Team associated B44.3
 

Just finished my B44.3
Really nice build and some great improvements over the B44.2

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture....pictureid=6705

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture....pictureid=6706

Ben

Looking good ben :thumbsup:
what gear diffs oils u using ? As will be getting my today :woot:

Any tips before i build it

Half way through my build.

What are people using oil wise?

Anyone going shorty?

So far build is really nice, building gear diffs ive never done before so any tips for making sure shimming is correct id very much appreciate

Russ

Obviously it's a bit early days on which oils to use, but having seen quite a few guys using 10k front and 7k rear that's what I went with for astro. I also went for 100k in the centre diff, which should be good on high-grip but I may go thinner for indoors. I've also built mine with the shorty layout, so we'll see how that goes :D

Whilst on the subject of diffs I ended up only using 1x of the #9888 0.5mm shims (Actually 0.2mm) on the drivecups in each diff, this is because with the pictured 2x #9888's I found the diff bound a little too much for my liking after having forced the #9937 diff pin through. I made sure to keep the internal shimming the same, so the two #9888's as pictured where used and the shimming felt spot on as such :). I would also recommend putting the bearings on both the drivecup and ring gear before you assemble the drive cups, this is because the bearings internal diameter is slightly smaller than the external diameter of the #9888's which you need to get past in order to complete the diff. Also pay close attention to the shimming of the diffs inside of the gearbox's, I found my front diff was spot on with the recommended 3x #3911's on both sides of the diff, but the rear was a little tight so I swapped one shim onto the cup side to give me a little more play - Having said that I'll be re-checking after a few packs and it may need to be swapped round again.

When building the centre diff with heavy weight diff fluid such as that which I used, make sure you pre-apply as much oil as you can onto the diff gears and into the cup before you put the two together. I filled it as I have done with every other gear diff which I've built, and quickly wondered where all the oil went after building it! The oil is so thick it doesn't penetrate into the diff cup, which is why you apply as much as you can before trying to pack it into the cup with the gears installed.

Other than the diffs the rest of the build has been pretty smooth, the only other section I found myself frustrated with was the CVD's, which if you haven't had a B44 before doesn't clearly illustrate that the longer CVD axles are meant to be installed onto the shorter rear driveshafts, where as the shorter one's are for the front.

Hi, my rear center cva is 98.2 mm long. Manual saids it is 92.2 mm (#9596) and the hole at the end is to small😠😠. And the body shell has a fault in it 😠😠 this is not going well. On the good side the diffs built great.

Just measured all mine there jus 0.1 shot on average thats alot that bud.

I am sure CML will sort asap for you though!!

Mine built perfectly as per manual and drives and performed great

does it come with the chassis protector like the .2 did ?

Not that ive seen so far with it being ally like b5 i wouldnt expect one tbh

Nope

Some here that look good...http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...219#post881219
;)

Highly reccomended!!

Well on the table its just about ready, proofs in the running though fingers crossed

Ran mine 1st time tonight and it handles really well, would recommend changing
the ball cups to some stronger ones and definetly a thicker oil in front diff.

Overall its amazing how well it runs and its a bonus not having setup the ball diffs, it just goes job done.

Also just like the b44.2 add 2 spacers in the front shocks the .3 is no different there.

Is it me or side by side with .2 the centre layout is further foward, is that because of weight as now no slipper or some other reason. It must put more bias to front.

I've heard it's further forward to accommodate the shortly lipo

It is forward and looks like for that reason, there should have been an alternative antenna position added as running with saddle packs you cant have the rx behind the motor right were the antenna mount is.
The only option i can see and its what i have done is add an antenna mount to the unused shorty bracket hole in the bottom deck and run it up from there.
There is a ton of space between the lipos and the centre diff compared to the .2

More steering basically ????
You don't need a receiver wire showing just fold it up I've never had a problem
Has anyone tried the shorty yet ?
If you use a VTS it has to go the opposite way round also

My rx wite never shows but im anal about wires so i heat the antenna tube and run it under the shell, coiling wires isnt any good although i dont have problems neither, yes def got great steering and i added 80g between lipos during the build, suprised at how well it runs on polished floor and carpet at the local club (

Which way round for low grip tracks is it then....

motor forward with saddles or motor rear with shorty pack ???

Also what are you running, centre diff or slipper in the middle ???

cheers