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3Racing Cactus Build
Well guys & gels, My 3Racing Cactus is here from RC Mart & I think I'll do a build thread to go along with it http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/thumbsup.gif!
I looked at many. many kits for a 1/10 2WD buggy: Intech, Team Durango, Team C, Atomic & so on for my first new build of a 1/10 buggy since 1989! http://imageshack.us/a/img593/2484/ehkd.jpg Its a great bit of kit for the money, & I was surprised with the quality of the kit parts! It even comes with a set of AKA tyres too http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/thumbsup.gif http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/thumbsup.gif I'll be running the HPI Flux Pro ESC & Motor in it (Thanks to Adrenaline models for that), Spektrum SR3100 receiver & a Power HD 1206TG sevo in the front for steering! And so on with the build we go http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s.../hahadance.gif http://imageshack.us/a/img833/9706/y95u.jpg Bag 1 is always a good place to start! http://imageshack.us/a/img15/9303/ckn4.jpg Chassis, front end, rear pin holders & steering bits! http://imageshack.us/a/img69/2474/eas6.jpg Yep nice set of bearing with the kit! Now is that what I think it is? http://imageshack.us/a/img33/9492/myks.jpg Yes it is http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/angrymad.gif! Kit come with anodised pink parts. As nice as the anodising is................it's gotta go. off to the caustic soda it is! I hate pink or purple anodising! http://imageshack.us/a/img824/1969/18x8.jpg Da composite main chassis! All nice & clean out of the box! http://imageshack.us/a/img593/987/mtcj.jpg Bet the bottom of it won't look like that soon! http://imageshack.us/a/img201/6549/nv0p.jpg Front end of the chassis is held on with 4x M3 lock nuts & 4x M3x8 flat head screws. http://imageshack.us/a/img692/4977/zxjy.jpg Screws secure from the bottom. http://imageshack.us/a/img189/3371/swj6.jpg 10 mins & some caustic soda later & that rubbish pink is gone. Hurrah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s.../topbanana.gif http://imageshack.us/a/img28/4558/fn1k.jpg You only want the larger of the alli parts, 4x M3x8 scres & a 0.5mm & 1.0mm suspension mount RF spacers. The RF spacers sit under the pin holder. http://imageshack.us/a/img30/4646/7awt.jpg And screw in to the allow from the bottom. As it's metal to metal I used a little blue threadlock just to be safe. http://imageshack.us/a/img853/6052/5w4u.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img703/9476/ec07.jpg And there we have the chassis up to now! http://imageshack.us/a/img41/2470/c9no.jpg Time to start getting the steering rack build. These parts came on a tree. So snip them off & give em a trim with a knife & start the build with screwing in the 4.8 ball studs. http://imageshack.us/a/img14/8476/qli5.jpg Just like that! http://imageshack.us/a/img24/9955/8gma.jpg & one ball stud in the left steering arm & push the M5x8x2.5 bearing in both the left & right steering arms. http://imageshack.us/a/img850/3235/3q89.jpg Place a 3.02 shim on one of the M3x12. Do two of these! http://imageshack.us/a/img18/1050/58dn.jpg Place two M5.7x5.5 bushings in the steering link. One in each side of the. http://imageshack.us/a/img12/7016/07kg.jpg Push ya screws through aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand.......... http://imageshack.us/a/img809/6538/0i01.jpg Screw down you steering arms to the link! Job done!! http://imageshack.us/a/img36/3703/1wra.jpg Now to mount it to the steering to the chassis using two M3.18 button head screws, two M5.02 shims & two M8.9.2 steering posts. http://imageshack.us/a/img266/2757/uu53.jpg posts, shims & screw go like that! http://imageshack.us/a/img14/2496/vfoh.jpg And you should end up with it looking like that. Check for binding & unscrew until till its gone! |
Felix Law ran a Cactus with Losi shocks at the 2013 worlds.
http://imageshack.us/a/img10/5695/gub3.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img822/6461/q5g1.jpg On with the build we go! http://imageshack.us/a/img844/6263/28gf.jpg Hinge pins, front arms, pin carrier & lower suspension mount red to go. Do a little sanding on the arms to get them to fall under their own weight. http://imageshack.us/a/img842/6169/fvys.jpg Push in the pins. http://imageshack.us/a/img837/4286/2dol.jpg And secure the front pin carrier with two 2.6x6 countersunk screws. http://imageshack.us/a/img199/5162/fj6l.jpg Front bumper and screws ready to bolt the front arms to the chassis. http://imageshack.us/a/img541/9485/t805.jpg Place the front suspension assembly on to the chassis & screw the bulkhead down ion place. http://imageshack.us/a/img11/9751/72cc.jpg Rear M3x16s in first http://imageshack.us/a/img89/1210/jyp3.jpg Then secure the bumper to the front end with the last two M3x16 screws. http://imageshack.us/a/img811/7093/ick6.jpg Bag two here we go! looing for the front shock mount! http://imageshack.us/a/img545/4933/v30h.jpg There it is. Ready for attachment. http://imageshack.us/a/img17/3125/a7aw.jpg A little more de-anodising on the M3x10x1.5 spacers. Slip them over the two 4.8x7 ball studs. http://imageshack.us/a/img22/5152/73bs.jpg And screw into place. I'm going with stock settings for a starting point! http://imageshack.us/a/img24/6083/09q9.jpg Put in place. http://imageshack.us/a/img11/7061/lqag.jpg Screwing to place with the four M3x10 button screws! http://imageshack.us/a/img826/474/4kkf.jpg Tower in place. Seems very sturdy. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/thumbsup.gif |
Looks like a very nice kit, and a nice build threat. :thumbsup:
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http://imageshack.us/a/img703/6089/ocfw.jpg Right up next is the front hubs. Again all nice clean! http://imageshack.us/a/img41/5109/7rg7.jpg Push in the two M5x10 included bearings http://imageshack.us/a/img29/782/ykvt.jpg Screw in a 4.8mm ball stud. http://imageshack.us/a/img5/412/91rc.jpg Push the knuckle are pins through the knuckle arms. http://imageshack.us/a/img841/176/yim1.jpg Place a M5x02 shim over the knuckle arm, then a hex adaptor. http://imageshack.us/a/img12/4661/0mli.jpg Then secure with a M2x12 hub pin. http://imageshack.us/a/img708/8241/21v4.jpg Take your knuckles and & place in the C-hub with an M2.5x7x1 plastic spacer each side of the knuckle. Push pin though & http://imageshack.us/a/img547/848/hmv6.jpg Secure with a M2x4 button head screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img407/7283/nf18.jpg Left & right hubs finished http://imageshack.us/a/img826/9647/3q5p.jpg Next up...........turnbuckles! http://imageshack.us/a/img12/962/55bn.jpg I always take a little bit of plastic out of the ends of the ball caps just for ease of starting them off! http://imageshack.us/a/img849/8619/28i3.jpg The supplied tool helps lots! Make four up & put them a side ready for mounting! http://imageshack.us/a/img542/9725/bizk.jpg Time to mount the C-hub/knuckle assembly. http://imageshack.us/a/img209/5386/xpwx.jpg Two spacers each side of the c-hub, push pin though & secure with a M2x4 screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img31/2527/v8w3.jpg Snap on you four turnbuckles and there you go! |
That looks really nice fella. And the price on rcmart seems to be very good value. How good do the plastics feel??
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looks nice but best get yourself some spare castor blocks and steering knuckles for the front of the car.
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http://imageshack.us/a/img809/3564/hcuw.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img547/2450/io19.jpg Bag 3 & we start the backend! http://imageshack.us/a/img585/3676/npis.jpg I'm building the mid motor chassis so I can do away with these gear box half's. http://imageshack.us/a/img593/8016/ww72.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img30/9694/yhhx.jpg You'll need to make up two 24T idle gears. http://imageshack.us/a/img30/1478/p7nc.jpg Lay shaft came pre-built but I still took it apart & rebuilt it! http://imageshack.us/a/img20/316/fg52.jpg Diff build next! |
http://imageshack.us/a/img833/4456/mbo4.jpg
Although the kit come with ball diff grease, I opted to use the Team Associated. http://imageshack.us/a/img35/5858/irmy.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img197/9390/ntrb.jpg Grease up both Diff half's & Place a spacer/plate over each diff half. Then put a little grease on the plates. http://imageshack.us/a/img22/8530/6jdc.jpg Put a little bit of grease on the diff balls. http://imageshack.us/a/img689/310/yqqa.jpg Place the two 5x8x2.5 bearings in the open ended diff half. One will sit inside & one will sit on top . http://imageshack.us/a/img10/3624/6r89.jpg Place your 52T diff gear over the diff half with the bearings in. http://imageshack.us/a/img600/9421/cfms.jpg The start to put your diff balls into the diff gear. I like to use the diff grease tube so the balls stick to the end! http://imageshack.us/a/img4/7360/ldl9.jpg I just put a smidgen of grease over the balls for good luck! http://imageshack.us/a/img818/118/901e.jpg Place the other half of the diff over the gear. http://imageshack.us/a/img703/161/95vw.jpg And prep the rest of the parts for putting it together. http://imageshack.us/a/img22/8650/sjq0.jpg a M10x0.3 shim & a M10x15x5 on each side of the diff. http://imageshack.us/a/img850/9976/j5rw.jpg Put a little dab of Anti-wear grease on the thrust bearing & place it over the M2.6x22 diff screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img708/9463/jdsx.jpg Put a M2.6 lock nut inside the diff nut, then place the M1.3x2 spring in the end of the diff followed by the diff nut, & place the diff screw into the other side. http://imageshack.us/a/img196/8946/bvww.jpg Tighten down all the way until its time to bed the ball diff in at the end of the build. |
http://imageshack.us/a/img845/6920/fdqx.jpg
Mid motor gear box half's http://imageshack.us/a/img541/5595/1md9.jpg Lay shaft in place! http://imageshack.us/a/img593/9814/rx70.jpg Diff & idle gears in place with grease........ http://imageshack.us/a/img29/8572/jkmr.jpg And that was my first mistake http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...fault/nono.gif . I should have given it a dry fitting as when it went together, it didn't want to close up too well. So after taking it apart once or twice I got it to close! Yay!!................er no. now there's a binding when to turn the gears. So gunna strip it down tomorrow & have little at what might be binding inside! Hmmm not happy about that bit!! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...lt/tantrum.gif |
Great build so far, but if you check the gearbox again and it still feels notchy you will probably just need to run it in a few times, I know because my Cougar was pretty bad (only took 1 race meet and it was butter smooth;))
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Maybe try loosening up the screws that hold both halves together a bit?
I'm surprised there's no pressure bearing in the diff outdrives |
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Seemed to run a lot smoother after being fully build. But it only grinds a little in a certain place when rotated. I have a feeling one if not both idle gear are a little on the poor molding side of things! http://imageshack.us/a/img407/4128/l1ft.jpg Slipper time! http://imageshack.us/a/img23/4085/u9c2.jpg Ruffen up the slipper pads a little. http://imageshack.us/a/img689/2149/g9dk.jpg Place a M2x0.2 shim over the slipper shaft followed by a slipper plate. http://imageshack.us/a/img854/8392/fuq1.jpg Push the slipper pads in place onto the spur gear. http://imageshack.us/a/img822/7336/2pt9.jpg On goes your other slipper plate followed by the spring, slipper spring ring & M4 lock nut. Tighten down all the way ready for setting it up later. http://imageshack.us/a/img17/871/j1ib.jpg You rear end should look something like this by now! Ready for the motor now! http://imageshack.us/a/img46/5637/qcii.jpg As I said at the start I going to be running the HPI Flux Pro system in this buggy. I got mine from Adrenaline Models for a great price!. I'm running a 10.5T motor in this as I didn't want make to quick or the mark! http://imageshack.us/a/img197/4673/d644.jpg Bolted in place. Something missing but can't think what http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...efault/017.gif http://imageshack.us/a/img845/5594/vrh4.jpg Hmm now where do I fit new brushes? http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/imstupid.gif http://imageshack.us/a/img856/2092/bo41.jpg Next up is the gear cover. Slot in the slipper cover & screw it in place a M3.5 screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img802/2474/oz2y.jpg Secure the gear cover to the gearbox with two M3.5 Button head screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img20/9319/mnqq.jpg Place you gearbox assembly onto the rear of the chassis & put four m3x8 flat heads to hold it in place ready for the rear arm build. |
http://imageshack.us/a/img13/4116/bjnz.jpg
Time to put the rear arms together! http://imageshack.us/a/img849/4163/8sl3.jpg Slide a hinge through the arm & place a pivot ball on each end of the hinge pin. http://imageshack.us/a/img547/6031/p4lc.jpg Push the assembled pivot ball/arm assembly in to the pin carrier. http://imageshack.us/a/img845/3170/lqli.jpg Push the rear pin carrier into place. Push the pumper into its slot & bolt into place with M3x16 screw for the rear hols & M3x13 for the front hols. http://imageshack.us/a/img11/2131/frzl.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img826/8784/69rk.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img30/9738/je41.jpg Assembling the rear hubs involves placing an M3x6x2 spacer over a 4.8x7mm ball stud & screwing it into the upright. Place a M5x13x4 bearing in the front of the upright & a M10x15x4 in the rear. http://imageshack.us/a/img196/1883/fpfp.jpg The left & right universal drive shafts are very nicely build http://imageshack.us/a/img42/7049/lpop.jpg Push them into the uprights & fit them with the hexes just like the front. http://imageshack.us/a/img545/6530/syhq.jpg Build up the rear turnbuckles. http://imageshack.us/a/img11/4865/yp6i.jpg Push the hinge pin through the hub end of the arm & place a M2.5x7x1 spacer on to the pin. http://imageshack.us/a/img843/9271/cs42.jpg Place your upright over the pin followed by another M2.5x7x1 spacer. http://imageshack.us/a/img407/600/3y74.jpg Stop the pin from falling out by fitting a M2x4 button head screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img163/4703/t4e7.jpg Bar shocks, rear end done! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...t/thumbsup.gif |
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Wing mount parts! http://imageshack.us/a/img856/3270/6sb5.jpg Screw the mounts to the shock tower with four m3x12 button heads. http://imageshack.us/a/img843/1122/u7on.jpg Then place the two wing spacers over the mount & hold down with body pins. http://imageshack.us/a/img854/9841/qu6w.jpg Right time to get cracking on the shocks! http://imageshack.us/a/img856/6263/tk3z.jpg Start by trimming all the plastic parts of the trees/sprues! http://imageshack.us/a/img834/1720/zigu.jpg I'm going to be putting 1.3 pistons in both front & back but 30w oil in the front & 35w in the rear! http://imageshack.us/a/img547/7028/hykp.jpg First up fit the shaft with a 2.5mm C-clip. http://imageshack.us/a/img571/4910/u288.jpg Slide you piston over the shaft & secure it with another 2.5mm C-clip. http://imageshack.us/a/img23/9762/mniu.jpg shafts ready! Screw adjustment rings onto the shocks! Nice 3Racing emblem on the shock bodies. Nice little touch! http://imageshack.us/a/img703/7783/7i86.jpg Right, time lube up the seals & what not. Instead of the Associated green slim, I opted to try some GMK Shock Snot! It seems to have a thicker viscosity than green slime dose. It seemed to stay on the seals with ease http://imageshack.us/a/img837/7933/u9zc.jpg In order of packing into the bottom of the shock body........O-ring cover, O-ring, O-ring spacer, O-ring, O-ring cover. The screw on the bottom end cap! http://imageshack.us/a/img818/6082/tw6b.jpg Shock shaft & body built! http://imageshack.us/a/img28/8013/rku3.jpg Pre tapping the shock cap with it's bleeder screw. http://imageshack.us/a/img833/1518/qnwt.jpg Shacks filled with oil, end cap on & ball cap in place! http://imageshack.us/a/img34/9028/xojz.jpg Springs & shock ends next. http://imageshack.us/a/img802/5289/lczw.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img209/4613/xtv5.jpg M5.8x6 ball end in the bottom, Damper ball end in the top! http://imageshack.us/a/img708/2739/6tnc.jpg Front shock in place! http://imageshack.us/a/img20/2158/qafy.jpg Rear shocks in place. http://imageshack.us/a/img594/6618/ifs6.jpg & there we have it! Leccy bits next! |
Right.............mounting the servo!
http://imageshack.us/a/img38/6808/ocg8.jpg I opted to run a Power HD 1209TG servo for this buggy. http://imageshack.us/a/img96/834/0c39.jpg Servo post parts ready to be fitted. http://imageshack.us/a/img31/7209/85qk.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img440/2434/56p0.jpg Placement goes post,1mm post shim held in place by M3x8 screw. I added a wash to spread the load on the servo. http://imageshack.us/a/img40/3733/mry4.jpg The servo save parts read to be fitted. Some folk over in the states have chosen to not run the servo save & have gone with a alloy servo arm instead. http://imageshack.us/a/img199/8275/mx9z.jpg Your servo will need to be zeroed at this point. http://imageshack.us/a/img843/3834/3qh7.jpg Fit the spring, place the spring cover over that & tighten down with a M3x18 button head. Then fit the ball stud in the top. http://imageshack.us/a/img31/7807/y25y.jpg Servo arm parts ready to be put together. http://imageshack.us/a/img809/208/v4p5.jpg Servo are ready & snapped into place. I know, I know I missed a pink bit http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/s...efault/078.gif http://imageshack.us/a/img21/6215/pxy1.jpg In place with the bell crank side of the steering arm snapped on. Time to screw it in place. http://imageshack.us/a/img842/7823/rwmw.jpg Screw the servo to the chassis with two M3x8. |
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http://imageshack.us/a/img7/9026/8bxl.jpg Next up is the battery stopper. This fixes to the chassis with two M3x8 flat heads. http://imageshack.us/a/img21/6195/oh6t.jpg Building the swinging battery cover is next on the bill. A little cutting & trimming the spru first! http://imageshack.us/a/img856/333/ngkz.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img194/4876/wzbd.jpg After cleaning up the cover mount, slide an M3x10 though the battery cover & though a flanged tube into the cover mount. http://imageshack.us/a/img20/4153/vh62.jpg Battery tray foam in next. http://imageshack.us/a/img849/1537/5tb1.jpg I opted to fit both centre & side foams. http://imageshack.us/a/img820/2953/qyht.jpg Next locate a square peg in a square hole! http://imageshack.us/a/img547/7748/qzhs.jpg Bolt down your hinged battery cover with two M3x8 screws http://imageshack.us/a/img27/2159/wspg.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img820/4954/v9ka.jpg Locate the mid motor conversion battery post mounts & screw them into place with two M3x22 screws. The screws that came with my kit were more like M3x25's http://imageshack.us/a/img36/1501/9isl.jpg Push the cover into place...................... http://imageshack.us/a/img19/8215/jein.jpg Bolt down the battery cover with the two supplied thumb screws. I'll upgrade the thumb screws to alloy one's at a later date! |
http://imageshack.us/a/img197/2420/uqnx.jpg
DST in place for the ESC! http://imageshack.us/a/img689/4764/hj4i.jpg Set of yellow dish wheels came with the kit. http://imageshack.us/a/img5/1502/70kh.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img11/6330/z2jh.jpg Biggest shock for me with this kit was inclusion of a set of AKA tyres. http://imageshack.us/a/img34/4750/5ym1.jpg You get a set of AKA Three Rib in red compound for the front. Jared Tebo won the 2013 worlds with a set of these! http://imageshack.us/a/img703/729/ql6i.jpg And a set of Impact tyres for the rear also in red compound. Both have AKA red inserts too! http://imageshack.us/a/img202/3665/lv9i.jpg Next up.......................the body shell & it paint job! |
Just finished building a rear motor one minus paint for my son to race, he did not want to race what I race... It is was actually a nice build, impressed with the fit finish and the shocks...Wonder if they will release a gear diff and or a larger spur gear?
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Only other problem I've found apart from the gritty mid gear box is I seem to have wobbly front knuckle arm pins. When I spin my front wheels, My wheels look like they are buckled:( Just waiting on HPI to do something about my ESC. As when I fitted it to my buggy & switched it on, it would just sit flashing at me!! Got power to the servo & fan. Wouldn't go into set up?? |
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