possible slow tc5 problem
 

My tc5 has an lrp sphere in it with a 13.5 brushless novak with a sinterd rotor.

I have tried numerous gearing combinations but no matter what other 13.5 cars always out drag me on the straight, its not the batteries as I've tried several difrent lipo packs, I'm wondering if I need to put the gtb out of my b4 in there to get more oomph, do novak motors work better with novak speedos or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Hi, we recently started allowing brushless 13.5 at our club too. Have you gone up a few teeth on your pinion? I found I had to go up about 5 teeth! Just keep an eye on your temperature. If you gear too high the motor will get hot.

I run a Novak esc with a Losi motor, as long as you run a sensored motor you should be fine.

It may be worth checking the setup on the esc and possibly reset to factory.

Have you checked the end point adjustment on your transmitter? If that's less than 100%, that won't help.

Good luck

have reset the speedo ( I dont think it was set to top wack) and also had a look at gearing again, will see next week.

OUT OF CURIOSITY WHAT FDR DO YOU HAVE ON YOUR TC5?

I was told it was 2

and thats what I use for the ratio calculations ( spur pinion etc )

YOU WILL HAVE SERIOUS PROBLEMS IF YOUR FDR IS 2:lol:

you want to aim for a fdr of about 5.9 to 6.3

tc5 speed
 

make sure your gearing is right, if you are running the standard 87spur you'll want a huge pinion like 27 28+, when i ran the 5 i used a 78 spur

internal ratio is 2

FDR = spur/pinion *2

Just so everyone knows
FDR = Final Drive Ratio as quoted
MMPR = millimetres per revolution used for foam tyres

Hi Giles
I have just replaced the 415 with a TC5 and have been asking Kev for some advice with gearing options, he recommended a 32t pinion with and 87t spur gear for a sintered rotor

Matt

Hi guys


Just noticed this thread, hopefully I can help out a little....

Been running a TC5 for about a year now, with LRP TC Spec speedo and the Novak 13.5 motor.

Firstly - Speedo settings - make sure you set the punch level to a high number. I almost always use 8 (which is the highest) - only change down to 7 if the track is really low grip or very small. Also you generally don't want wither of the brake settings to be higher than 1. I run 1,1 on indoor tracks and 0,0 on bigger outdoor tracks.

Motor Settings - I tend to leave the timing as it comes, or set it to about half way between the factory setting and maximum.

Gearing - It really depends on track size, but as a rough starting point:
Straight length around 40m (average outdoor track)- 4.8 FDR
Straight length around 20m (med sized indoor track)- 5.5 FDR

If you let me know your actual track size I'll be able to give a more definate answer on gearing.

Hope that helps
Oli

I run a 10.5T Novak SS which over a 5 min run on an outdoor asphalt track was about right at somewhere around 4.7-4.8.

The guys in 13.5T at our club run around 4 FDR.

Although, I've recently swapped to a Tekin Redline which doesn't seem to have as much punch, but I'm not as often outrun on the straight and the brakes seem stronger.