KF antisquat
 

I have seen from a few of the top guys setup sheets there using the bottom hole on the rear and top hole on the top on the rear gear box. And then using a 2 or 3 mm spacer in the front position to give antisquat. Any one no the reason behind this or the effect it has thanks

It is suppose to give more forward drive.

I used it on Sunday, but found using the high mounting better on the slippery stuff but it did cause a little high speed understeer.

the plastic blocks in the kit give a set amount of anti squat, you need to use the alloy blocks to copy the team drivers sheets, as they allow finer adjustment.
there is an explanation in the manual of what it does on page 30.

Are they still anodized purple?

Yes they are still purple.

Mark, he wasn't asking how but why.

was asking they they use the higher and lower holes together and I have the alloy blocks

Yup hence why my post says page number in the manual which says what it does. And it gives a finer adjustment. the plastic blocks give 2 degrees is in the top holes or bottom holes, by fitting the blocks to the high front and low rear you get a far larger degree, by using alloy blocks high front and low rear you can get a finer degee from 2 upwards.

Think its the sx manual set up sheet has a guide of what angles you get with what holes and spacers.

it does not say anything about having the rear in the lower hole and the front in the upper hole

Indeed it doesn't, it is something the team has found out so the anti-squat chart on your setup sheet is useless.

In Theory, more anti-squat=more forward drive
Less anti-squat=less forward drive

High Pin=better traction (low grip conditions)
Low Pin=Less traction (high grip)

I think Mossy answered this one in another thread, from memory he said that with one pin high and the other low gave a setting somewhere between pin high and pin low, so sort of half way house.

I suppose ultimately you won't know until you try yourself but it would be good if one of the factory guys confirmed this.

As Badger5 said.

It gives an in-between option. 3.5mm spacing on the front is around 1.95 deg anti squat as listed on Darren’s set up

you will need the alloy blocks to achieve this as the kit plastic blocks will give you huge amounts of anti squat if you run front high rear low. as pointed out by Mark

I’ve been running this set up for a while and find it a good mix between grip and stability over rutted sections

Also effects drive over bumps.....

rear low with 0 shims= rear high with 4mm shims

and because it is better to have short screws ( think of bending) we use the lower hole as long as possible

Cruise

Does anyone one know if there is a chart to show what position the shims have to be in to get a certain setting for anti squat and toe.

ie. both gold shims between the gear box and rear hanger gives you 3 degree of toe. does that make sense.

cheers
Ross

Charts are on the set up sheets at the bottom.

Now after thinking about what i had wrote i pictured the set up sheet whilst driver to milton keynes. i thought i wonder if the figures next to the Degree figures on the sheet up sheet refer to the thickness of the washers :D:D.

thanks for confirming that :thumbsup::thumbsup:

sorry to highjack the thread but what is the effect of running negative anti-squat as i guess you can do that with the alloy option parts???