Reedy 5100 to big for my FS... What do I do?
 

I just received my FS and I bought last week 3 packs of Reedy 5100.

They are actually to high for the FS (I also have the Lipo weights - but they build about 1 mm). I'm thinking the only ways is to either cut the top plate, but that will make it softer. And considering the upgrade kit coming in March in Japan has a stiffer rear top plate, I'm not sure I wanna do this.

The other option is to dremmel down the battery holders and move the batteries all the way out. But Then they will problably have some room to move in..

Any ideas?

Read lots of posts about people running this car with those lipos, so I didn't think these would be a problem.

We have nearly all dremeled or cut the battery tabs.

The weight off set is minimal.
You dont have to add any weight it works perfectly fine.

I was looking at putting 6000 orion in mine but i swapped them for the 4500, these are the best sadlle packs you can get IMHO 45c and a very good price. One pack is all you need 2 maximum.

Cut the logs and move them out.

If there's a stiffer top plate then it's not been designed yet... As I was talking with shin about how to actually make one that'll be stiffer AND will accomodate lipos. There's a chassis stiffener however coming out, and a new chassis.

Yep, tabs are dremelled of on mine too..

Im using Corally 4200 35c.. they fit in fine, ive just put spacers under the kit posts to raise them up and used longer screws and it works a treat..

I have been running with extra weight in the car as have a few others.. 60g under each lipo and 60g down the center spine..

Simply to get the car back up to nimh weight.. I found the car seemed to work better as did others across the bumpy stuff, it keeps the back end planted and makes the suspension work..also helps the " loose " rear end withthe extra weight..

Indoor on carpet very smooth etc running the slipper " direct " you shouldnt need weight.. i ran with weight at the petit but have a few things to try since seeing Rich Crees, Shins and Butch's car going with this direct slipper set up the car has PLENTY of rear traction coming out of the corner.. This change should have cured the " loose " end.. for both indoor and outdoor low grip tracks..:thumbsup:

I'll confirm what im saying and if it helps at the weekend..big set up changes so a busy sunday me thinks! :woot:

Cheers

Nick

Thanks.. I cut them down and will dremmel tomorrow, and they fit. The other thing I did was I put a couple of spacers underneath the top plate. That did the trick.

What do you mean with a "direct" slipper?

However.. when you fix one thing. Here comes more trouble.
When The batteries fit, The batteryposts needs to go higher. I figured just use a spacer underneath, but then the batteryposts touch the body pretty bad. Making it stand out on the sides.

Is there a neat velcro strap or something that could help?
Didn't Losi use that some time ago?
Or will that be to loose and let the battery run free?

Your chassis, and others like it, was designed for NiMH cells with a diameter of 23mm.

The LiPo packs you are using are 28mm tall, assuming they're the same as these. Hence the problems getting the shell to fit.

I think the others who have commented are using packs that are/will be BRCA approved; and will therefore be 23mm tall (excluding any protrusions for chassis location).

I must be one of the lucky ones who have had to do no chassis mods at all, not even cutting off the little lugs! Cells are Robitronic 4600 35C and even with the lead under them there is plenty of room (ok so I did use the taller posts all round but honestly that was all that was needed!!)

I ran mine at petit with 30g of lead per side stuck to the inside of my reedy cells, seemed to work out ok. The car weighed in at about 80g over the weight limit. It should be possible to get it to work with no lead though if we soften the rear end up some.

The direct slipper will give your more punch, but it will cost you some turn in and it won't be as good accelerating over bumps. The version shin had in his car is really smart, I want one!

Anyone know where I can find editable set up sheets for these cars and I'll post my petit set ups?

Can anyone please explain what a "direct" slipper does? Is it just a really tight slipper?

I figured if I use the longest posts, and ad a small spacer underneath I'll be able to use some 2 mm carbon and make som batteryplates. That'll even make it look nicer.. :)

Basically take the slipper out and remove the forward facing bearing... you will then see a small hole.. now look down the out drive from the slipper and you will see a screw... line the head of this screw up with the hole so you can pass a pin through it (similar size pin to the wheel hex pins) now put the bearing back on (if it doesnt go over easily just file a tiny pit of the pin) job done.. Wha happens now is... you hold spur and say one rear wheel.. then turn the other rear wheel.. you will see the slipper slip and turn the front wheels... before this mod front to rear works separatley.. HTH

Cheers

Nick

You have a pm mate.. ive done my own versions of the set up sheets, with all the latest bits added on etc..

Good to hear that on the slipper side of things mate.. 7deg hubs it is.. I was running 10deg to calm it down.. too much steering... with more drive now from the rear the 7 degs should give me what i want :)

Nick

Thanks for the info about the direct slipper.

I've only started racing. But is there a good hint as to when I want to be doing this to my slipper? What should I look for in how the car responds?