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X-Factory
(http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16)
camber link where and why
Hello X factory boyos
right question for you guys as you run the b4 front end and most fo you live in the uk and are online more than the AE boys id like some help why do you mount your camber link outside hole outbored and outside hole inbored? b4 lads most of the time run it inside hole outbored and inside hole inbored what is the diffrence in the two? much love Millzy |
You have to remember the weight and ballance is differant. If I remember correctly, a longer link will slow response and allow for less roll.
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if memory serves me right, it gives you alittle less going in to the corner and a little more coming out,
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From the B4 setup manual ;)
• Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger away corner entry steering and add exit steering.step than adjusting the ball end height on the tower. (Adding spacers under the tower’s ball ends lengthens the camber link.) • Longer camber links are typically used on high grip tracks, fig. 2. The inside (longer) camber position is the standard position and works best at most tracks. • Shorter links tend to work better on medium-grip, loose dirt tracks, fig. 3. • Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball end) will tend to give more corner entry steering and take away mid to exit steering. • Shortening the camber link (or lowering the ball end) will take |
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Dude i have the manual- thats all good but it dose not stage the diffrence in runnig outer/ outer and inner /inner the link is the same size on each of those set ups but it must do somthing diffrent |
Must be to do with leverage then because you are changing the pivot point. What we need is a factory driver to explain :D
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your not actually changing the length,just moving them both out,it keeps the tires flatter less camber change,we also add 2-3 washers under the inside link to raise it even more. on certain tracks,
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but for now lion o is all we got :):):) |
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Originally Posted by Wookie (on rc10b4.com)
This changes "Where" in the suspension travel the camber starts to change. When the camber link pivot points are close to the A-arm pivot points there is a very steady and linier change of camber as the suspension is compressed. This gives the car a very neutral and non-speed sensitive handling characteristics. When the camber link pivot pints are further away from the A-arm pivot points this makes the camber change more dramatically at the start of the suspension compression or at the end. This makes the car more finicky on corner entry and exit speed and can be harder to drive if you don't enter and or exit the corners at the same speed lap after lap. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- To answer your question about 2-b verses 1-A, it all comes down to how you like it to feel. If you like your steering twitchy as you come into the corner and pushy as you exit, run 1-A. If you like your car more forgiving as you enter the corner but more steering as you exit, then run 2-B. I almost always use the "B" hole on the caster block as it provides the most consistant steering in, through, and out of the corners........... As for your setup you can also try adding 1 OZ of weight to the rear of the chassis to make it more predictable in the bumpy stuff. |
Ive always wondered this, as it isn't a change of length or a change of angle - so in theory I cant see it making any difference.
I was also one who used this setup on my X-6, and if im honest, never felt any difference. I just nodded my head and acted numb to this one without ever really being convincved it made any difference anywhere. LOL |
Millzy, just change one side of your B4. Make sure all links are set dead right so camber is 0degree at wishbones level, then put a bag of sugar on the front end and remeasure the camber at squat..... let us know...
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It is a slight change in length, get your verniers out boys ;)
I'm sure there is some highly technical reason why, but at the end of the day Mills just try it. On a B4 I suspect you'll prefer the 1/A option as it is a little more forgiving on the big pendulum you've got following you around the track :D |
But i dont want to try it lol- i want to know what it dose
Jay and i have both been runnig the 1-b ( longest link) right now somthing ive never really done- i do have a spare set of turnbuckles set up for 1-a but im sure i can find another set to make up to 2-b and do some more testing. |
1-a and 2-b are almost identicle length, only about 1mm in it. You would use the same turnbuckle for both.
1-b will give you max steering but with the least amount of turn in. 2-a will give you the most amount of turn in with the least amount of steering 1-a and 2-b are in between and almost the same, I find 2-b gives you more precise feel than 1-a, but 2-b can snatch if you force the car to oversteer. Good for a mid motor, bad for a rear motor (unless you have Matrix like reflexs) You really need to try it and see which suits you, but I would think 1-a would suit a B4 better. I always ran my B4 1-b. |
now thats the answer i wanted - thank you not under the thumb one ( rear your post ya bugger on the micro forum)
I find with 1-b the car has a more controlled feel going in- and alows me to pivot the car on the brakes with out snatching or the rear steping out like a single katie price |
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when's the last time you had sex? |
ask your mum how long shes been waiting to sit down and youll know
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