B-Max 2 Battery Position
 

Hi,

Is it possible to run the B max 2 MR with side by side saddle packs AND rear motor?

I could not find this in the manual - is there a reason?

Thanks,

Alex

I think when you build it in rear motor it uses a different battery brace but I'm sure you could get it to fit with a bit of modification.

Not seen one in rear mode yet.

Thanks, do you think this makes sense on low grip tracks?

I saw in your signature that you own a RB6 as well. Which car do you prefer? Which would you recomend for low grip tracks?

Thanks!

I think when running rear motor the battery placement may be better up the middle. I've never saw a rear motored car with saddles.

Re RB6 v Yokomo, I've been running the RB6 at nationals and I like it.
I ran the Yok for the first time outdoors on Sunday. It was okay. I messed around with weights and battery placement. Ran a shorty forward, shorty rear but my fastest time was with saddles. Not much in it.

Hard to say what the best between them is.

If you were to use saddles side by side you would have to cut the battery/chassis braces running along the chassis on each side.
This will add considerable flex to the chassis since you cant use the battery brace for the mid engine setup.
To regain the stiffness you would have to fabricate a battery brace that ties the front portion of the chassis to the rear stiffener/tower ;)

A lot of work for no real benefit at all really.

Most use a shorty pack around the middle position and add 10-20 grams of weight in front of the gearbox for dirt/clay tracks.

Works awesome on dirt (the little we have tested on dirt so far) :thumbsup:

If you only have saddle packs run them inline like a full stick pack ;)

So far we are extremely happy with the performance and durability of the B-Max2MR.

We are also running the Avid Triad slipper system as well as B-Fast diffs :wub

Bent

Surface ? Dirt ?

Bent

Surface was astro/grass. Car was a handful when the grass began to wear.

Which triad slipper are you using?

Weight !

We raced on astro just last week and worked on the car and setup for 2 days.

What made the biggest difference was the added weight.

Ran the 40g Cream bulkhead, 10g in front of the servo, 20g at the servo, 10g at the ESC (Tekin RS Pro) and 110g brass weight under the saddles !

Ran 2 x 1.6 pistons front/rear, AE 35F/30R, Red Avid front and Yellow Avid rear springs.

It worked awesome :thumbsup:



Bent

We run:
AV1020-Mod Slipper set (81 & 84 Spur)
AV1020-TOP-KYO Triad top shaft
Kyosho 96643 Shim set

Use 4mm of shims on the topshaft inside the gearbox towards the spur and 0.5mm towards the other bearing.

Build the rest according to the instructions included with the slipper set ;)

Smooth as butter, lighter topshaft (CNC aluminum), absolutely no play and a much wider adjustment range on the slipper compared to stock :D

We run 22/81 with a Tekin Gen2 6.5T

Bent

Thanks for the help!

Did someone in the meantime find out how to use Durango rims on the Yokomo?

does it all fit underneath the kit spur gear cover?

Yes....plenty of space :thumbsup:

Bent

Use the money spent on parts trying to convert to Durango on AE front axles and run AE (and similar) wheels (hex or pin in the rear).

We run AE wheels as they are the easiest to get hold of (and cheap) ;)

Bent

Hi Bent,

Thanks for your excellent help on both forums:thumbsup:

The problem is that I have lots of Durang rims left, so let's see what to do...


I am still not sure if I should buy the Yokomo or the RB6...I just want a car with little maintenance (compared to my Dex210)...
hmmm:drool:

No problem ;)

Sell the wheels with the DEX or in a separate trade.

If you buy the AE front axle you can run the AE B4 wheels as they are cheap and plenty durable.

When we bought the B-Max2 our choice were to stay with AE (had B4.1), buy the RB6 or the B-Max2.

We ended up choosing the B-Max2 after watching and talking to drivers of both cars here in Norway.

On astro and high grip clay they perform very much the same, but on outdoor dirt and loose surfaces the B-Max2 IMHO feels easier to drive and setup.

And as a bonus it's much more durable and easier to wrench on then the B4.1.2 series.

Yokomo is also releasing Kyosho style aluminum chassis for the B-Max2 which will be used on our Mid cars for high grip astro etc. ;)

Either of the 2 will get you a car with greater potential then yourself :thumbsup:

Bent

Thanks again ;)

I am driving most of the time on low traction dirt track - so the Yokomo might be the better solution due to the plastic chassis...

How is the Yokomo Diff? does it work out of the box? Is it necessary to buy the b fast diff rings?
To be honest that are the topics I hate on my Durango: I tuned almost everything and it is still not perfect. I hope that the Yokomo performs out of the box and needs little maintenance ;)

If low traction dirt is where you spend most of your driving I would definitely go for the B-Max2.

It's easier to get "right" then the RB6, it's easy to drive and it works very well with the kit setup and right tires. Very similar to the AE B4.2 in terms of ease of handling.

The Yokomo diff works as well as AE's (which I have most experience tuning), but instead of grinding flat the included diff rings I buy the hardened and machined B-fast rings. If you also opt for the pro driver kit with ceramic thrust balls and carbide diff balls you will have a diff with almost no maintenance at all.

I usually tear the diff down, clean and re-grease once a month (with 3-4 sessions a week) when driving outside on loose dirt.
Clay and hard pack sees several months of use between maintenance.

Still haven't replaced a diff so far :D

Or you can opt for the gear diff (machined gears are due out this month).

Myself I find the Yokomo easy to wrench on (have built 3 now) ;)

Bent

Thanks!

2 more questions:

-Do I really need a low profile servo if I use a stick pack on RM (when i put the ESC behind the battery)?

-Do you use the Aluminum Rear Hub Carrier Set?

:thumbsup:

If you want to put the ESC on the main chassis behind a full stick pack you will need a LP servo, BUT this will put too much weight forward.
A shorty pack is used when mounting the ESC behind the battery on the main chassis.
If you want to use the full stick pack AND mount the ESC inline with the battery there's a shelf for it just over the battery attached to the rear brace and shock tower ;)
Personally I prefer to mount the receiver and ESC on either side as this gives you much more room to shift weight around and alternate between a shorty and stick pack ;)

We run the following option parts on ours:
-New 0 degree alu. hubs (BM-415R00)
-Titanium turnbuckles with white rod ends
-Avid springs
-Yokomo machined 2-hole delrin pistons (2x1.6 F/R at the moment)
-Avid triad slipper with Avid machined alu. topshaft
-B-Fast pro driver diff kit (ceramic thrust/carbide diff balls)
-Yokomo AE option front axle
-JConcepts 6.5" wing for the B-Max2
-No servo saver (Racers Edge alu. horn)

Best 2WD I've driven so far :D

Only thing we've broken is a front chassis part after a head on collision with a 2"x4" at the end of the straight.
Still amazed nothing else broke :eh?:

Bent