Hop ups for DEX210 on initial build?
 

Evening,

about to purchase a DEX210 and would like to know what you guys are running, hop up wise? I assume some form of weight in the front and change out the steering assembly?

Chris

In a similar position as you.
Bits upgraded so far:
Shock collars with o-rings.
Tresrey 16pc spacer set.
Brass bulkhead.
Alloy steering block plate.

After building the so called pro kit,i was quite disappointed to find the large amount of non-alloy bits,especially spacers/washers which would cost pence to put in there.
In hindsight,i should have got the RTR kit for about the same price,and paid tthe extra tenner or so for the mid-motor bits.

that's why I got the rtr last month as didn't seem loads of different and get a motor with it plus sold the controls on ebay for £25 :)
upgrades I have done so far are carbon towers, carbon steering plate and have some alloy 14mm hex rear wheel mounts coming and parts to change to mid motor

That's really all you might need:

CF towers, but I'm doing fine on stock ones.
If on rear stock put a 1mm spacer between the tower and gearbox

Hexes well i did ok with the stock one for quite a while then swapped out for alu ones. If you don't use tresrey locking ones then put some shoe gooe or silicone in the hex slot to help them stop falling out.

Steering rack, I think TD have upgraded that but its still flimsy so the alu or CF ones are a good choice

Shock collars... yes and no you can lightly score/scrape the thread so its not like new, but I do have the alu ones

I think other than that the rest is bling

Which pro kit is that? Is it just the, um, kit version as opposed to the RTR? (Hint, there is only one kit version, no R and no full fat.....)

And in answer to the OP.......

Which of the suspension hangers are plastic on the kit now? Is it just the FR?
If it is, its worth upgrading that to a tresrey or RDRP aluminium one, the plastic one lasts *fairly* well, but it is a bit of a weak link, and can lead to lots of swearing if it breaks!

So, just to clarify, from the people that have responded this far ( thanks for your responses btw), no one is running a brass bulkhead and/or the under servo weight?

I have tried the brass bulkhead several times, but always reverted back from it, the car just seems too nose heavy, I think it works if youare running really hot motors and with a very aggressive style, like J. Neumann. But for most I've seen the car work better without it. We do tend to use the cream under servo weight, and an alu bulkhead, or run with the plastic bulkhead and add weight on the servo.

My reccomendation for you would be to get the under servo weight and add stick-on weights to the servo as needed.

This is hat we mainly use on astro and carpet.

/Greger

I have the alloy bulkhead, a brass steering link and the underservo weight, i took the underservo weight out as it just got too nose heavy.
It's only in the car now as one of the jumps on our track is a nightmare in the wind, it was 50/50 if i'd flip the car when we got a gust at the wrong moment! The weight just kept it a bit more nose down. I'd prefer dealing with a bit nose down on every jump than on the roof every other lap!! It'll come out next time i have the servo out. (Unless its windy.)

The brass steering link is probably overkill, but its a pain to take out.
And the aluminium bulkhead is (really) just bling, even with my driving i didn't manage to break the original bulkhead.

As Greger says, getting one, or other, but not both, and then sticking weights on would be the best (and cheapest) solution, until you decide what you want.
And TBH, none of the are really *needed*. Just nice to have. The benefit they give can easily be replicated with sticky weights.

Bits you will need

Alloy hexes to replace the plastic ones
The hardened TD layshaft spacer to replace the kit (if it is not a later kit with the hardened one in it)
Alloy spacer set as the plastic ones are usless
Tamiya O rings for the shocks (last longer and seal better)

Apart from that everything else is more additional bling than anything. I have run the standard towers since getting the car, the Carbon and Alloy one's are overkill. I have also added alloy battery thumb screws purely so that they dont strip like the plastic ones can, but if your careful they will also last anyway.

I have updated other parts, but they are more choice than necessary

Sterring wise I put an exotek steering bar in, but the arms are standard plastic

Exotek shock collars and rear hubs. Tresrey RR + FR suspension blocks (wanted more than 3deg and more kickup)

Changed ball ends to TOP titanium and RPM ballsockets

Thats about it

I'm running out of stock parts on mine - its quicker to list what I haven't changed!

However my 'new build essentials' woulod be:

Hardened layshaft (if not standard)
Ceramic Diff balls and thrust balls (the diffs are fiddly to build so better not not need to often)
Alloy/Carbon steering link - the stock one is too flexy for my liking.

Those are the things I'd change from the off, mostly as they are the ones I won't want to have to dismantle the car to sort later. Towers, hexes etc you may or may not want but are an easy swap if you decide you do.

I'm using the Tresrey front bulkhead but thats only a little heavier than the plastic one. However I run a rather heavy Ace 1015 servo which means I've no brass weights anywhere on my car.

Hardened layshaft
alloy/carbon steering
alloy hexes(Tresrey clamping ones are my recommendation as they clamp around the pin)
Ceramic Diff balls
Schumacher or Associated slipper pads(I use Associated as they are a direct fit)

if your building the kit rather than going the RTR route then the best piece of advice i can give is watch the vids on the TD website on how to build the diff and pay close attention to what your doing when you build it and you shouldn't have any bother at all