YZ-2 with B-Max rear end.
 

Converted my YZ-2 to the B-Max2 gearbox using parts obtained from Fibrelyte. Although this set up is for low grip situations, people may find it useful over the Winter months and where tracks have variable grip levels around the circuit. Swapping from one gearbox to the other trackside, takes less than 10 mins.

Consists of:
Battery Brace 2.4mm
Rear shock tower 4mm
Shock tower spacer 3mm

Work involved:
Drilling two countersunk holes in chassis where waterfall fits. This was done using old B-Max2 chassis as a template.

Fitting a 2mm spacer between waterfall and chassis, this could also be done using washers. Some people may wish to go 3mm if your lipos are a little fatter.

Fitting a 2mm spacer between rear camber support and gearbox lug.

The B-Max2 forward/rear hinge pin support fits straight on. I opted to use the one from the YZ-2. Which will need a small amount of filing, to get the full motor travel on motor plate.

A small area needs to be removed from the plastic chassis sideframes, for battery placement.

The wing mounts need 2mm removed to correct the angle of wing. If using B-Max2 plastic shock tower, this process doesn't require doing.

On the bottom corners of the carbon shock tower, a small angle will need to be filed to clear gearbox casing. This is something Fibrelyte couldn't do themselves, but is an easy operation with just a few small strokes of a file.

You could opt for the plastic shock tower from the B-Max2, but the carbon tower gives an extra shock mounting hole. Holes 1, 2 & 3 are the same as the YZ-2 and holes 3 & 4 are the same as the two inner holes on the B-Max2.

Very nice. did you design the tower, or did fibrelyte?

I was about to draw up a battery plate to fit, but looks easier to just order this one. How much was the kit?

It was about £26 plus postage for all the parts.

I did it just before Yokomo came up with theirs at euro's, hence I wanted the parts more similar looking to YZ-2 parts. The tower also has the advantage of the extra shock holes, so you can go more inboard like the YZ-2.

I ran mine at the euros but I could really do with getting that battery bar as mine as just extended from the standard one.

We also ran 1mm under waterfall and 2mm under gearbox lug.

If I was to contact fbrelyte to get that bar made, what do I ask for specifically?

So... is there much difference (geometry wise) between a Bmax and a modified YZ with a Bmax gearbox?

Seems a faff if not - just run the Bmax?

Great post and conversion by the way - looks quality :)

Allan and anyone else interested.

I'm sure Fibrelyte will sell the parts separately, if you contact them and ask for Stephen he will be able to help. Just mention YZ-2 parts for Trevor and he'll know what they are.

The YZ-2 with the B-Max rear end moves the motor and battery back around 25mm, giving more rear end grip but still more steering than the B-Max2. If you have a B-Max2 and are happy with it, then please stick with it as it will still work well in all conditions.

I know the set up worked really well for the guys at the euro's, on a low grip clay track. But this was done for some of the lesser talented YZ-2 owners. Who found the YZ to be too much on certain tracks, with differing surfaces and grip levels not been consistent around the full lap. Should also work well over the Winter months when grip is down.

Hope this helps

Had noticed the team were running 1mm under the waterfall, but with battery brace fitted above ally hinge. Was their any particular reason for this.

Spot on with that. I'm thinking super slippy gym floor in winter, York and Batley indoors for example, this will be ideal for that.

After my last regional and the Invernational I'm going to build this and give it a try.

None that was mentioned. I just extended my YZ2 bar but i definitely prefer to run the bar you are running, much neater. :thumbsup:

Hi guys, what bmax 2 parts with numbers are required please?

You would need a complete B-Max2 gearbox, which could work out expensive buying the parts separately. The best way is probably to pick up a cheap B-Max2 or look on ebay/forums for anyone selling just the gearbox.

I think this image shows most the part numbers needed, unless anyone can think of any other parts. Some of the parts are the same as YZ-2, but it would be better to be able to swap from one gearbox to other easily.

Just to enhance your message a bit :

Go for the lightweight shafts (B2-303IG or some made by Tamiya fit as well). Just to keep the COG down. Also, just go for the B-Max2 tower, easier to mount. COG wise, you also want the lightweight motor plate (B2-304LW). But I can image that on dirt, that may not be an option. Using something like carbon would be better.

Here is mine :)

That's a very nice piece for the stock battery brace.
Did you make it yourself? Alloy or plastic? How much?

Hi!

Thank you :)
I made it my self. It is made from aluminium.
I can make few more if someone want´s one.
Price would be 17£ including shipping to EU.

Got all my parts and bits ready to put the Y-Max together, just need to bite the bullet and drill the chassis. What size drill
Bits and countersink did everyone use?

Cheers
Chris

just designed a brace

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...pswiiugbgf.jpg

You know the battery braces are available to purchase?

Contact bezerk rc on Facebook

Here is a pic on mine
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/...2_184405_1.jpg

That bezerk rc one is a direct copy of the one on Lee's Euros car, as are the carbon knuckles. I suspect someone in Australia borrowed originals sent to Josh Pain, which have been copied, possibly as Yokomo have no plans to make them.
I really fancy that brace, but put off by postage, duty and wait from Australia.
Fastinfastout what was cost to you?