Worlds Edition 501x Build Question.
 

On step1 of the WCE edition of the 501x there is a part that says "cut this piece" when attaching the belt tensioners. What exactly has to be cut...the screw heads? This is unclear to me. Ive built plenty of tamiya kits and Im stumped here. help please:confused:

Yes, they mean the 2 screw heads. To clear the slipper pressure plate. I did´nt have to cut it.

Mine was fine without cutting as well. Should be enough clearance.

James

Thanks guys I found it kind of odd and I wanna start this build already...I already CA'd the CF pieces and are ready to go!

Yep, they don't need cutting, over time you will find the slipper plates get marked by the screw (or mine do), but it's nothing major!

ya no biggy, dont want to start dremeling screws, something always gets screwed up...literally lol.

Get a good tool set and you shouldnt need to dremel anything.
DO NOT USE THE ALLEN WRENCHES IN THE KIT!
I say this because they will wear out pretty fast and start stripping screws.
I only had to dremel screws for repairs because I was wanting to
clean my car one day and the allen wrenches started stripping screws.
I had to use a cutting blade on my dremel to make a flat spot and
remove the screw with a flat head screwdriver. I have replaced all
my super long screws with new ones since the kit came with extra screws.

Yeah these kit screws dont like allen wrenches....

I don't even use the belt tensioners... :woot:

I started the build last night and I did have to dremel the tips of those screws for the belt tensioners. If they end up a problem Ill remove them too. But when I spin the psur hear the drive train is free but it feels hard at one point in the rotation but then frees up again...any ideas as to what may be causing this?:eh?:

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just built it and theb earings are brand new....Its gotta be those belt tensioners. The diffs are smooth as hell. But I got brand new Boca Bearings and they do require a break in period so maybe its that.

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I had this problem to. For me it was the rear carbon top brace. It was rubbing against the metal slipper plate. If you push this away from the plate just before you tighten down any of the screws for the brace it should be fine.

James

Thanks for the info...but I found the culprit. It was the lower tensioner. I adjusted it in many ways and in every configuration it would rub on the slipper plates. I removed it and the drive train is very free now. I dont think its necessary to run 3 tensioners anyway. I run none on my db01 and I still have the same belts for over a year now. I kept the 2 top ones which should be fine. Unless you guys think its a must I wont reinstall it, even when the bearing was in the furthest position from the belt it would jam it all up. I checked the bearing and its fine, I dunno why it would do that.

i had this problem when i built mine, i did run 3 tensioners but actually removed a tiny amount of material from the threaded end of the tensioner.

I've never had a problem without the tensioners.

I use the tensioners, just have them not touching the belt.
If you have them touching the belt it causes binding. so when
you mount them in the car have them mounted so you can stick
a small piece of paper or cardboard through the pulley.
But dont have them touching the belt unless you want binding.
The tensioners are there for a reason, but I only use 2 instead of three.
All the tensioner does is keep the belt in the pulley.
You dont have to use them because the belts after a break-in period(maybe 2 battery runs)
are very smooth.

well I dont think theyre even necessary either. The only way the belts will skip is if you dont set the tension from the diff end correctly. Plus 3 tensioners are excessive anyways. The two top ones keep the front and rear belts in place, the bottom one is an extra one for the rear belt but in the lower position. I dont know what purpose it serves. Maybe more torque for the rear?:eh?: Who knows. I have no binding without it so IMO its not a necessity.

Which voltage regulator fits well in this kit btw? and what pinion would you guys use for a 6.5 tekin?

People have already answered you on that. 17 or 18T.

Trying to get more peoples opinions.