No tension spring in diff
 

I've just put the steel shafts on the front of the ZX-5(RTR), and I've noticed there's no tension spring in there. I've not looked at the rear, but I assume it'll be the same.

Is this something I should be worried about? Especially since the RTR exploded view shows there should be one in there.

spring
 

i think were gona have to rename you the MAN WITH A MILLION QUESTIONS lol.yes mate your gonna need that spring in there

arrggggh bloody hell, why wasn't there one in?

I have a feeling that the screw through the front diff isn't long enough to fit a spring on the end either. I'll probably need to order the screw as well. FFS!

EDIT: Shouldn't need to order the screw, but £4 for a spring! By the time I order 2 springs and get them delivered that's gonna be a tenner!

Do yourself a favour and download a ZX5 manual from kyosho.com and then find the set-up guide put together by elvo, for buggies, Type Buggy set-up guide in google and look for the 1 with pandora and elvo in the http addy

HTH SimonW

p.s If you look around on here(search the threads) there will be a link to it on here in a few places. Between those two things most of your questions will be answered.

you would need to have the diff apart to see the spring, with the drive shafts out, you should have the head of the bolt one side and the retained nut the other, should be possible to adjust the diff by turning the bolt with a hex driver and locking the other side of the diff, unless I am totaly misunderstanding you, do you have access to the manual. (I am basing this the original kit, but would expect the rtr to be the same in these respects)

edit, just spotted Simon's post, think there is a link to the manual from jimmies original review in that section
http://www.oople.com/rc/manuals/zx5/

I've got the manual and got the diff completely apart, there simply isn't a spring in there.

I kind of assumed there should have been a spring in there, but I wanted to ask on here to find out incase there was some secret reason for not having one. Both the exploded view and the manual says there should be a spring.

I'll get one ordered and hope that's there's one in the rear.

http://users.telenet.be/elvo/ go here and read, melts your brain a bit but it is very helpful.

Good news, I've gone into the office today and has another look at the old plastic shafts, and there's a spring wedged inside. I couldn't see if last night due to using the lights in the office, but with natural light I could see if.

Phew.

where are you based mate? Might be worth going to a local club and speaking to a few people .. somebody there is bound to have experience with the ZX5

I was just about to reply to you to check that exact thing.

School boy error lots to learn in the world of RC :) :)

It wasn't school boy error, it was bad light...honest.

No, honestly I was working under florescent lighting last night and couldn't really see into the shaft.

RogerM, I'm based in the North East and I already have a club that I go to, it's just I've not been for a few month and it's not been on for a couple of weeks, hence the reason I've been posting on here alot.

I've managed the get the front diff all put back together fairly easily (as per the manual). Still the rear diff to do.

Well done littlened, make sure the diffs are bushed tighter than the manual, see jimmies original review, stripping the diff gears was a major problem for some racers.

Look at post 3 on this thread for a fool proof way of doing it!!!!

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...highlight=diff

Thanks for all the tips guys.

I opened the diffs again to check the shimming, and they seems fine as they were.

One problem though, the front diff had come completely apart, would this just have been a case of me not tightening it enough?

I followed this page of the manual
http://www.oople.com/rc/manuals/zx5/...s/zx50006.html

but I got a little confused by what it says. It says to use two screwdrivers to lock the two shafts, then move the gear, then tighten the nut and repeat. It says it should be tight, when it means tight does it mean you shouldn't be able to move the gear, or does it mean you should be able to move the gear but it should be difficult to move?

The later ... it should move if given a good turn but it should be solid between finger and thumb.
It should also feel free when spun as a diff, not grinding or tight spots.

I find it easier to check diffs with the slots in the outdrives on an old pair of scissors as they are held firm and you still have a free hand .... other people have made a tool up out of metal or fiberglass to lock the outdrives together.