New DB01 Durga/Baldre coming, a few beginners questions though
 

First, I am new to the hobby, well kind of, I have the experience of building a Tamiya 2wd many years ago. Always remembered it as a fun challenge. Picked up a Losi Mini-T a year ago but sold it because I felt it was too small for backyard bashing for my son who's 7.

I'm currently reading the main thread and I'm gathering some info for when my Baldre arrives. I want to keep it as stock as possible but I've got the following in mind as hop ups.

Tony Screws Set
54017 Front One Way
54028 Damper Set
54018 or 54061 Slipper Clutch

One question I have is whether to go with the single slipper clutch or the double. I'm leaning towards the single because it costs less but it's not like the double is going to break the bank. I just would like to know if the double is worth it's cost.

For the hex screws, what is the driver size I would need, is 2mm correct?

Planning to go with the Novak Havoc brushless esc and motor. It's the least expensive one I can grab, hoping that would fit the DB01 ok.

Any suggestion for a inexpensive servo brand/model? FWIW, I'm in the USA.

you won't notice much difference between the single and double slipper, save your money, buy the single and put the saved money towards a pair of rear 501X diff halves.

bluebird servos are ok, ran dcms durga with one in and it felt fine

I have a brand new in bag Tamiya slipper clutch I'm selling if you want one?

qatmix, thanks but I already have a source in the US that's pretty cheap.

DCM, sounds good, I'll stick with the single slipper.

millzy, never heard of the bluebird, I'll look into them.

Durga information
 

I'll admit. I typically recommend more expensive parts as opposed to the cheaper alternatives since it tends to save more money in the long run.

But I do appreciate finding quality parts for less money :)

I built my Durga using Tony's Screw Kit (it is excellent). The perfect tool set is the Dynamite Hex Driver Metric Set [http://h1070208.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...?prod=DYN2904]

You will need all three drivers for the screw set (1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm). This is a high quality set for only $20.00 and you can often find it on the shelf of your local hobby shop. Make sure to grab the Metric set. Dynamite sells a 'US' set that looks identical, but they won't fit your kit.

The only problem I had with screw kit was with the screws used to hold the motor mount to the chassis (this was not a concern since these screws are going into pre-threaded metal and not the hard plastic). For some reason they supplied screws that were a little too long and prevent the center belt cover from seating properly. You can either dremel these down or use the kit screws. All the other screws that you need to drive into the plastic measured perfectly.

The Tamiya brand Hop-Up shock kit is the best one around for the Durga - they are built like a tank and will not let you down.. One warning though, the upgrade shocks are -too long- for the Durga or the Baldre by default. Tamiya does not mention this in the assembly instructions for some reason??? The are so long in fact that they will cause the rear uprights to rub against the inside of the rear wheel hubs every time the car is airborne. This will eventually cause the uprights to crack in half (yup, it happened to me during a race). The solution is to put limiters inside the shocks before you build them. This is done by sliding a couple rubber o-rings on the shock shafts before you fully assemble the shocks (they will be on the inside of the shock cylinder). It will save you a lot of time and money if you do it first thing.. Use the length of the kit shocks as a guide. The hop-up shocks should measure the same length as the stock shocks (eyelet to eyelet) when they are fully extended.

I've been racing my Durga in Novice and Stock class for several months now and I live in the USA. I'll be happy to help with other questions you might have. Let me know.

For what it's worth I prefer the centre one way. Also, the Tony's kit doesn't have screws for the shocks as the kit ones clip onto ball studs. The #54028 TRF shocks fit using proper machine screws so you'll need 8 of those from your friendly tool shop.

Ok, I've come down to the radio system. A couple of choices I'm looking at. I need to keep costs down as I have no parts from the hobby that I've kept around the house, I'm picking up everything fresh. These come with servos. The prices are brand new shipped to my door.
Airtronics MX-3 FM $75
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=LXCHA8**&P=ML

Hitec Agressor FM $50
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXCXM4**&P=7

I'm thinking the Hitec, even though it is simplier or cheaper looking. Especially if it does pretty much the basics of what the Airtronics can do but without the lcd screen. Anyone know if the Hitec is acceptable?

Airtronics (Sanwa) quality is far superior to Hitec. I wouldn't touch anything made by Hitec with a bargepole.

Radio gear is one of those things that will really frustrate you if you skimp on the quality. The Japanese-engineered brands are generally the best (Futaba is my choice). Bad radio is more prone to interference, and the servos tend to cause problems with poor performance and innacurate centreing.

Agreed! Hitech servos are garbage.. A fellow racer went through 4 of these in two months before I convinced him to buy an Airtronics servo. Five months later he is still using the same Airtronics servo with no problems.

Go with the Airtronics MX-3. It's the same one I use today.. It has been working so well that I haven't had a need to switch to a Spread Spectrum remote yet. Airtronics also makes an MX-3s (spread spectrum version). Buy that one if you can and you will never have to worry about frequency interference.

The stock servos that come with the MX-3 are decent. If you can, try to pick up an Airtronics High Speed / High Torque servo. They run around $100.00 each, but are well worth it for better control and turning speed if you plan to race.

I cant say i've ever had any problems with my hitec gear although i've always went for the high end stuff anyway and it's all probably 5+ years old. Some of their recent budget stuff looks pretty rubbish though. I know my LHS stopped stocking them in favour of futaba stuff now.

Thanks guys, I'll spend a little more for the Airtronics.

You won't have 4-wheel braking with a front one-way, so you might not like it for a backyard basher.

MX-3S is the synthesized one (still FM, but no crystals)
MX-3 FHSS is the frequency hopping spread spectrum one

One-Ways
 

Good catch on the MX-3 versions. I realized the mistake after I made the post.

The front one-way and center one-way will both limit breaking to the rear wheels only. The center one-way still enables diff action from the front wheels whereas the front one-way removes diff action from the front wheels altogether. Each one-way has benefits and really comes down to which type of control feels better to your driving.

Sim has a point. If you are not racing on a track, then a one-way really is not necessary.

Thanks, depending on cashflow, I'll see if I include the one way in the build process or as an add-on later if I want to try it out.