D4 shots
 

DCM showed me this today - some of my action shots on the hot bodies website including the main title image which is cool

(all used with permission of course)

http://www.hbeurope.com/kit.php?partNo=61410〈=en

The studio shots that hpi take are cool, I wish I had more than a bit of card on the work surface for my review shots - it doesn't take much, just a bit of a decent light box, but they put a lot of time into getting all those shots so nice.

yeah, they look good. Adam pointed out that I'd got a bit of free advertising on there too.
Nice little TSDesigns logo, smack bang on the side of the shell.

Nice.;)

Top job Jimmy...... as always :)

I wonder if I can get something for them using pics of my track?

HBPI's blurbs on their website are always good.

They've managed to allay any possible fears people may have. I'm particularly happy to see the paragraph about the supply chain and spares back up.

Elliott.

jimmy, are you building/reviewing this car? if i get into electric, this is the car i want to get with

yeah sure am - I've been delayed a bit with other stuff but it's looking good. :)

They have some strange material choises though, stainless steel shock shafts and pivot pins? :confused: :confused:

G

stainless is very strong if you use the right grade..i used some top grade stainless on my 1/8th and never bent one,and of course they dont rust :)

it just depends how much chromium it has in it,this gives it its tensile strength
dave

I hear ya dave, but if its free cutting enough to make threads on both ends of a shock shaft then......... :o :o

G

i wouldnt have thought auto screw cutters would be too bothered about free cutting properties graham,not with the amount of coolant blasted on them..now alloy yes as thats a pig when you dont use fc stuff.

tha main thing with stainless is that you dont screw stainless into stainless as it can cold weld together as the oxide barrier is scraped away and fused with the other part,not sure on stainless into alloy tho,altho they both have oxide barriers.

only time will tell if they will be ok

I thought thos pictures looked familiar when i was updating my news site!

Great work Jimmy!

You can mate s/s to s/s if you use the proper anti-seize lubricant and torque to the proper tolerances. I've used the brand "Anitseez" from www.bostick-us.com in my job (merchant marine engineer, 26 yrs.) and on all my cars(regular and RC) with no galling problems either due to heat, vibration or salt water incursion. One thing to very sure of is to not clean mateing threads with a standard steel wire brush before assembly due to minute steel paticles left behind to rust and lock the threads.

yes always clean stainless with a stainless steel wire brush to stop it contaminating the threads.

ive not used a slip compound because i simpy dont use ss into ss or alloy,but as you say it should work fine,it lets you tighten them a little more tho tho as a bonus.