Couple of questions regarding the 511....
 

Hi guys!

Just bought a very nice used 511 roller! I have read most of the threads regarding the car, but still have a couple unanswered questions. 1. What is the biggest pinion gear (# of teeth) you can fit in the car? 2. I didn't receive the 15 tooth pinion supplied in the kit, but I can tell from pictures that it is longer than normal... Does anyone know if tamiya's other pinion are long like that, specifically the 17-19 tooth. 3. Can anyone confirm that the 501 we body and undertray are a direct fit for the 511 chassis? 4. I think I read that Jimmy is running standard pinion gears on bl motors with only a small bit of the pinion touching the spur...anyone have a picture example of this??

Any info would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks in advance,
mike

The 501 body will fit but it does not leave much room for brushless motors. Get the WE edition if you can as this has an extra bulge for the sensor wire.

The tamiya pinions meant for the car are all long allowing full contact with the spur. Partial contact is asking for trouble. The tamiya part numbers you need are:

54062 (13T, 14T & 15T)
53964 (16T & 17T)
53965 (18T & 19T)
53966 (20T & 21T)

With regards to space the is more than enough for any pinion that would be realistically used in the 501 so the 511 will be the same.

James

Hi Mike, I use the 501x shell and undertray on the 511 no probs,you can use a standard 48dp pinion on the 511 but it is on the end of the motor shaft on a novak brushless but it does reach the centre of the spur gear no probs, a good trick is to use a 87t spur gear from associated it's a direct fit and easier to get hold of at a race meeting and is a better fit on the layshaft.For a 6.5t motor I use a 19t pinion on the 87t spur on lipo, hope this helps;)

Wow, thats a high gearing. I use a 96t Spur, a 17t pinion and a 6.5 x12 with 40c lipo and it doesn't get beaten down the straight. Do you have any probs with over heating? My motor comes off at about 60 deg c and uses about 2000ma per 5 min run, and thats giving it some hammer :lol:.

With a 6.5T motor you probably want about a 10.5 overall gear ratio. 96/17 gives you 11.5 and 87/21 gives you 8.5.

One a little high the other a little low. Of course driving style and circuit will make a small difference. With an 87 spur I would have gone for a 17 pinion and for a 96 spur an 18 or 19 pinion.

James

Sorry it's a 19t pinion(overall ratio of 1:9.43, 21t pinion on my x6:lol:), should have checked first, no problems overheating and I don't think I'am mega smooth, I use about 1700-1800ma out of ib4200 30c+ lipo's at bury indoor and as I know you go there I'am 9th overall at the minute with my 511, so yes I do know my way round a tamiya( I only wrote the last part as you don't know who is giving you good or bad advise by just your user name unless you know them:))

I was just curious about the gear ratio, I thought about gearing mine up to take some of the snap out of it but I don't want to end up killing the motor when its already fast. My gear ratios are genearally higher than everyone else but I thought if yours was running ok with a 21t/87t combo then mine was way out but if its really a 19 then I'm not miles out like I thought.

I had a really bad meeting with the 501 this time, smashed a wishbone in practice then had a random power fail in three of the four races (turned out to be the deans). I'm having handling issues too, mid corner the car wants to spin when power is applied but my DB01 is setup exactly the same and doesn't do it. Its really annoying. It was fine at the players.

I'm having handling issues too, mid corner the car wants to spin when power is applied but my DB01 is setup exactly the same and doesn't do it. Its really annoying. It was fine at the players.[/QUOTE]


sounds like it's going to be something odd:confused: have you stripped the car down and checked everything? I once had a noise like the belt jumpin on the 511 and it turn out to be a cracked thrust race, yet the diff felt really smooth.

The only other thing I think it could be is that there's too much lean on the rear mid corner and its unloading the front inside tyre which is spinning up and making it so all the power is going to the rear which then causes it to loose traction and spin out. I'm running the Blue springs at the front and reds at the back so I might try yellows at the back instead.

I run blue front and yellow rear at bury, maybe try removing any droop limiters if you run any as well.

Thanks for all the help guys! I checked the car last night and it has an 81 tooth associated spur installed. So I guess somewhere in the 17 tooth range for pinion sounds right? I will be using a novak 6.5, and running nimh. Any oddball spares that are a must for this car? Want to try and get all the stuff I think I will need in one shot.

Thanks,
Mike

Plenty of diff rings, they're a bit crummy. Cheap though. I use ceramic balls myself.

The usual breakage stuff like arms, hubs, knuckles etc.

Here is a video of where I run here in the states, vid quality isn't the greatest.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1fXm...=youtube_gdata

Use tungsten carbide diff balls and the plates will last ages, ceramic is too hard;)

That doesn't make sense:eh?:.

That suggests that both the plates and balls are wearing rather than just the plates. Just because the balls are harder should not mean that the plates will wear out sooner.

James

????? if the balls are harder then the plates wear quicker, tungsten carbide balls don't wear a great deal but plates do as they are the weaker metal, so if you use a harder ball then it will wear the plates quicker.

Ceramics do wear out the rings yes, but they last a lifetime, is smoother than tungsten and the rings are cheap. In my world, thats a no brainer.

If both the tungsten and carbide balls are hard enough that they don't wear then the plates will wear at the same rate. For the plates not to wear as much with the tungsten then the balls would take up some of that wear. If the balls are wearing that can only be a bad thing as the next set of plates will wear even faster and will never be a smooth due to the wear on the balls.

James

well with the ceramic ones in my plates lasted about 2 months, with tungsten they last about one year, the ceramic is only smoother when you first rebuild the diff not after the car has been run a couple of times, so does not seem to be a no brainer to me.....

wrong.....if you use tungsten balls when you come to change the plates they will have a wear ring all the way round, when I used the ceramic balls the diff ring was ripped to bits not a nice even wear ring and there was a lot of metal bits in the pulley....... if you dont belive me try it yourself and see or give these people a ring they will be able to explain it in more detail, I got the tungsten balls off them and explained what they were used for and they will tell you to use tungsten carbide not ceramic and they are a proper aircraft quality ball bearing manufacturer:

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