22-4 reliability?
 

How are people finding the reliability and strength of these?

Reading on RCtech the US guys seem to be suffering a lot of broken hing-pins and arms in particular. Are the uk runners finding this or are the big air tracks the US guys make just more punishing?

So far so good here although I have broke a shock tower. It was a inverted landing from a good height at pretty high speed and I think good enough to have broken any car. TLR are recommending we leave out the hinge pin grub screws as a work-around for the early hinge pins which they think are over-hardened. The hinge pin snaps in half where the grub groove is and this leaves the front wishbones only supported at the very front. They then snap when the car gets a bump or some such thing. Mines only been on track a little bit so far but I am impressed with it. Out tmrw at West Bridgeford on carpet so fingers crossed. :thumbsup:

I would say there was more then one or two at maritimes last club night.wish bones and hinge pins.
the temp cure is the ones off one of the sc trucks

Or just use a regular 22 hinge pin...

Ive ran mine on wet astro 5-6 times and only a rear shock tower , happened just like simons

hey, I hit the wall on the back straight in the Swansea club, and broke a wishbone and hinge pin. Right on the grub screw groove. Dropped one in from my 22.

Was going to pick up another 22-4 one tomorrow, but if its a problem part, i might leave the 22 one in for a while.

Has anyone got the part number for these non grooved hinge pins please?

Are they the same surface finish as stock ones?

Front pin is the only thing I've broken so far.

Dan, the ones you want are tlr6079... Or remove the set screw from the ones you have on.

John,

Thanks for that, the picture on the TLR site suggests these are still groved, is that not the case?

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR6079

Cheers.

Hi Dan, I couldnt be bothered taking my pins out of my original 22 2wd (the gold pins) but a look at the manual suggests that they are still groved. But i am not sure its the groove thats causing the problem as the 22 and 22t would have had a few breakages.

A couple of people on the RC tech forum suggest that its the new hardened coating which is making the part a bit more brittle than the original. Taking the set screw out may be enough to stop the part braking as the plastic should be a bit more forgiving.

On rc tech they speak about taking a shock shaft from scte.
A 3mm nuts on one side (front) and an E clip on the back.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hread-184.html

picture in the middle

i am using my 22's buggy rear shock shafts with a nut. Works great :)

The only breakage I have had is the same as the rest, front hinge pin/wishbone. Asside from the the car has taken a pounding of which im sure proves it is strong.

22-4 reliability
 

Run for 1st time over the weekend, broke front wishbone/hinge pin coming off a table top, to be fair I landed at an awkward angle on it.

Apart from that ran fine, seems strong and reliable, if not very tricky to set up!

First run in the car and I broke the same as everyone else. Hinge pin and front arm. Will stock up on spares.

Todd Hodge (The main guy behind the design of the 22-4) recommend taking out the grub screws. The hinge pin still stays in you just have to keep checking it. Iv run mine for about 3/4 weeks without and had no problems with any breakages since.

The old gold look ones, tlr6079, seem to hold up really nice. I've done the shock shaft mod on mine, and that's the best option in my opinion. A lot less sloppy by far.

my boy (decent driver)

snapped front shock tower didnt see crash so cant really comment yet
was driving on low grip surface he did moan about no "turn in"

early days yet looks promising liking totally enclosed gear train :thumbsup:

dave