think the main reason for the grip roll was the fact that RHR astro is still in new condition and really grippy.

Im running a 6.5 with a 21/91 ratio. Had to turn the end point down to 95% at RHR as the car just seemed too fast. Maybe it was the really good grip I seemed to get...

Lee, when you cut your springs down where did you put the cut end, up or down? And does this not make the spring want to move off the mounting when under strain? I tried this using an associated spring on my old 501 when Lipo's first surfaced and the spring didn't seem to sit right...

Cheers again Griff, if i decide to gear up ( as i have heard that the SP motors need gearing to get any speed out of them ) then what would you reckon would be the biggest pinion you`d risk ? Or shall i just go on motor temp as with Touring Car ?


Cheers for the extra info Neil. All useful stuff. i have pre cut every other spike on the outer fronts only for now, ran it up and down my garden :lol: retightened the diffs, checked the slipper, all seems good :thumbsup:

There was a definite clicking with the Tamiya pinion so i have removed that too and fitted a Kawada one. Things are much quieter using AE and Kawada vs the Tamiya spur and pinion.

In answer to what you asked Lee, to me it looks as if the cut coil is at the top. The cut end actually sits in the groove thats machined into the collar quite nicely.

I`ll let Lee confirm this of course but mine looks to sit much better now i am able to lower the rear end. it was that fraction too high before IMHO.

I used a needle file to file the cut end of the spring flat so that the collar wasnt sitting on a sharp point.

Cheers mate

Oh PS, make sure you dont do what i almost did and cut off the end with the paint marking on it :lol:...... it was close

they also wear off after a while:lol: