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Team Associated
(http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=24)
SC10 diffs........
After racing our SC10's for the first time at club last night we all noticed one major major problem. The gear diffs don't last. Even after one heat a clicking noise could be hear and got worse and worse until in the final it was completely shot. This was racing indoors on carpet, whereas on dirt they don't seem to have a problem. (correct me if i'm wrong with this)
It happened to all three cars that raced last night. So firstly I would recomend when building it put a ball diff in straight away. Apart from the diff all I can say is what a truck!!!! So much fun to drive with loads of body roll. plus they look awesome with the huge body shells and door-to-door racing. kal |
Really interesting is this !
I was actually interested in replacing ball-diff of my B4 by a SC10 gear-diff to get rid of maintenance ! What are they made of ? plastic I have a 20year old kyosho gear-diff that took extreme torque without any sign of wear after several runs (when the B4 ball-diff needed new rings & balls) |
It's all metal, just took mine apart and one of the lunar gears was shot, not a single tooth left :( :(
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This is a Known Problem guys... It's on AE's Forum.
Here you go, the Official AE Response http://www.aeforums.co.uk/forum/inde...showtopic=4907 Have a look around there as well, there's some other stuff about the Diff. I've not run mine properly yet as i was waiting till i'd taken the Pics of it... :lol: |
Hmm, after building mine ( I haven't run it yet ) it seems really, notchy.
Could be that I'm just not used to building geared diffs after many years of ball diffs. But it doesn't seem too smooth, and I don't remember any of the GD's in the past being this notchy. I've taken it to bits 3/4 times now, just to make sure everything is together right....and it is. This is the only bit of the car that concerns me so far. Any tips? Anyone have any idea the thickness of the extra shims that AE are providing? |
Might the problems be solved by adding some extra o-rings to the outdrives? It should put more pressure on the diff from the outside.:confused:
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All my Kyosho Mid Gear Diff have been free from day 1. Delivered 100s Watts power over more than 1 hundreds of batt packs over the past 20years.
There are still like day 1 when unassembled. If a gear diff feels notchy, don't run the car like that, it may heat and detroy itself... That's my take on it... |
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I don't think the 'Kits' come with the extra shims, but I believe CML will give you 2 shims if you ask them (associated USA certainly, are so I would think CML will follow suit) You need 4 shims inside the diff in total, 2 on each side. |
agree with Craig there, plus you need plenty of lube (grease or oil).
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Rebuilt my RTR with the supplied extra shims and now its smooth as silk. Its taking all I can throw at it with a 7.5 X12 motor and lipo. Fantastic fun these!:thumbsup:
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my sc10 kit was one of the first from mkracing and i have replace the black grease with 1000 wieght diff oil and i have not had any problems with the shims
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Ball Diff ?
Anyone thought of putting a T4 ball diff in ??
Also are any of you SC10 runners using MIP CVD's |
three of ran (and wrecked) them the sat night at ozwestry. Bloody great fun in std form. 1 rtr and 2 kit versions.
I think pidge and harris will agree:thumbsup: Whens the next sc10 bash going down guys? |
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