bmax slipper
 

run my bmax for first time and was all going good untill final and the slipper decided to loosen itself any1 had this problem or no how to stop it doing it ?:confused:

hi buddy did you run it from straight out the box if so this will be your problem the thread lock on the slipper shaft nedds to be undone and the rebuilt and add some new thread lock then recheck the car once you ve rebuilt it cheers g

Really? I swear the slipper, with the stock threadlock is damn hard to turn! I had to fight with it to get to stock settings... So I really need to undo it clean and redo the threadlock on the threads?

after close inspection i found that it wasent the slipper, it was one of the bearings that the slipper runs on ! the bearing had collapsed not sure why tho as it was its first run from new !:confused:

Probably poorly seated or too tight!:cry: That sucks...

Hi There i had the same problem with my bmax.
see link
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22435

Well, I guess it's a good thing I can't go race and try my B-max4 for another month...:woot: It'll give me time to test just how free spinning my slipper assembly is turning with the driveshafts and pinion gear removed.

Thanks for the heads up! I had read that thread a while back, but it had slipped my mind...:thumbsup:

Raced my B-Max for the first time last night and slipper came loose in the main, drove her real easy and it was 190 deg. when I pulled it off, still won though :D

Anyway, so the best way to secure the nut is to just lock-tyte it? And how tight or loose do most people run it, is the way it says in the manual a good tightness? My local track is an indoor clay high-bite track.

Continuing on this thread (not wanting to make another one), do you guys have any tips on adjusting the slipper nut? I don't mean what setting for it (I can set it properly myself). I mean tips on how to lock the nut securely to then turn the wheels?

I must admit I find the little door and groove in the nut a very neat adjustment idea. But the groove isn't very deep to get that 2mm Hex key in there to stop it from turning! I haven't played with it much, but I'm not convinced that 2mm key is going to hold properly when I turn the wheels?

Anybody have the same oppinion/situation? And do you have any tips on how to make this adjustment easier?

Thanks in advance!:thumbsup:

^+1

Anyone have suggestions or alternatives to the lock nut? I've been trying to get mine set and locked down but it's hard to make small adjustments after I lock tight it, plus using the 2mm wrench isn't working to well, been using needle nose to turn it....I'm guessing the best way it to just get it set, pull the car off and lock tight it...got new center out-drives coming so I'll try it then.

hi all i ve had mine rebuilt by bart from abroad at petit and its working well with no thread lock at all ,,, we found out that no mater what you adjust the slipper to it still slipped but bart looked into this problem and has resolved it entirely in my eyes so if im wrong bart will more than likely advise on here too

1 strip the hole thing down and remove any excess thread lock completely
2 the slipper plates when they are put on bind with the centre pin that you put in almost to the point that it acually interferes with the slipper and stops it from tightening so ,, dremmel the edges until you find that the slipper plates go on with easy ,, its mainly around the two sides where the pin sits on one plate

3 put the adjusting nut back on and turn it all the way up and down a few times to check that it will adjust freely if there s anybinding on the thread to the nut then the nut is twisted and wont adjust properly , if this is the case replace the nut ,, mine adjust a treat now and i ve not bothered with any thread lock at all ,, check you plates don t bind with the out drives too when you sit them in postion .. were only talking about a minimal edge on the plates causing the problem here but its worked well ,,

bart if i missed anything please add you instruction s as you seem to have resolved this problem for me

adjustment im using a 5/64 hex drive and it fits better in my opinion chow for now guys

well blitz I think U gave a good explanation .
I would have wanted to do so aswell but my richting issent as good so thanks blitz

So just bare metal on metal holds enough I guess? Any idea how loose you run it, manual says to start at a turn and a half from the loosed position, that was too tight...

hahahahaha cheers barts not wrong there buddy mm as for adjustment still go by the maual guys and then see how it feels but it is easier and better

did u take any pics of mods Graham ???

sorry mike was all done at petit after practice ,, and yes i ran it all day with no problem s

No worries. Nick Caro explained it to me yesterday but its still not clear :p

I'll have it sorted before worksop this weekend. :thumbsup:

if ya get stuck buddy come and see me saturday and ill sort it for you cheers g

I tried this last night, per your suggestion, and dammit you're right! Worked much much better! I don,t know if it was because I used a full sized 5/64 wrench (with handle) instead of the small allen key, and this gave more leverage, but it definetly held much better and made adjustment possible! Thanks Blitz!:thumbsup:

Now just 1 more week till I get to try this out!:D I'm presently fitting and "decalling" the body I got back from the painters... can't wait...:thumbsup::thumbsup:

happy to help buddy get that shell done dude and get it on the track