newby advice please!!
 

hi, im looking to dip my toe in to a bit of off road after many years of tc,
just wondered what turn motors you guys run in your 2wd buggies?
also do you run the speedos in blinky or boosted?
lastly, how many lipo's would i need ideally?

thanks in advance
chris

Hi Chris & welcome.

I'd say 7.5, possibly 8.5 turn are most popular. You could run 10.5 on our grass track without any timing/boost & it'd be fine as it's not so much a 'fast' track.

I can't speak for others but I'd guess most of us run ESC's in 'blinky' especially with the lower turn motors anyway. I've never run any timing/boost with a 7.5...

Two lipos would be ideal, if nothing else it removes the stress of getting your one & only battery charged before the next race. Having said that a high capacity battery (5000+Mah) wouldn't be so bad if it's just club racing.

Dan.

I run a single 5000mah lipo with a 13.5 motor and keep constantly charging to "top up" the battery between heats.

Hi

Dan has just about covered it with his post, I would say as you have driven before a 7.5 would be fine, you could go with 10.5 to start with, but I think you would soon get the hang of it.

off road with 2wd on grass/dirt you want you power delivery as smooth/linear as you can, most boost etc settings can just get you in a muddle.

A couple of good lipos would be fine, you can get away with one but its run, charge,run charge thats not ideal,at least with two you give the one you have just used a chance to cool before charging.

Hope to see you track side

Hi Chris

I returned to racing a year and a half ago after a quarter century absence. I remembered the brushed motor days where you wanted the fastest motor you could get that batteries could handle for 5 minutes.

So I bought a 7.5T motor. This was so fast the car pulls a wheelie off the start. The NBC track is bumpy so it favours less outright speed and more driving skill and car set up. Like Dave says, you get the hang of it quite quickly (although I am still looking to get the hang of it!).

In the end I bought a 10.5T motor which is more manageable. I subsequently discovered I could have used the transmitter to reduce the motor speed, so I needn't have bothered getting the slower motor! Oh well, it gives me a spare! I imagine the 10.5 would not be quick enough on astro or smooth clay tracks.

The guys are right about LiPos, life is much easier with two (or three). Have you chosen your car yet?

I found everyone friendly at the club so pop down for the next race day on 29 May and come see.

Cheers

Justin

Which is a lot more fun than winning races :thumbsup:

thanks for the reply guys, change of work hours over the summer have meant i cant race, but handly now winter has set in, i can finally make a start, going to get a fairly cheap chassis to start with associated b5m or possibly a losi 22 2.0.
i just wanted to ask about power, im guessing there is none, so it a leisure battery job? and lastly, do you run handout or pt's

Hi Chris

There is no power, you will need Leisure battery or just charge it of your car battery.

You don't need a pt for NBC as we put numbers on are cars and they are counted by race control as you go past.

A lot of us are running B5m and 22s you can get the B5ms cheap now as the B6 has been released

Yeah there's no power on site, most people use a car battery, I charge from my motorbike with the engine idling to keep juice in its battery.

at NBC as we use a system called "daveinashed" which once installed in race control will link acoustically to the nearest Marshall to detect cars as the pass the start line :thumbsup: so you don't need a transponder to race

A B5M or 22 2.0 would be a good starting point for racing at NBC. Both are popular cars at the club and are still competitive with the newer ones.

It is worth noting that the 22 2.0 ideally requires a stumpy servo and compact esc and receiver as the electrics are a bit of a squeeze, I'm not so sure about the B5m.

Hi, I have a B5M with a standard size savox servo and speed passion ESC. It fits, just. A low profile servo would be a bit easier but not essential. It's shorty or saddle LiPo, no room for a stick (unless you want to hack away at the chassis braces). Cheers