problem with LAW34 install...
 

i have installed the LAW34 kit.

Rear hubs and rear arms.

however at full droop and around 2deg camber, the new shorter uni drive shafts (62.5mm) are about 1.5mm too short, only 3/4 of the bone it is inside the diff shaft, and thus risks popping out

i tried using the old version rear universal shaft (65.5mm), however that is a 1.5mm's too long.

anyone else notice this??

also at the end of the install i notice i was missing 1 rear shock shaft.

this is the second time a part has been left out of my kit.

someone at kyosho's production line must be having a nap

I hope Jim won't be reading this but i have installed the conversion to both of my cars, never had the problem, the only reason i can see this happening is if you have used the origanol hubs or wish bones.

the off set on the new style hubs is very differant,

could you post a picture??

Again, never had any parts missing myself, but not to worry. I know there is not a problem with the conversion so i think you have built something wrongly.

i've definitly used new rear arms and new rear hubs, the new rear hubs only got 2 holes on top.... i've used everything in the packet except for the rear shock shafts and the front arms, where there hasnt been any changes.

the problem is more prominet in the battery side. the motor side is barely ok

this is a pic of the motor side which is useable (just)

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...1/Image143.jpg


on the battery side, i have gone with the old 65.5mm shaft and shaved down the end of the bone a bit.

You have used the right parts, but when you put the shock shafts did you put the down stops on the shafts, looks like you might have left them out.

the new rear end uses 2 mm limiters the old one used 3-4mm without these the wishbones droop too far and the shafts fall out....

pro4nut, can you tell me what the benefits of this conversion are?

I've not gone down the conversion route yet, but anything to go faster would be nice.

It provides longer front shock shafts, which give you the droop increase a lot of the team drivers gained last year by fitting a modified ball end to the front shocks. About a 2mm gain.

The rear end mod as i see it reduces the rate of camber change of the rear wheels over bumps, this makes the back end of the car less 'skitty' over the rough stuff.

The redesigned shock bottoms in the modded kit don't leak, what more needs saying?

Oh quick tip though, make sure you use 2mm of spacers under the ball stud on the rear hub if you use the outer hole otherwise when you hit a big bump the hub will push the ball cup off, proper comedy like...

public forum, fatal! so you have a second ZX5? hmmm, i'll e-mail you! :D

quick question, does the NEW rear suspension arm, now require a spacer (around 0.5mm) between the arm and the suspension block. because mine has a lot of slack without it.

putting the spacer at the rear would shorten the wheelbase (lenghtwise),

would it decrease stability, as the car is shorter, or would also increase rear traction as the weight is now more towards the rear.

I hope i understand you right, if you mean should you put a thin spacer on the inner hingpin then yes you should, put this on in front of the wishbone, with the nose of the car facing forward.

if this is not what you mean take a picture using muchos zoomage

i previosly needed shims in the same area. but only like 0.1mm metal shims.

now on this new suspension it seems i need like a 0.5mm plastic shim.

i put the plastic spacer in the rear (marked pink in the picture) which shortens the wheelbase, puts more rear weight on the back as the rear wheels are closer towards the center of the car.

what is a wishbone?


http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w.../Image142a.jpg

they are found in chickens.

http://www.besenarts.com/Newsletter/wishbone.jpg

A wishbone is what i realise you call a suspension arm, do you call anti-roll bars sway bars as well??

Just put the spacer on the other end of the pin not the one you have put it on.

I use one associated clear shim, which is 1.3mm.

Can i also suggest you use the delrin pivot balls rather than the black kits ones as they are less prone to binding

Also noticed the gap between your spring cup and spring, there lies the reason why you think the drive shafts are too short i think. put some limiters in the shocks and the problem will disappear

ok thanks for info.

i use derilin balls.. and yes "roll bar", "anti-roll bar" and "sway bar" are all used here.

I run this conversion too. the rear end seems far more stable over rough surfaces and through flat out corners. :) A few people have tried this conversion at teesside club and didnt like it, said it made the car too twitchy. But it works well with my set up. As a little side note i found the shock shafts in the conversion were exactly the same size as standard?!?!?! i thought they were meant to be longer:confused: anyway other than that its fine.

its definitly longer. about 3mm. i compared them when building.

edit. fronts are longer, rears are unchanged

Hey Guys,

I have noticed on my install that the rear drive shafts run close to the end of the outdrive at full lift, have yet to test it so cant say if i'll have any trouble. If I do have problems, threading the shock ends on a 1-2 more turns should fix the problem.

I found that the front stayed at the same height, so I added 2-3 mm longer shock ends and found it increased the front height by around 5mm. The back of the car gained about 5mm with the LAW34 kit.

Hope this helps
omen1975