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ashleyb4 05-05-2007 08:49 PM

Tricks and Tips
 
Hi

Can someone give me some advise on the best ways of building your cvd's? I normally build them then glue the grub screw in place. But recently i replaced my cvd's as they where worn. So i built them like i normally do but they have fallen apart twice. I have bought a new rebuild kit. Someone suggested filing the pin a bit so that there is a flat spot for the screw to grip onto. What are your thoughts on this??? Or and other ways i could do it??

A:confused:

Lee 05-05-2007 08:53 PM

I hope you mean thread lock ash?

I just build mine as the manual states and use a decent thread lock and they have been fine.

jimmy 05-05-2007 08:55 PM

put some heat shrink around the CVD - you won't have to worry ever again.

DNC 05-05-2007 08:56 PM

Try rebuilding them as per the manual, then put a small lenth of heat shrink over them!!
Stops the pin flying out!!

ashleyb4 05-05-2007 09:26 PM

I build them buy the manual but glue the screw in. Ill proberly try again but file a small amount off the pin. Thanks.

A

jimmy 05-05-2007 09:35 PM

Or you could just ignore us all :D

I've never ground the pin and I don't think you need to - but if you want to then go for it. I assume your pin is moving whilst the grub screw isn't backing out, in which case perhaps you need to tighten the grub screw more in the first place?:confused:

PaulRotheram 05-05-2007 09:42 PM

the thread is probably clogged full of crap glue residue.. never use glue in areas like that, and always follow the instructions.. always - they are there for a reason.

take them apart, spray the lot with motorspray, leave it for a few minutes and make sure everything is dry. clean the grub screw up - better yet, use a new one! apply threadlock, screw in and leave for as long as possible before running the car again.

ashleyb4 05-05-2007 09:52 PM

Im not ignoring you all i do apreciate all the help but i tried heatshrinking them but the heat shink just kept moving. So i will try rebuilding them as the allen driver i used wasnt in 100% good nick so i have a new one now. And i also have a new rebuild kit.

A

lud 05-05-2007 09:55 PM

normally heatshrink is that tight, you donīt even need the screw.

Col 05-05-2007 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashleyb4 (Post 37663)
i tried heatshrinking them but the heat shink just kept moving.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lud (Post 37665)
normally heatshrink is that tight...

If the heatshrink is not tight, then it's too big to begin with. Try a smaller/thinner piece.

mattym0310 06-05-2007 08:20 AM

ash, why dont you listen to what everyone has told you, i dont know whether you noticed almost all the people on this thread have said, threadlock not glue, so why not try it?? its what the instructions say, people have just said they dont have problems with it and never have. there is no point in asking if your not going to take in what people suggest.

bert digler 06-05-2007 08:39 AM

:D
Quote:

Originally Posted by mattym0310 (Post 37681)
ash, why dont you listen to what everyone has told you, i dont know whether you noticed almost all the people on this thread have said, threadlock not glue, so why not try it?? its what the instructions say, people have just said they dont have problems with it and never have. there is no point in asking if your not going to take in what people suggest.

u cud braise em up

ashleyb4 06-05-2007 09:58 AM

I tried Tamiya and AE threadlock and they just didnt work. So i was suggested super glue by someone. And it worked the pin still hasnt fallen out and there over a year old. And also im reluctant to use heat shrink cus i have nice shiny silver cvd bones and heat shrink would make them un pretty.

A


P.S. Thanks for all the help.

super__dan 06-05-2007 10:10 AM

Ash your original posts implies your CVD's have fallen apart twice recently so you've bought a rebuild kit, hence the confusion.

I too used to have this problem and also tried super glue, the trouble is it sets almost instantly as you're putting the grub screw in. Threadlock is ultimatly stronger but also sets slower so you can get the grub screw all the way in before it sets. I do often find the stuff you get with the MIP's a bit poor, if you get a little bottle it will last you forever.

Grinding a flat on the pin also works well, but make sure you orientate the pin so the grub screw bites on the flat when you assemble, easier said than done ;)

Lastly loads of people use the heat shrink thing but it always falls off for me too, perhaps a blob of glue on that wouldn't hurt?

ashleyb4 06-05-2007 10:15 AM

Im getting confused to dan. I think my main prolem was that i didnt have a great allen driver at the time. So i now have a new tip on the way so i will try rebuilding them again.But the screw seemed to go all the way. And when i built them i tried pushing the pin out and it wouldnt budge but then when im racing it comes out. Odd

A

PaulRotheram 06-05-2007 06:11 PM

it isnt odd, the supplied L shaped allen wrenches are poor.. you need good quality wrenches, especially the .50 ones.

ashleyb4 06-05-2007 06:26 PM

Oh i havent got cheap L shaped allen drivers then went ages ago ive got integy ti-nitrade tip allen drivers. Top tools but the tiny one i dropped and it has a chip out the corner of the hex so i have ordered a new one. I hate annoying little cheap tools you get with kits.

A

RLGfx 09-05-2007 08:48 PM

i don't even use threadlock or heatshrink or anything, just use a decent allen driver, and lean on it a bit. never had a cvd come apart as yet, at least not since i had my mx4.
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and yes, everyone is welcome to laugh when both cvds fall to bits in the first round at the oswestry regional...:rolleyes:

matdodd 09-05-2007 09:07 PM

Its going to be so cool :D


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