Struggling to build the shock correctly
 

every time i rebuild the shock on the B4 i cannot get them to bleed evenly and feel the same.also how do u remove all the air out of the shocks. there is still air in the oil after letting them stand for 24hrs. Any Tips or tricks would helpful.

The shocks are designed to have a little air in there? I don't have a big problem bleeding the AE shocks myself - but don't worry about a little air, it's supposed to be there.

i am crap at getting them right. i would like someone to show me when i get to a local meet so i understand what the heck i am doing wrong!

What club do you race at? Or what region are you in?

It's easy enough really. Here goes stepby step.

1. Fill oil into shock until up to abou 2mm of top.
2. push shaft up slowly, wait 5 seconds and pull back down again slowly to let air out from under piston.
3. Wait for air bubbles to get out of the oil.
4. Push shaft until piston is about 2-3mm from top of shock (top up with oil until it's just over level with piston up)
5. fill cap with oil up to threads
6. put cap on shock quickly and tighten quickly.
7. Finished.

If you have too much rebound unscrew the cap a little and push the shaft in a bit and re-tighten.
You can play around with the piston height before you fill and tighten to get differnet rebound rates, which will give you different handling characteristics.

On my B44 I had to do the "snap" thing, with that little plastic tool they include in the kit.
Page 5 of the B44 manual.

That's probably the same problem this guy is having, because if you dont
they will leak. Been there, done that.

But Sparrow's way above is pretty accurate. He just forgot this step.

Have you actually read the guys question???

have you :)

he still has air in the shocks after 24 hours..so it looks like it could be leaking somewhere,hence the reply that he may not have the bottom o'rings and plastic inserts snapped in place correctly.

yes he has actually , he says after 24 hours there is still air !!!
well if you build them and they have air in,then 24 hrs later it will still be in there as it has no where to go .. nothing to do with the o'rings or plastic bits at all ..

try yokomo shock caps with the bleed screw, there a piece of piss to bleed.

your assuming he has them stood with the shock cap on of course..but have to agree about the yoko caps,make it so much easier to bleed correctly.

Haven't tried the Yokomo caps. Do they make the shocks feel any different? Do they change damping properties and/or do you have to compensate with the setup?

Yeah changed the o rings

still can't get the rebound equal enough. thinking about buying a Losi shock tool.

Is it normal when you first screw the cap on the you cannot compress the shock. I alway had trouble with AE shocks I am thinking about getting some yokomo caps with the bleed valve on them.

How do people make build these shock properly is there some black art to them? The tamiya shocks are so much easier to build and setup with no leakage...

I found this article to be very useful when building my shocks. TBH I think the AE shocks are superb and have never had a single problem with them.
http://users.pandora.be/elvo/12/8 Hope this helps a bit :thumbsup:.

Theres no black art, it's just experience ;)

When I do mine I fill them to be level with the top of the shock with the shaft fully out, screw the shock top on slightly, then push the shaft in slowly right to the top so some oil bleeds out and with the shaft still fully in screw the top fully on. If you cant push the shaft all the way in, keep the shock upright, unscrew the top slightly to let a bit of oil out then screw it back on again.

It's normal to have a little bit of an air gap if the shock has been sat a while, when you work the shock in and out a bit you'll find it disappears as the air mixes with the oil.

still how do you get the rebound equal one seem softer than the other and rebound at slightly different speeds. though i am not sure if it the springs or not changing the feel of the dampers.

It's not critical they are both perfect (at least not in my experience), differences of 5mm or so I can't feel on the track. So long as none of them get to the point of hydraulic lock on full compression you're fine :)

Things like the condition of the shock seals or the coating on the shock shaft can make a big difference to how far/fast the shock rebounds, so unless you have new seals and shafts every time you refill the shock don't worry too much if they are slightly different.

well fixed it now they all needed new o-rings lucky i had a shock rebuild kit in the spares bin to solve the problem. what are these white o rings i hear about are they better and do the last longer

yes and yes,see northy on here or nortech.co.uk i think it is well worth having

wrong address

http://www.nortechracing.co.uk/

there u go