BMax2 MR indoor slippey setup
 

Hi all, yesterday i ran my yokomo v3 for the first time indoors and struggled all day. The surface was slippy gym floor and some patches of pretty high grip carpet. Does anybody have a setup for the same or similar conditions?

maybe let people know your current set up for other to advise - I am interested in your thread so glad you posted as i also race indoors on the same kind of surface at cullingworth, much smaller than say bury where I also fancy trying out but still enjoyable.

I am a newbie and I run the yokomo bmax 2 ver2 as a mid motor car, although rear motor is good for slippy surfaces. A ball diff again works well apparantly for slippy floors although I don't have experience myself on it.

tyre wise I run Schumacher mini spikes yellow compound on front and rear.

the more experienced will be able to give better advice than me pal :)

Right, well the setup i started off with was

BMax2 MR v3

Front
35wt oil
1.6 x 2 pistons
2 shock limiter washers (i think they are 0.8mm each)
White associated springs
Front camber link, inner middle, inside on hub carrier
Shocks middle hole on wishbone, inside on tower
Yellow cut staggers LP

Rear
30wt oil
1.7 x 2 pistons
2 shock limiter washers
Green Associated springs
Rear camber link on inside on the camber block and inside on the rear hub
Shocks middle hole on wishbone, inside on tower.
3k diff oil
Yellow Minispikes

Shorty down the middle with 50 grams under lipo

so throughout the day i ended up making a number of changes. The car suffered with a lot of under steer into the corner which required the brakes to make the back end come around but then as soon as the power was applied the back end would break abruptly.

The changes that i made throughout the day were as followed

i shortened the front camber link

lengthened the rear camber link by one hole

car felt a bit too soft all round with the front end collapsing too much so i went stiffer on the springs to blue front, grey rears (Associated)

I also went up quite thick in the diff oil (20k) following some advice and this did make the car safer to drive out of the corner and made the car feel safer in general. not a massive change but a positive one at that.

After all these changes the car was a bit easier to drive but it was still to slow getting into the corners and still not squaring up well enough out of the corners in order to accelerate away safely.

Although it was a frustrating day im going to persevere, it would be much to easy to race my bmax4 iii which is tremendous pretty much everywhere :thumbsup:

For the next meeting i think im going to get a ball diff installed and maybe try minipins on the rear. Im also going to try the heavier front bulkhead to see if that helps with the steering. Im reluctant to try anything more aggressive than LP cut staggers on the front of the car as i saw other cars with them on and they where getting round really well.

So thats where im at, if anyone has any help, tips, or a good setup for slippy using the car in mid motor it would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Minty

I find the yellow staggers understear everywhere on indoor slippy floors. One place I race is really slippy and I run mini spikes front and rear by choice, ball diff, and i move my front shocks all the way out at the top and in on the wishbones. apart from that I think mines very similar to your until setup.

Biggest thing I'd change is to run saddles, the car is better on the slippy with a it more weight in. If you just have shorty, then you could try it across the chassis, towards the rear, and a bit of extra weight. I run the alloy bulkhead with extra brass weight, this is advised. The heavier yokomo steel or 3rd part bras bulkheads are best on high traction.
I found the AE springs are too light, but the AE blue front spring works ok, and the AE yellow rear. I currently run the yatabe arena springs, yellow front and black rear. 37.50/32.50 oils. Too light on the oil (and spring) and you get collapsing you have seen, but the car runs better with a lighter front spring and a heavy rear spring. Kit rear springs work well to be fair, better than most AE in my testing.
If you are on lowest inner ball link on rear inner, try adding washers to the raise the outer (hub) ball link.
And I prefer the ball diff in lower traction.
In low traction i tend to run minispikes all round, on a wide (uncut) front wheel

:thumbsup:
Ill definitely have to try the shorty across the chassis. I thought the yatabe springs where for use in high traction only? have you found they work well on lower grip surfaces too, like chadderton, worksop, gym floors?

I didn't like saddles in mine but it's always worth a go

I was there Sunday and my car was good (Better than me anyway :P )

I ran pins all round, although VERY worn ones on the front. Car was on saddles and I ran the ball diff.

If you want the camber and shock positions etc, I can post this up once back at home.

Cheers John, that would be much appreciated :thumbsup:

Ride height was pretty low, around 22mm. I have no additional weight in the car at all.
Front link is 2nd longest, inside inner and inside on hub, 3mm spacer under ball-stud on inner. Spring is AE red with tower and wishbone both being middle hole. Oils, I can't remember, but assume around the 40 mark.

Rear link is again 2nd longest, outside on hub, middle on tower, no spacers. Spring is AE blue and oil at around the 30 mark. Shocks are inner on tower, outer on wishbone. Wheelbase is medium. and squat is just 1 spacer.

Motor is 8.5, no boost or timing.

As I said front pins were very worn, but the rears started the day as new. Radio glitches ruined my performance, but the car felt good enough for me not to change anything all day ;)