DBO1 caster blocks
 

I notice that the Dbo1 durga caster blocks look like virtual copies of the 501x WCE alloy blocks. Are the Durga blocks 10 degrees like the stock WCE ones? Are they exact copies (only plastic) of the alloy WCE blocks? If they are not exact copies, do they still bolt on to the 501x?

I am asking because I remember a few guys on here saying how they preferred the feel of the stock 501 plastic castor blocks over the WCE alloy blocks. I happen to like the WCE ones simply because of the extra roll center adjustments they give and would like to try them in plastic for the "feel". With the stock 501 blocks you lose the outer roll center adjustment.

Stock plastic 501X, Durga and alloy 501X are all 10 degrees. the 'stock' position of the alloy blocks is identical to the non-adjustable 501X ones - and I imagine the 'stock' position on the durga is the same. The durga blocks are only height adjustable, the 501X alloy option blocks have three holes to adjust link length but the Durga doesn't have that unfortunately.
in other words, they are definitely not exact copies - but will of course fit since it's all the same suspension and drive train.

thanks Jimmy. So the Durga has a vertically mounted ball stud for height adjustment--but only has one hole as opposed to the WCE blocks which are both vertical and have 3 holes to choose from. It is still a bit better IMO than the stock 501x blocks, which have one horizontal hole--so the only roll center adjustment can be done from the inside.

Been running my xx4 WE lately (when I do run 4wd which hasn't been too often) and its fantastic but I have this gorgeous 501x sitting here and its begging to be wrung out again. I am trying to get a good workable setup--I never had a good setup on it when I ran it originally. The kit WCE setup was CRAZY loose at my track with excessive turn in and no rear bite. I know you prefer the molded pistons, Jimmy--so I thought I would give them a try. With the machined pistons it feels like the shocks are filled with molasses and can't react very quickly.

I've never run a Worlds car - both mine are original cars. The car with big belts however has NEVER had equal diffs like yours - I've always run it with 36 overdrive one way. The 'worlds' has some nice stuff but mostly it's a scant upgrade from the orignal car - more bling and bits you don't need than anything. The big belts are the best bit.

The overdriven front end really settles the car down - makes it easier to drive and plants the rear in loose conditions. I'd imagine the exact opposite - but the proof is in the driving.

Yeah I'm not a fan of the machined pistons - i've had them and lost them in my box somewhere - tried them and it's like going up 20wt all round so ditched them.

I Agree with Jimmy on the overdrive bit. I ALWAYS run a 36T pulley at the front (Diff or oneway). Only on some astro tracks do I use a 37T front pulley.

I disagree on the machined shock pistons. I have been using them for 1,5 year now and most of the Tamiya drivers over here use them too. If the track gets really bumpy or rutted, I use drilled pistons. I found that with the kit pistons it was really hard to get damping consistant.

Machined here as well. I noticed a massive improvement on the consistancy of dampers when going to the aeration dampers. It wasn't the complete shock assembly, it was the major difference in how the damper reacts on the same surface at all four corners.

I have always used the machined pistons that come with the WCE. I noticed the damping seemed pretty stiff with them. Last night I switched front and rear to the molded pistons. I decided to try to set the car up like my BJ4 which is pretty dialed for my track. That equates to Associated #2-35 wt front, Associated #1-30 wt rear. So in went molded #4 tamiya and 35 wt front, and molded #5 tamiya 30 wt rear. I got these piston estimations from Jimmys chart. The damping seems FAR too soft--at least on the bench with these pistons. I haven't driven the car yet, but on the bench it feels alot lighter than 35 and 30 weight feel in any Losi or Associated shock. It looks like I will have to go to a #3 tamiya molded front and #4 rear with the same weight oil OR switch back to the machined pistons. The molded give a lot lighter damping than the machined pistons!!

When you guys say the molded are less consistent--what do you mean? they are different from batch to batch?

They differ from piston to piston !
I don't think the cause is to be found in the hole diameter, but more in the tolerance between piston and shock housing. Anyway, I found the machined piston -allthough stiffer- a lot more consistant and easier to work with.

Would any of you guys have a basic estimation of what each machined piston FEELS equal to in terms of damping/pack compared to a LOsi or Associated. IOW, #3 Tamiya=56 Losi, #2 Assoc. etc. I don't know if those are accurate, I am just making an example.

I know the machined pistons DO give more pack than the same number size molded--but I still feel they require a heavier oil to get the same pack than most of the Losi and Associated pistons.