Ford Focus clicking noise in steering wheel column + idle revs
 

Im hoping someone can help me here....

When i turn left or right at any speed there is a clicking noise coming from the steering wheel, it did stop for a bit but is now just persistent. Any ideas from cars folk?

Also another problem. When i put the air con on, or light, or heater the revs drop below idle and it almost stalls, it's done it for as long as ive driven it and it's really annoying. When you have the lights on they dim and then come back and the heater only blows properly when you have the revs above idle.

Please only post if you have any recommendations.

Many Thanks

For the revs dropping, it would be either a dieing battery or alternator. Kwik fit tend to do free battery and alternator tests.

As for the clicking, that'll be something different. Mark Christopher would be the best to ask on that one I reckon. ;)

Cool, i was thinking alternator too but didn't fancy the bill :lol: If it's free tests ill go see them, cheers dude.

at a guess, I would say, more a weak battery than an alternator, unless you got a seak turnover in the morning. You can do a quick test with a multimeter, set to DCV across the battery terminal, not to sure on the ford, but between 13.5 and 14.5 is a good reading, above or below that isn't good.

Clicking noise is for Mr Christopher.

It's never failed to start quickly and first time though so i didn't think that, but i have a meter i can test it with. I take it i need to do it running to get that kind of voltage, dont wanna blow my meter. :p

yes, running. It could be your alternator, if it is struggling under load, but you can also get a load test done on the 12V too. The revs should drop when you put a heavy electrical drain (lights etc) or mechanical drain (air con) but the ecu should pick up the drop in revs and compensate........

does it click when the steering wheel is turning, or when turning a constant corner (ie steering wheel not moving, but not centred)?
Also do the indicators self cancel?

Agreed, on our old Focus the revs would drop for an instant, then pick up as the car increased them to cope.

G

It only clicks when turning the wheel, not during a corner.
Yep, everything else works properly.

as col

does the noise occur when stationary and turning the wheel, if it sounds like its behind/in the steering wheel, could well be the clock spring (wheel off and new one) clock spring is actually the air bag connector that lets the wheel turn and keep the connector, if its a clicking noise pulling out of a junction etc could be one of your cv joints

as for low idle could be numerous things

air leak on engine (can you hear any sucking with engine running and bonnet open?
idle valve sticking (though will normally idle undershoot and cut out)
pcm calibration ( early focus had a re cal to fix this, dealer only unless you know somone in ford dealer)

as for voltage check

focus has smart charge and will go up to 15 volts, not a normal alternater and krapfit normally diag them wrong then send em to the dealer or take your money and run.

to do a volt test use the cars dash;)

ignition off, hold the trip reset button in, ignition on and wait for it to sat test, then release button and press/release to change functions one will say BAT thats your bat voltage should be around 11 with ignition on, start key without keying off and should be around 14 with headlamps and heated screen on.
there are other functions in that test, bulbs, lcd, digital rpm etc, even dtc but ignore those there for manufacture/plant.
key off will turn it back to std dash

I would expect that too, but they drop so low that you can feel it about to stall, although it never does. Ive never had a car which lights dim or blowers go from full to about nothing coming out.

ok check bottom of colum, make sure there is nothing catching it
take off the top columb cowel and unclip indicater stalk, take it off, if noise still there as my previous post, clock spring

can be changed easy, no need to disconect batt, we never do for air bag repairs, just dont spin it or the wheel when removing or fitting

id go for pcm update at first thoughts, if its ok if you control idle near 1000 rpm
if you goto dealer ask for pcm update check, and kam reset (keep alive memory) as that stores idle values, reset it and it will load base values then relearn.

long time old focus for me now but im 99% sure if you disconect the battery for 10 mins the kam will reset, you will need radio code, if you dont have that and can get radio out i can get the code for you foc, let me know so u can call me if your stuck

Thanks for that mark, ive just checked but none of the menus had BAT?

I have a 2004, 1.6 Edge.

Cheers dude, ill try that tonight if it stops raining.
Ill call the Ford garage and see if they can fit me in.

tis in there retry, but got steady on how fast you press the button

Ive gone through the menu 3 times now and cant find anything which says BAT. I wrote it all down but it makes no sense, as i would expect being a test mode. :lol:

my mistake im thinking of new focus, it will look something like this b11.0 the figures are your bat voltage, look for the b
just had a play in an old shape focus to find out

Edit

Ok, i have: 10.7 on ignition and 13.4 running.

EDIT: sorry 13.2 with screen and lights on. This is from cold.
It dipped into the 12's when i turned them on.