22-4 base set-ups for astro
 

Normally I'd try and work it out myself but due to a combination of factors it looks like the first time I'll get to race my 22-4 will be our first 4WD regional so the question is has anyone got a base astro set-up they would care to share?

I've looked on Petit but the only astro set up on there is one from Norway where there was snow!

I've had a about 10 minutes running with the car in the damp and it felt very smooth and easy to drive but lacking a little initial turn in but that was probably due to conditions and wrong front tyres. That was pretty much kit set up.

I've had a few thoughts about things to try but given my lack of time really just looking to see if there is any consensus on changes from kit set up for our UK tracks.

Thanks

Rob

Intresting how slow the response is to the post, I have a 22-4 and on damp cold astro It was very good out of the box, on the same track but a nice dry warm day it was quite possibly the most unforgiving car I have driven for a very very long time. I wouldn't clam the setup was anywhere near worth posting on here as I wouldn't wish that car and that result on anyone:blush:

The lack of response on here is starting to make me wonder if I'm not alone in the struggle

Just to point out, I'm not saying it crap, It's working well on my home clubs grass track and dirt track, just the experience I had on mega high grip

Im getting there with mine, in all conditions on astro. Biggest and best changes are to use the wider rear hex and some extra droop on the rear in my opinion. Other than that I have gone to the black front spring, and the pink spring on the back with 25wt oil. Put the front shock bottom to the outside hole and also run the left cell forward.

Set a track record at my local track last time out so can't be to shabby :thumbsup:

22/4 set up
 

Hi just spent in total approx 4 days trying to understand the 22/4. finally got something really interesting. I initially found that the static damping on the car was realy way off and spring rates were not correct. Car was slugish didnt want to turn in over damped etc etc just didnt like astro.
First change 6 hole pistons front and back drill 1.56mm holes. front oil 32.5 weight. rear 30 weight. second change 5 degree castor blocks (modified 22 alloy ones what a difference)
Springs rear losi Pink, Front durango Purple (losi blacks to soft 4.64lb poor front tio back balance . I also have made my own HR rear roll centre blocks with 2 degree anti squat. (New rear inside hole positions on rear A arms. get out the dremel
rear Links as follows. rear hub B - 3 - shock tower 1 or 2
Front links 3 - shock tower 2 A arm inside
outside limiters 2mm front - rear - 2mm inside + 2mm Outside
Track fast bumpy astro lots of elevation changes technical with jumps
Try these and let me know car is now EXCELLENT no additional weights batteries to rear position enjoy :thumbsup:

Id imagine the minimal responseis because it's so early in the season, I've not been outside with either of my cars yet.

Thanks for replies guys, guess Dan is right that it is a little early to have a consensus on base changes required to kit set up for astro.

Lots of useful ideas though so I guess I will have to stop being lazy and work through them myself - guess the first meeting with the car will be a bit experimental!!

Probably try some 6 hole pistons as you suggest Niall as even with 25wt oil it feels a bit over-damped on the bench with kit pistons. Are you running the optional high roll centre rear block or do you mean you made your own one? I'll also drill the extra inner shock mount hole as that is an easy and cheap tuning option!

No. 46, what effect did running the wider rear hex have for you?

Rob

Widening the rear track knocked down a lot of grip roll and also helped stabalise thr whole car everywhere on the track really, but particulaly the medium to fst corners.

iv run mine a fair amount outdoors. Mainly testing.

its been a little difficult to set up i must admit. This is roughly what i have come to that's different to above settings
1.8mm rear pistons on 25weight oil on red springs. Found this really settled the car on the bumps. Front shocks had kit pistons with 32 1\2 oil on a blue spring. Rear link is furthest in on camber block (short) and middle on hub. This just allowed the car to slide rather than bite.
one thing i found that made a big difference was tyres, now schu mini spikes tend to bite hard on side bite but i found running bb whites cured a lot of the problems. As it took away a bit of side bite and really did the trick. I had removed all roll bars during the testing but this Sunday in am going to try it with soft roll bars all round just to take a little roll out.

ill come back after the weekend with some feedback

Yeah does work much better on ballistic whites as opposed to schu yellows in my opinion but i have been getting on much better with ballistics on 4wd and 2wd recently.

I broke mine after a lap :woot:

Felt good for the lap i did, kit set up but 35wt front 30wt rear, and blue front springs...

Going to have another go on sunday if all my parts turn up :p

Tyres
 

Hi 46, Try 2wd Minispike 2 tyres on the front I havent used 4wd fronts on astro for ages, certainly on the odd occasion that its damp or wet, just way less carcase roll, and no understeer it has really helped my 22/4

Yeah I might try 2wd fronts on it soon but I was well happy with the ballistics. Ballistics seemed to wear much better compare to the mini spikes but I had the setup better on ballistics. Just need a bit more fine tuning but I think I have got a good base setting to work from

I've only just got mine on the track a couple times but I too find the car performs better with ballistic buggy tyres than shumacher mini spikes.

I found a 7.5T motor in the car underpowered even with boost turned up with a low gear ratio. The car is 200 grams heavier than a Kyosho Lazer ZX 5 fs 2 sp.

No problems since replacing with a 5.5T motor. I run 35wt front, green front springs and 30wt rear with stock yellow springs. I had problems with steering, the stock servo horn will break. You need an alloy one. Also I upgraded the stock plastic ackerman parts with the TLR alloy one. The steering horn will break on a hard landing. Thanks to George I was able to replace the broken one I had recently at a club meeting.

Other than that still setting it up, but I do love it. It is waaay easier to drive than my Lazer ZX on astro. Will try the wider rear hex.

Simon

Any more news on set ups now we are starting to get into the swing of the season?

About the weight, I saved 80 grams doing this:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7415/...bb51e0ea_b.jpg

Saddle-pack (Forward position) gives us a 46,2/53,8 weightdistribution(%).
Saddle-pack (Rearward position) is 45,7/54,3.
Shorty-pack gives us 46,1/53,9.

Side to side with a shorty, it's normally 10-20 grams of a difference, but if you run a fairly light shorty(My Venoms are 208gr) and a bit heavy servo(My s6090 is 10gr heavier than the 6040), I end up with a 50,5/49,5 L to R.

Totalweight w/ saddle = 1801g
Totalweight w/ shorty = 1720g

I think it got a bit more punchy, and I still run more than ten minutes with a 3800 mah shorty.

Setupwise I haven't really gotten down a baseline setup I like yet, and since we run only pins in Norway, I don't think it'll do good for you guys on spikes. BTW, can anyone enlighten me on why you mostly run spikes in the UK? BRCA? Pins are faster, more grippy, with about the same wear, and it doesn't tractionroll that easy in my opinion. It does tend to make buggy racing a bit more like onroad though, but still:)