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-   -   Misc Non-Standard Part supplier reqd. (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42757)

JezT 23-03-2010 07:26 PM

Misc Non-Standard Part supplier reqd.
 
Hi,

I've searched the web for some 5x7x1mm axle spacers/washers/shims and have only been able to find a Kyosho part (W149) at £4.50 for a pair! For a tiny washer, albeit these are aluminium, I think that is steep. There must be a supplier of small bits out there (not necessarily rc cars) that could supply these cheaper..... Anyone have any contacts?

BTW: it's to fit between the c clip and the back bearing of the front axle of the Mad Rat to stop the binding problem when you tighten the wheel nut.... I know a solution is to tighten then "back off" half a turn but I don't like the wobble this results in.... just wanted to try this solution.

Battle_axe 24-03-2010 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JezT (Post 358669)
Hi,

I've searched the web for some 5x7x1mm axle spacers/washers/shims and have only been able to find a Kyosho part (W149) at £4.50 for a pair! For a tiny washer, albeit these are aluminium, I think that is steep. There must be a supplier of small bits out there (not necessarily rc cars) that could supply these cheaper..... Anyone have any contacts?

BTW: it's to fit between the c clip and the back bearing of the front axle of the Mad Rat to stop the binding problem when you tighten the wheel nut.... I know a solution is to tighten then "back off" half a turn but I don't like the wobble this results in.... just wanted to try this solution.

i think the problem is more that you need a tube inside the two bearings like a sort of crush tube so when its tightned up the bearings are not pulled together

JezT 24-03-2010 08:04 AM

Battle-axe,

Thanks for your reply; There is a flange within the front hub that already does that ie grips between the outer bearing on the "back" and "front".... if you pull the "front" bearing out you can see the inner bearing sits free of this. The only component that sits across both inner and outer bearing is the c clip at the back.

Also, the 12mm hex nut has a "spacer" molded into it at the back that only pulls onto the inner bearing, when tightened - it is the equivalent of this that I am trying to source for the other end ie between the c clip and the back bearing.

Battle_axe 24-03-2010 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JezT (Post 358877)
Battle-axe,

Thanks for your reply; There is a flange within the front hub that already does that ie grips between the outer bearing on the "back" and "front".... if you pull the "front" bearing out you can see the inner bearing sits free of this. The only component that sits across both inner and outer bearing is the c clip at the back.

Also, the 12mm hex nut has a "spacer" molded into it at the back that only pulls onto the inner bearing, when tightened - it is the equivalent of this that I am trying to source for the other end ie between the c clip and the back bearing.

ok well i think you should give it a go but i have tryed many things and can not sort it out for the life of me i will have another go using this way

JezT 24-03-2010 05:40 PM

Some success - took a brass washer, filed it down to the correct outside diameter and when it sat in the right position it did do the job but.... it wasn't a perfect fit on the inside diameter,so slipped around a bit, wasn't 5mm think it was AF of some similar size.... will try to find some 5mm washer and try again.

Also, think I will have to go the route of aluminium 12mm Hex nuts to firm things up further..... As always, will have to get 2 sets as my son and I both run Mad Rats.... can't do anything on mine and not on his!

j.m. 26-03-2010 02:07 PM

The same thing happens on my downhill longboards. If I tighten the wheelnut with no spacers, the bearings get squeezed together and bind.

I have an aluminum spacer between the bearings that only touches the inner race, this permits the wheel nut to be tightened as much as possible without binding.

I also have very small, thin washers that fit between th ewheel nut and bearing on the outside of the wheel, and the same thing between the truck and the wheel. These washers make sure that he only surface of the bearing that is contacted by a stationary surface is the inner race.

Need picks?

Jon

JezT 27-03-2010 02:50 AM

Thats exactly what I mean - will continue my pursuit of 5x7x1mm spacers until it kills me!

j.m. 27-03-2010 05:59 AM

Make some...

Your looking for a 5mm dia and 1mm wall?

pro4nut 27-03-2010 08:20 PM

There are axle shims knocking about that would do this job i have a few packs of .1mm and .2mm that i use to space the drive pins on my cars. The ones i had were made by tamiya, sorry don't know part numbers.

JezT 27-03-2010 11:02 PM

Brilliant ProNut, just ordered Tamiya Part No 53587 - set of 10 each of 0.1 0.2 0.3mm shims; Will see if my theory is correct when these arrive.

nikos2002 28-03-2010 06:04 PM

I got mine from HPI or Traxxas (I forget which)- just found them on the wall at a hobby shop. I thnk I still have the header card in my pit bag. I will try and post it later.

nikos2002 28-03-2010 10:28 PM

It was Traxxas part #1985.

JezT 29-03-2010 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikos2002 (Post 360726)
It was Traxxas part #1985.

Thanx for digging that part number out - unfortunately they are 5x8 so I think they would catch on the outer part of the bearing; I'll see how the Tamiya ones do when they arrive.

rob martin 30-03-2010 12:57 AM

Actually if u guys get some aftermarket 12mm hexes with the set screws you will be able to crank down as hard as u want cause the set screw will keep the hex from binding on the outer bearing on the hub carriers.

JezT 30-03-2010 08:54 AM

Thanx Rob, I'm ahead of you there - A set of Ansmann 12mm Hexs (Pt 125000316) were on the same order as the Tamiya shims, so both should be here soon; I'll have all bases covered!

rob martin 30-03-2010 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JezT (Post 361353)
Thanx Rob, I'm ahead of you there - A set of Ansmann 12mm Hexs (Pt 125000316) were on the same order as the Tamiya shims, so both should be here soon; I'll have all bases covered!

okkk:thumbsup:

nikos2002 31-03-2010 03:59 AM

As Rob said, you will like the alum hex!! I used the washers listed before and after I had the hexs (and I have used both the TQ and Kyosho hubs on my car) with no issues - they fit and they were inexpensive!!

JezT 22-04-2010 05:01 PM

Ok Guys,

Got my Hex nuts and fitted them - great improvement but... ever the perfectionist, still not happy with the amount of lateral movement ie amount of movement of the "axle" in n out of the bearings - Fitted a 0.02mm shim between E clip and inside bearing and another 0.03 between outside bearing and Hex nut - feels more "solid" yet "free" (if that makes sense). There is still a slight binding if I push the Hex in fully tight - I think that cannot be solved as I think it is the inner parts of the bearings being distorted - the only solution would be to put a "sleeve" between the 2 bearings but there is not enough space inside the hub.

Oh well, it was an interesting process!

Thanks for you help guys.

zagonielod 01-05-2010 07:01 PM

"need picks?"
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by j.m. (Post 359923)
The same thing happens on my downhill longboards. If I tighten the wheelnut with no spacers, the bearings get squeezed together and bind.

I have an aluminum spacer between the bearings that only touches the inner race, this permits the wheel nut to be tightened as much as possible without binding.

I also have very small, thin washers that fit between th ewheel nut and bearing on the outside of the wheel, and the same thing between the truck and the wheel. These washers make sure that he only surface of the bearing that is contacted by a stationary surface is the inner race.

Need picks?
Jon



Yes please! :)

zagonielod 01-05-2010 07:24 PM

pics
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JezT (Post 369445)
Ok Guys,

Got my Hex nuts and fitted them - great improvement but... ever the perfectionist, still not happy with the amount of lateral movement ie amount of movement of the "axle" in n out of the bearings - Fitted a 0.02mm shim between E clip and inside bearing and another 0.03 between outside bearing and Hex nut - feels more "solid" yet "free" (if that makes sense). There is still a slight binding if I push the Hex in fully tight - I think that cannot be solved as I think it is the inner parts of the bearings being distorted - the only solution would be to put a "sleeve" between the 2 bearings but there is not enough space inside the hub.

Oh well, it was an interesting process!

Thanks for you help guys.

Sorry, could you please put some pictures here? it would be much easyer when seeing it with my eyes, as there are so many words there I don't understand :P


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