Very dissapointed
 

Hi all. I received my tc02c evo conversion kit on Friday. I want to list all the problems I have had with it and ask people's thoughts.

1, the spur gear cover needed dremeling at the bottom to fit and there's a chunk of plastic missing from it where I presume it was moulded.

2, the gearbox halves don't go together at all. I had to dremeled the underside of it to clear my motor as when the gearbox is mounted, my team powers motor doesn't fit between the gearbox and the chassis. The first idler gear rubbed on the layshaft bearing because the layshaft bearing doesn't sit flush in the moulding. If I tighten up the gearbox, the layshaft can't be turned.

3, the motor plate was scratched.

4, the diff when tightened up and sealed is very stiff.

I bought it from inside line racing who are always helpful and I'll call them in the morning and let them know. I also want want to add I am very experienced and no newbie to Rc racing so i know how to build correctly. I know it's not a expensive conversion but I don't think that it should mean faults like this are acceptable.

I've literally just finished completing the rolling chassis, built using my tc02c + the conversion kit.

My spur gear cover too has a small chunk of plastic missing from where the spur cover must have been attached during moulding, I'd rather it wasn't like that but I'll soon forget about it as it is quite minor.

I also had to remove some flash from the upper rear section of the g/box casing (where the 2 screws secure the shock tower,though again it was a minor thing & the rest of the g/box assembly was ok. I noticed the layshaft bearing (in the L/H half of the g/box) doesn't fit flush on mine either but nothing is binding, though I may double check this as there is a little friction but not sure yet if mine just needs running in.

Can't comment on the gear diff as I've built it using the B5M ball diff but on this thread: http://forum.teamcracing.net/forum.p...extra=page%3D1 said the diff was notchy once assembled so used a 2nd gasket which he says worked.

The only thing I would have liked to see is better access to the lower motor mounting screw but that's not really a build issue...

That's rough luck Adey.

I have always found Team-C plastic parts to be of a very high standard so perhaps Kev will be able to sort something out. It sounds like the early production run on these parts is a bit out of tolerance.

Is the chassis itself ok? I'm expecting mine in a day or so.

Not sure about the diff. Is it stiff as in lumpy or just plain stiff? Again, my Team-C geared diff is a dream so I can't say why you might be having a problem. The only problem that I have had stemmed from putting really thick oil in. On a high grip track it wore notches in the out-drives in a single meeting! All better now. :D

Yep my idler gear catches the very same bearing that doesn't sit flush. Depth is 3mm and the bearing is 4.....

I think the big issue for me is that the motor doesn't fit between the chassis and the gearbox where it meets the brace that bolts to the chassis. I have dremeled that and the bearing housing so mine now sits flush. All my prop lens have been sorted but I personally feel that it's not great. My chassis had a decent amount of plastic missing where it was broken out of the mold. It's not particularly pretty but hopefully won't be an issue.

So does your layshaft lock up when you close the gearbox up or is it 'just' creating drag ?

Had to remove 1mm from the lh side of the gear box where the bearing goes in the depth is clearly 3mm depth and it needs to be 4 so I demled it away. But now I have a big problem with my gear diff as it's slipping and crunching..... Some instructions wouldn't go a miss to these conversion kits.

Seems odd as I've assembled the g/box with the layshaft bearing protruding the 1mm or so from the moulding but its not what I'd call binding at all, it just feels 'new' ie, just wants running in. Can't see why your gear diff would be crunching though :confused:

I've just now stripped my newly built chassis to see if there's a problem with the bearing not sitting flush in the moulding, turns out the teeth on the idler are catching on the edge of this bearing, as shown:

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2b9c845d.jpg

And a pic of the protruding bearing, by 1mm:

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1dd46420.jpg

I've shown in the pic below from the top of the step to flush is, as you say 3mm, the full depth of the hole is just over 4mm. Comparing this with the original tc02c g/box moulding (not pictured), which also has a step but measures 4mm from the top of the step to flush, in other words there's less of a step thus allowing the bearing to sit flush.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/...ps50526a00.jpg

I guess if I hadn't inspected it again, in my instance the edge of the idler teeth would've been worn away by the bearing. I thought I could hear a slight 'notchy' sound when I rotated the tranny by hand, that's why.

I may end up dremalling the step to 4mm deep but I guess I shouldn't really have to...

The only part I don't get is if my layshaft still rotates freely with the 1mm protruding bearing, will it end up with 1mm of side play if the bearing is seated flush ? The same layshaft when fitted to the tc02c didn't have any play..

I will call inside line racing in the morning but I don't see what they can do. I will say that they are always helpful and I am sure Kevin lee will help where he can.

Think the internal gears are slipping no idea why?...
I've also trimmed away said lip, feel much more free now.

You should try the front wheel ball bearing of the Sv2 ...

They seems to have the same size, but thinner ...

I have also seen that the bearing sit proud and does catch the gear but when you put the gear box together it does not as it pulls everything into line and the gear box it perfectly free.

The layshaft bearing will have to be proud of the inner face of the gear casing in order to align the gears.

The boss where the idler shaft is located looks more pronounced than on the TC02C, so it is logical that the layshaft bearing should also stand proud by a little more.

The problem of the idler gear fouling the layshaft bearing will arrise if the boss on the idler location plus the amount that the idler gear bearings protrude from the side of the idler is less than the amount that the layshaft bearing protrudes above the inside face of the casing.

I've trimmed the case to make the bearing flush. No problem after that, car is nice and free

Please place this and fotos also on teamc forum.
So stephen can take a look at it. And solve it asap.

Well it's an ansmann! ;-)

Someone else will have to, I give up trying to post there as I just go round in circles with security/activation/log in issues !

I think that the Team-C forum is having issues at the minute. It is very slow and the log-in seems all at sixes and sevens.

Oh boehoe. they have a smal problem and its ansmann?
See your pic you drive a breakumacher?
Atleast teamC solves the problem instead of keeping it:)