DEX410 Wheels binding on full lock?
 

hi, im just wondering if any of you have a problem or had that i have with my 410.

ive tried everything possible i think. the problem being when i have the car on full lock and roll it forward or back (no pinion) it binds up at a tight point then releases very slightly.

if i have the wheels straight its perfectly free.

i have checked most things concerning the diffs, bearings, diff bearings, cvd,s, gaps for the diff teeth etc. (all nice and free) i have taking the front diff out and spun the front wheels at full lock with ease. ive had the diffs out and stripped and rebuilt them and all seems legit.

the wierd bit. if i lift the car of the ground and turn the wheels on full lock it does not bind and if i take the slipper unit out and roll the car on full lock its perfect also. If i leave the mid-front shaft in the slipper and leave the rear out its fine again and vice versa. when ever both shafts are in the slipper the problem occurs (diffs connected)

the car is mint with brand new drivetrain installed with driveshafts front/rear. and was ready to race. ,it was raced at chadderton but had to retire the car and havent been near it since. the only thing that is i have a cut rear gear in the rear and still the standard in the front, but i would think this wouldnt make a difference.

no-one seems to have an answer for me. i spoke with adam skelding but cant put a finger on it.

thanks

Tosh, did you use threadlock on the driveshaft cross pin grub screws? I've had a similar problem in the past and the thread lock had run down the cylinder and set which had the similar symptoms you describe, however, it doesn't tie in with the removal of the slipper curing the problem.

Col.

You don't have a centre diff, therefore when you roll the car you will feel some binding as the front and rear diffs travel different distances at full lock.

The joints at the wheel end aren't the most refined either. So you may feel them tightening up slightly.

Yup, that was what I was going to say. On full lock the front diff is going to want to turn a little more than the back one. The car will feel free for a few inches then slightly 'tie up'.

If you pit the car on a flat, Grippy surface, pop on full lock and push it forward until you feel it bind, then pick up the back of the car quickly. The back wheels will turn forward a little to release the 'tension' in the drive train.

This would never be noticeable when racing though.

Jimmy

None of the above im afraid guys.

i see what your saying jimmy, but it was that bad i had to stop racing at chadderton after practice.

the locking up is quite bad. the car has been ok before so something isnt right somewhere. its just finding it is the problem without it being costly.

if the front wheels sort of chatter when at full lock and when power is applied, it is the front cvds, i would change the pins in the cvds because they are so cheap, then i leave the cvd cup part where the pin is filled with bearing oil over night, it will run out of it, then the next day i will clean all the oil out of it, it leaves a little residue of oil then put them in the car and they are super duper free again!

hi mate the cvd,s are fine as i stated above the wheels turn free on full lock when not connected through the diff, thanks.

Personally i'd check the discambooberator slides in the synchrohub splines to the rear offside caster inversion. I'm pretty sure that will be the problem.

Don't be daft, it's definitely the continuum transfunctioner.

you mean front diff? If you take the front diff out the CVDs aren't doing anything at all. So saying they work fine with no diff in means nothing.

Have you checked it's nothing silly like an off centre spur Or bent motor shaft?

Yea you cant really test the cvds without the diff, i think its the cvds

Do you have durango wheels fitted? Seen this before with other brand wheels with a deeper hex/different offset than the durango wheels.