Which axles for more turn in ?
 

Which front axles give more turn in, in-line or the trailing ones ?

I ran the in-lines outdoors and my car didn't seem to turn in so well compared with other x6 cars, even with plenty of weight up front, so i'm guessing the trailing ones give more grip to turn in ?

Don't want to take them off if i'm wrong !

Did you move the hub carrier spacer to the front when you installed the axles or did you just swap the axles over? Without the spacer the wheelbase gets longer and not in a good way.

The inline axles should give you better turn-in and a more lively front end.

excuse my dumbness but do you mean swapping from the axles that you pop the plastic nut on the outside of the wheel against the blue ones with the screw in the end?

+1 ..

The difference is the axle's location in relation to the pin in the caster block. Trailing is just behind the pin and the inline has a hole in it for the pin to pass through.
The effect is more than just a change in wheelbase, but think that's been covered better by other posters.

I swapped from the ones with the nut on the outside to the blue ones with the 1/16" screw in the end and didn't see any change to the relation to the pin. as far as I could see there was no change...

anyone got any pics to help me in this moment of dumbness understand? :D

I swapped these
http://www.m-k-racing.com/images/as9613.jpg

for
http://www.m-k-racing.com/images/ass1585.jpg

am I thinking about something completely different?

yes, inline axles typically have a hole in the axle itself so as the camber pin goes straight through it. whereas the axles you pictured are both of the "non-inline" variety.
basically all you did was switch from heavier stock steel axles to lightweight aluminum ones

Those 2 are the same, notice they do not have a hole through them for a hinge pin which means they are trailing axles.
The black ones are the 'Team' ones the blue are 'factory team'
For the inline axles you have to change both the hub and axle

I get you now!

these are inline then?
http://www.m-k-racing.com/images/as9623.jpg

and you need to fit these
http://www.m-k-racing.com/images/as9577.jpg

do they do them with the nicer screw in the end?

precisely :thumbsup:

you don't need anything holding them in place, screws etc., as the camber block hingepin (that goes through them) holds them in place.


personally, I change from one variety to the other primarily dependant on the track/layout. for tight layouts I use in-line axles (for quicker steering response), and for highspeed tracks with more wide open corners I use the non-inline style. but it's a personal preference thing.

Yep, you got it now. No, they do not make any of the button-head screw
variety. Wish they would, as over here in the states we run inline axles all the time.

Mint. I got it now.

Sorry for sounding dumb. I've only been racing the B4 for a month now :D

I know a certain company who make the trailing axles out of steel with the wheel held on by a screw. I was kinda hoping said company would make steel inline versions with a screw fixing...

Guess which company ;)

I know, I know.

I spent about 3 hours one day trying to make some 2601 trailing axles into inlines.... wrecked about 4 of them doing it, and broke the 2 I thought might work in about 3 laps. Steel inline axles are one of those many 'back-burner' projects we have.

No I didn't move it, should I ?

Yes, you should, otherwise you end up with a super-long front end and less steering lock. Run the spacer in front of the hub carrier to keep the wheelbase the same.

A couple of drivers have been experimenting with running a long front end but you need to dremel the wishbones and hub carrier to have full steering lock.

Cheers for that info, might explain why my car wasn't turning in too well.....