Sv2 chassis tweak
 

Is it common to experience chassis tweak on the sv2 due to the double deck carbon chassis?
The car handles brilliantly, well when turning right it does but does hook wildly when steering to the left making it difficult to drive.
What should I check to help cure this? Could it be as simple as uneven camber as it seems about right or could it possibly be a servo problem or even chassis tweak?

Please could you let me know your issues and what cured it?


Chris

Just wondering, do you screw the top deck down or do you use bodyclips? I use clips and have never experienced that, and I have never known tweak on the chassis. I have had servo issues and that is what it sounds like to me. Also check your chassis is perfectly straight.

Alans does exactly the same thing, in a straight line it turns slightly,

Does the car have the same amount of left and right steering?

I found my problem.... the servo

I find mine pulls to the right when breaking hard but tracks straight and handles awesome

Check your caster blocks you my have an odd one on your car.

Thanks for the input lads,

Some interesting comments there that I will look into. I'm going to strip the car down later and recheck all the geometry to make sure everything is as it should be.
Something worth sharing that Tom from Schumacher suggested is to look at the front hubs if you are experiencing under/oversteer to one side only. The hubs come with a small moulded stopper which limits the amount of steering travel the servo can offer. These lugs can break off in a crash so check your car to make sure both your hubs are the same. These lugs can also be removed with a hobby knife if you do require more steering than with the limiters.

I found my right hub had the stopper and the left didn't (I was donated the left hub by a team driver after a breakage who had removed the limiters) despite this I'm still not totally sure that this will solve my problem as the oversteer I'm experiencing changed from when turning right to turning left last week after just resetting my EPA's?

Despite this I felt it was worth letting you into what I've been told.


Chris

Probably is this, the steering hub with the lug missing will turn in tighter and could be causing the car to hook in one direction.

And Tom is GOD, so its definitely right.

I glued thicker lugs on to my steering hubs because i wanted less lock but i like steering when the inside wheel is locked in a certain position when on full lock, not flopping around.

Would be nice if schumacher (or any manufacturer) made these with a grub screw so you could adjust the full lock lockout.

Cough
;)

Yes hence I reset all the EPA's.


Mike, why didn't you just limit the amount of steering through your radio rather than glueing on larger lugs? As I have mentioned this may not be quite as simple as matching the hubs as the car suffered the same snatchy oversteer to the right before I broke a hub at southport and replaced it with another off Woody that had the lug removed.
I ran the car at Bury indoor a few weeks ago and was still suffering with oversteer to the right.

Oddly though, I took the car to Bury Metro outdoor the other day for a bit of testing. I'd been running my rear shock tower lower on the mount by drilling new mounting holes 4mm higher than the originals to give the rear more droop. Out of curiosity I remounted the shock tower to the original holes and headed up to the track for testing. I was still experiencing oversteer but this time to the left not the right!!!
The only thing I had changed on the car was to remount the shock tower 4mm higher, fit BB green spikes on the rear, Schumacher green cut staggers up front and reset my EPA's to equal and now I have the opposite problem?

Strange eh?


Chris

Double post :blush:

Because if you just limit the lock on the EPA or or turn Down the ATL the inside wheel wont be locked against anything, and will just flap around.

Try it on the bench, turn the car on and hold the TX to full lock and then wiggle the indside wheel.

When turning in the resistance on inside wheel will cause it to move about if its not locked against the hub and i find this is what made my car hook randomly, and yes i had lost a lug when this started to happen and thats why i glued new lugs on. Bigger lugs to reduce the overall lock this was just personal preference i found the cougar was a very aggresive steerer.

Sorry to take over the thread a little, but my car is not aggresive in the turns at all. Would the trishbits weight help? It has ok turn in but washes out massively midway through the turn. Thanks for any help

Felix, the TrishBits nose weight will give a more direct steering feel mainly into the corner on power as there is more weight pushing the nose into the ground therefore more front end grip. It will offer a little more mid to exit steering also but i feel it helps more with the on power feel.

Have you bought the optional camber link plate set? The standard kit front camber mounting plate is very narrow meaning the front turnbuckle links are very long. The optional set has much wider plate options meaning you can run shorter front links which in my experience give a more consistent feel through the corner, if you are looking at spending 20 quid on the weight I would wait and get this set first if I was you.
You could also gain a little more mid to exit steering with the standard plate by lowering the inner ball stud. The kit I think say to run a 2mm washer under there but I would remove the washer altogether and give it a try, subtle changes in the roll centre like this can make a huge difference to the feel of the car.

Finally, are you still using the kit 0deg caster blocks? The 0deg blocks will give plenty of entry steering but less mid to exit, we use the 5deg blocks as do most of the Schumacher team for that matter on astro as it calms the car down a little and makes it easier to drive.

One this worth mentioning Felix is that the Southport indoor track is like no other surface I've raced on. There is so much bite that your car will feel a little unsteady as the car can change direction so quickly. My car for example was a real handful at the last turf wars meeting, I just could not get any consistency with it yet went to Bury Metro outdoor the other day with the same setup and the car was on rails when the bite wasn't as high.

Chris

I am running the 0 deg blocks, I was going to get the 5 degree ones at some point. I haven't got the link plate set but I have dropped the ballstud. We'll see how it goes on sunday:D

dropping the ball stud will give more turn in