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Lazer ZX5 RTR - ESC/Motor Upgrade Question
Hi All
I have the above and am very pleased with it. I have upgraded the shocks and a couple of other bits, but am starting to feel the need for speed :thumbsup:. Would appreciate some advice, was thinking i would go down the brushed route, maybe second hand. Something like a LRP 7.1 and a 10 single motor, however i understand that brushed motors need quite a lot of looking after. So..... i was looking at the combo Brushless LOSI kits from DMS for £115 quid. However the turn ratings i think are different, so not sure which one to go for. Torn between the 4.5 and 6.5 turn. I am running NIMH 7.2v stick packs and can't afford to change for a while. really not sure which route would be quicker/cheaper/best for the RTR! So there you have my confused thoughts, so any advice gratefully received! Cheers Dave |
brushless is the way to go:)6.5 should be ample,what capacity pack's do you use:confused:
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i have 2 4500 packs and 3 3700 packs. Will that be ok? I want to keep up with the guys that have 12 turn singles in there 4x4's. Driver skill permitting :lol:
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No experience with Losi brushless but would think the 6.5 the best option, good price and seem to be well thought of, we run Novak 5.5 in our original ZX5 and is plenty fast enough for racing. Think about Lipo batteries, if they are accepted for 2009 a lot of drivers will switch to them (means there will be lots of cheap secondhand matched NiMh packs around, starting to see end of season selloffs already), but your club (seenotherpost) may already allow lipo’s for club meetings, lots do. Hope this is helpful :)
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Thanks JC, yeah LIPO is allowed and run by some of the guys with B4's. Some are realy quick! Can't invest yet, as only recently got the NIMH batteries. Just wanted to be sure i would see a good difference with Brushless and the batteries i have and by the sounds of things i will :thumbsup:
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Thanks Dave
Assuming i get the 6.5 any advice on pinion? |
19 to 21 depending on track.
cheers |
Thanks
the 6.5 was out of stock so went for the 4.5 :woot: Purchased a 16t to start with as recommended by DMS. He also mentioned shimming the diff/gearbox. Is there a guide for this anywhere on this site? I had a quick look, but couldn't find one :confused: |
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might be asking a silly question here so just humor me:blush: I have looked at the rear diff diagram and are we basically talking about putting thin washers in behind the small gogs that drive to the back wheels so they push tighter againts the cog that gets powered by the motor. Also would like to add how helpful DMS were this morning when choosing my setup
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I wouldnt go that far........ LOL
The shims go on the inside of the large diff bearing that the outdrive turns on, the side that will push the diff gear across closer to the input drive pinion |
i agree with Darren. when i ran the car i moved one of the thinner shims (can't remember if it was the copper or silver one) from the inside to the outside of the diff gear to push the mesh a little tighter, and never had an issue running a 4.5 last year.
Also if you are going to run a 4.5, make sure your slipper has a tiny bit of slip and is not locked up, otherwise you will eat gears still! |
I am sure its in Jimmy's review somewhere, swap the shim or add a shim to make the diff tighter, http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/zx5/
Not had a lot of problems with diffs, but I know some have stripped gears, don't set the slipper too tight, (as i now notice Jim has suggested) I know this is subjective and a difficult adjustment but it may help to save the diff gears. |
Many thanks guys for all the help, will open up the diff and take a look, have already let the clutch off. Too much i expect, but can always tighten up again. just trying to fit it all under the shell now, a tight fit!
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