B44.1 Indoor Slipper Setup
 

Hi I'm after some advice on how best to set the slipper clutch. I've just rebuilt my diffs and bedded them in which I'm pleased to say has left them smooth, so now I understand them more I want the slipper to work as well as it should do.

I race once a week on a polished wooden gym floor and so far I've ran it pretty much locked out as I noticed it was very punchy. Although this felt good will I likely damage the car in the long run or is this surface forgiving enough? Any input would be appreciated :cool:

If the track is all polished/slippery and basically flat it makes no difference to the car's handling or the slipper - slipper won't work anyway. If you have severe jumps/bumps on the track, loosen the slipper so it will protect the gears on impact. Test the slipper by holding the spur gear so it won't turn, and push the car forwards or backwards on grippy surface like carpet. The wheels should turn when you apply reasonable effort. But don't run slipper too loose on grippy surface or you will melt the spur gear.

Mate you are wrong the the slipper can help on any surface if it's flat polished high grip it all helps you can use the slipper to smooth out the aggresive ness on acceleration and also aid the car when on the brakes.

Set your diffs up to be free but tight and have a play you will find a sweet spot where the car just feels smooth on and off throttle and on the brakes.

Stu

Thanks I have a club night on Monday so ill put it to the test, I'm hoping I notice a big difference as this is the first time I have stripped and overhauled the car since buying 2nd hand. Diffs were really gritty and shock oils unknown and in need of topping up. All now smooth. Also noticed the pinion had a roughed up outer edge as if something has fallen in as its been rotating, filed those smooth and freed it off the spur more making it far freer to turn...

You should have rebuilt the car when you purchased it.

What motor and esc do you run

Stu

Yeah at least this way I hope to notice the difference of a well maintained car! motor is a hobbyking Xcar sensored 6.5T and matching ESC

How big is the race track what tyres are you using

Typical school/college gym and using Schumacher yellow full spikes

two 5 a side courts, side by side.....;)

Yes that'll about describe it dexter :)

Hi

sounds to me you are a little over powered if it was me id drop to a 10.5 and use the boost turbo settings to smooth out the bottom end throttle whilst keeping the top speed good.

also mini spikes will give more forward traction on acceleration than full spikes.

the full spikes tend to have more side bite.

we use full spikes at FORCC as we tend to have lots of change of direction.

mini spikes can be just as fast i find the mini spikes tend to under steer going in and are a touch lazy left to right but having said that changing the setup will fix this.

i hope this helps

stu

If your looking for more forward traction you can also mess around with different hubs!
0.5 or 1.0 degree extra toe in
And also the anti squat washer you fit!
Try it without and with!

Ok I've searched the net on anti squat washers but I'm resigned to asking where this washer is located?!? The rear toe has been mentioned before but for £30 a pop for small bits of alloy I thought I'd try harder with my driving first lol.

Check the link out mate.....

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11731744-post2584.html

increase or decrease the amount of #4 washers in the pic (6936) to give you the anti squat you want.....!!!

And if I remember rightly running at tyne met will be better to take the #4 anti squat washers out as the track is mainly smooth wooden floor........;)

Should get yourself to seaham tonight for 6pm....will be plenty of people to help or give advice on your B44.1 setup......were more friendly than the touring car lot at tyne met ;) ha ha

Ah one fell out as I stripped the car down so I just left it out as there was only one side fitted! Looks like I set the car up without knowing it! I will make it down sometime soon!