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BMAX2 ver 1 , 2, 3 - Difference?
I like the look of Yoko BMAX2. What are the main difference between version 1, 2 and 3
Thanks |
As far as i remember, here is a quick time line for the Bmax2 :
-Bmax2 , only rear version (and not front cab bodie) -Bmax2 MR , mid/rear version with molded chassis -Bmax2 MR V2 , nearly the same but with alu chassis (2 pieces) -Bmax2 MR V3 , one piece alu chassis, f/r hex wheel and gear diff |
Quote:
There was also a V2 with the full alu chassis (worlds edition) which also had the blue alloy blingy bits on |
V1 was ball diff V2 was geared.
Neal Lewis will be able to tell you to a T and more than likely reply for you. |
Version 2 had revised shocks if I remember right.
Yes there was a worlds spec one which pretty much had the lot and then the Version 3 was a slightly watered down version of that. If you can't get a worlds version then go for the V3. The car works so much better with full alloy chassis. |
V3 (and the worlds / FK) have the new bottom shock caps.
Versions: V1 MR - Ball diff, plastic chassis V2 - 2 piece alu chassis and gear diff V2 - Factory Kit : Aluminum steering bell crank Aluminum front lower suspension mount (standard) Aluminum front upper arm mount (Narrow) “X” Ver. II shock shaft (Titanium coat) “X” Ver. II shock Aluminum cap Titanium turn buckle set V2 - Worlds Same as Factory, with full alu chassis V3 - Same as worlds except for Alu cap, titanium turn buckles and alu rear hub V3 - Factory : Titanium turn buckle set Aluminum steering bell crank Titanium coat shock shaft X Shock Piston (Black 1.6mm/2 hole) Aluminum front lower suspension mount Aluminum front upper arm mount Front and rear hex hub Aluminum Rear Hub Carrier (Toe-in 0°) I would go for a V3. And if you want to go all in, go for the V3 Factory. However, not all shops have the V3 Factory (limited edition), then go for the V3. |
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