Novak issues
 

Hi all
I've got a novak gtb with 5.5r motor fitted in my b44 and i got a few issues with it that I can't seem to solve, was wondering if anyone could help

1.The motor seems to intermittently cut out and will only start when it is turned on and off again. This has only started happening recently. I think it could be a sensor wire issue, can these be changed or does the whole motor need replacing? Is there anything else it could be?

2. When the motor did work i struggled to finish a 5 minute run as the speedo kept thermalling even though i drove it really smoothly. I managed to blow the speedo up today and fitted a spare but still have the same problem. The car is geared correctlyish and there is plenty of air flow so i can't work out what the problem is! Any ideas?

Cheers in advance

Define geared corectlyish ??

The ratio is 10.00 I've been told but i geared it one tooth up then one down just to see if that cured it but had exactly the same problem

What pinion are you using on the B44? Should be around an 18t?

20 tooth on an 84 spur, had a 19 tooth on for a while but got told to go up one

anyone got any ideas?

Sounds like your motors dying, possibly the rotor magnetism going off. Is it a bonded or sintered rotor?

That said, I've never, ever seen you drive smoothly ;)

lol smoothly ish. Its a sintered motor i think a 5.5R is sintered isn't it?

I'm pretty sure it is siintered rotors in the ribbed can and bonded in the smoth can.. I have re-made connections to the sensor, but it is a bit fiddley if this is what you need to do, but you'll need a good fine tipped ironn, preferably temp controlled to ensure you don't muck it all up. I have had a motor with similar characteristics and the sensor wire was the reason, it was obvious though as the wire was in two bits :cry: You can see for yourself here - http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...spec_chart.htm

cheers mate, if i took the motor apart would it be obvious if something was wrong? By the sounds of it looks like ill need a new one :cry:

I'm guessing that the questions being asked regarding the rotor are heading towards seeing if it's de-bonded or simply disintergrated, normally due to free reving, but if it rotates freely, could well be sensor or harness related. They're a bit un-nerving to take apart as the it's not clear what wil come away from the end bell and what will not. But if there is no visible sensor wire damage then you will need to take it apart to check continuity on each wire. From memory you have to remove the black back plate and the sensor ring, then de-solder the field windings from the pcb. You can then get to the sensorand it's pcb...

Also, de-solder the motor from your speed controller, and if you have a multimeter, check the resistance across each of the field windings. I don't know what vaue you should get, but they should all read the same unless there is problems with them.

Most 'flat' cans are bonded but not all, the last ones were sintered. However all ribbed cans are sintered! If you turn the output shaft by hand if it noticably flicks from the pole to pole as you turn it it's sintered, if it feels like there is no resistance it's bonded or knackered.

I have heard of rotors debonded, in fact Tom has done it once but in that case there was no drive at all.

I'd take it apart and check it all over then idelaly try swapping the rotor. I have a used one you could try but no idea when I'll see you next?

Its also worth having a look at your power cap. I don't know if you changed this when you changed your speedo. If it is slightly dented it can short slightly, ie have a high but finite DC resistance and cause the speedo to overheat. Also if it has thermalled there is a chance that some of the circuit mount components on the power cap have died as these are fairly fragile.