Castle Creations Mamba Max pro Q&A
 

Hi Guys

http://www.rcracer.com/electronics/6...-mamba-max-pro

I am now running these speedos and have been very impressed, The smooth low power delivery is excellent and the spec can rival any other brand on the market in my opinion. The software is also very easy to use!

If anyone has any questions just ask

Si

I'm thinking of getting one of those. What mode are you using.

Brett

For Brushless you have two options

1. Smart Sense - This starts the motor in sensored and then one running switches to sensorless. Main advantages are nice smooth throttle response, it runs cooler due to sensorless being more efficient and generating less heat
2. Sensored Only - This is like an LRP etc in that it always runs the motor sensored so starts smooth but at fully acceleration is less efficent and generates heat. The real benefit of this mode in the Mamba Max speedo is you have a cheat mode which means at a set RPM you can change the motor timing up to 50 degrees!!. This makes your car a rocket ship!! and is a denfinate unfair advantage if running a standard spec class!

I am currently running Smart sense but if i was running to a motor limit or a stock spec class Cheat mode is the only way :thumbsup: I have run cheat mode and my car was to fast........:p

Si

i am using the mm pro with flux 5700kv sensorless motor, i just feel the binding is not there. change to my novak 7.5t sensor still does not perform like my other sensor only esc. why is it so? using it for drifting and need many sudden throttle and braking. just not as binding as novak or my lrp. Is not the lipo cause i have have tried orion35c and ip 40c and they are both new. have the latest download as well . Can you help?

I have one of these and although only ran for 1 meeting up to now, very impressed, running in xx4 with 6.5 indoors at worksop. Very smooth delivery and very adjustable. I ran in Smartsense mode and it came off with both motor and esc only luke warm.

An absolute bargain IMO if it continues to perform and is reliable.

I use an MMP with a nice Tekin T8 1400KV motor in my 1/8th scale - no problems as yet, and I always have liked Castle's products - just wish the MMM was sensored.

Mine are on the way so what settings am i running Si?

Also, does it fit better in the CR2 remember im not running a short servo until spektrum bring one out :) Chop Chop Spektrum...

Are you still using Losi motors? Or are you giving their motors a test too?

Well settings i am running so far are
Lipo cut of 3.2v per cell
Brake amount 100%
Drag break 20%
Punch control 0%
BEC 6v
Deadband - Smallest setting
Start power - low
motor timing highest 20%
Motor type - Smart sence
I am also running a positive throttle curve at the start to give more low end power, needed to make it feel like an LRP as i have spent so many years running their products.

CR2 no issue, xx4 can be a tight, i have removed the fan case and mounted the fan on the heatsink to get it under the shell.

Yes to Losi motors you will not catch me taking those out ;- ) Not had a chance to see a Castle motor yet let alone try one as i understand there maybe some new ones in the future.

But in a nut shell, the software so far i have found to be 100% reliable, the speedo's have always worked as asked and there is loads to change if you want or you can just keep it simple also. This speedo can also handle 25v for those nutters who want to make the car nutter fast!!!

Si

Si, could you post pics from the ESCs on your cars? I'd like to see how they look on a race car, not only on some alloy E-Maxx madness :p

Revsey, increase your start power setting. That way you won't need to have a positive throttle curve (or at least not as much).

On my MM, I have it set to high, and actually tune it down a bit at the beginning of the throttle curve (I'm running the castle motors that are very very "Torquy")...

Anyways, just food for thought! i,d love to get one of the MMPs with a Tekin 5.5 or 6.5T motor for 4wd... But honnestly, my MM and castkle motors just work so well for me I can't justify the expense...:)

What do you mean by 'binding'? Have you tried reducing the neutral deadband setting? One thing I've found is that the standard deadband is quite wide and I've tightened mine up to get a more positive feel around the neutral point.

Low speed driveability is simply awesome - no cogging with my Xcelorin motors in either my TC or by CR2 Buggy.

I've not yet used the CHEAT mode cos I've not got a PC to run the Castlelink software but even with the inbuilt firmware settings, the ESC is ultra smooth but very powerful also.

I'm loving it...

Will give that a go and let you know how i find it.

Cheers

Castle has got a programming card coming out, for those without PCs or laptops... I think it sells for 30$ US... Don't know if it sets everything on the ESC, but definetly usefull for trackside adjustments...

Thanks for the info Codman.
I may wait to see what the card can offer but TBH, this ESC is sooo good that I've been considering buying a netbook just to run the software on it.

I know what you mean (although running a regular MM). Everytime I go racing, I borow the offices laptop for trackside...;)

I am a bit confused about the punch control, start power and then throttle curve (whether one overrides the other). I had mine on 20% punch, low start power (because it said in the help section this was best all round) and then linear throttle. It was very smooth but there did seem to be a slight lag on the initial throttle, not sure if this is down to the deadband which i had left at default (0.1 sec I think). I guess it's just a bit of trial and error until it feels right. Useful to hear these views though.

The punch is what limits the starting power so if you have 20% punch then it will limit the punch by 20%.

If the punch limits the punch, ie start power then what does the start power limit?!:D

Chris

surely the punch limmits the curent (AKA the severaty of the motor) at any point in the throttle range where as the start power will change how the motor peforms from a standstill or verry slow speeds

Start power is the amount of power the controller sends to the motor when it is stationary. Because the controller doesn't have any feedback from the motor when it isn't turning, it sends a fixed amount of power which is defined in the start power setting. The only reason to increase the start power setting is if there is cogging when starting from a standstill. In other cases it should be as low as possible.

The punch control limits the power at all times but it usually makes a difference in the lower rev range where the motor's torque is high.

Avner.