Rear Weight for Low Grip
 

I've been looking at the rear weights that you can get from Tresrey and RDRP:-

http://www.tresrey.com/tresrey/produ...td098_eng.html

http://www.revolution-rc.com/our-pro...eight-set.html

I get the idea that they are to improve the weight balance of the car while in MM format, to give more of the drivability of the RM without going the whole hog and changing the gearbox around. This is for low grip track surfaces so should benefit when driving on polished wood floors etc.

Plus, as the grip levels improve, you can always remove the weight quicker than you could change the chassis layout :)

I was wondering if anyone has used either of these? If they found them to be an advantage or useful tuning aid?

I ask because the Tresrey adds 24g and the RDRP is 50g which seems a big difference in options (although the Tresrey is more expensive for less weight :eh?: ) and I'm not really wanting to fork out cash for the wrong one e.g find that the Tresrey makes almost no difference, or , that the RDRP makes too much of a change too far :cry:

Any help would be appreciated! :thumbsup:

P.S. I've only been driving for 3months now so pretty much everything is new still :blush:

Some may disagree but I would use the money and spend it on tyres and just practice, practice, practice. Weight can make a little difference but unless you can get around the track at a decent speed without crashing then all the weight in the world won't make much difference.

Try get the car set up without weight as a car with without weight should generally be quicker, adding large weights at the back like the 2 you have suggested can cause the car to sway more and cause the back end to come round on itself. Cream on here does some some weights which replace the lipo stops 20g for front and 20g for rear which doesn't put the weight as far back, could also try them but depending on your skill level at the minute would definitely spend the money on tyres. :woot:

Thanks for the reply so quick! :D

Would the weight not "dull" down the back of the car more, as it would increase it's inertia, making it more drivable on low grip tracks?

Obviously, the inertia works in both ways, so once it does break traction it is more severe (like a 911), but this is the trade off I was looking for advice on I guess too. :confused:

I get that a lighter car should always be quicker, but I would have thought consistency over multiple laps would be more preferred than single lap speed? So if the weight provides this there would be a competitive advantage to it? But as you say, that is up to debate! :rolleyes:

I hav the RDRP weight and we race on polished wood and if your running mini spikes the weight really helps and u dont need it so much if running the dboots nanbytes in b compound, i feel mid motor is quicker on polished wood if u hav the grip and the weight gives you the grip

I also do a rear weight ;)

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95306

26g nice and low ;)

Lots of weight options..
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104735

bit of shameless promoting :blush:

Best thing to do is get some schuey yellow mini spikes all round.
Not myself and David were running weight in our 210's and eventually got rid.
Weight at the rear causes the car to spin out more as there is too much weight at the rear.
What can help would be a smaller spur, this would help push your motor just a bit further back.
I have some sticky weights your welcome to try and play with on Sunday. See what it does for you before buying something better

In honesty I ran a Tresrey 24g weight and found the car worse for it. It didn't jump right and made the rear end seem to be dragged around the corner, then become like a pendulm after it making the rear end seem to carry on even though driving straight out the corner.

Im running at Maritime, so its wooden floor boards which are really low grip, painted wood, gym/rubber matts and carpet.

One of the members at my club uses the DEX210 in MM4 only - our club track is clay (no blue groove) :) And he's a front runner at both club level and scores well in the nationals!

He couldn't get the RM3 layout to work nearly as well as the MM4 layout even on lower grip tracks. One of the things he plays around with on his car are these rear chassis weights - that, and about 10g of extra weight between motor and transmission. Other things he works with are lead plates to shim in front and/or behind the battery and different sizes of spur gear to move the motor to the front or rear.

I don't have a DEX210, but I too found weight balance is a pretty powerful tool. From what I've been told/taught, it is not just the weight balance that is important, it is also how is distributed over the chassis. Placing weight in the extremities of the car increases inertia. Turning/changing direction will be slower, and a lot of weight far at the back makes the rear tend to slide/sweep out - this means oversteer can less easily be corrected when it occurs. So if you have a powerful motor in your car, don't mind putting more weight in the car but more towards the center (to end up with the same change in weight balance overall).

All in all I would say, if you can find a fellow 210 owner who can borrow you some weight sets (of whatever kind really), grab the chance anf try it out! If you can't, I think they're still nice for in your toolbox. Indoors you may not need it unless your track is tight and has low grip sections (like wood), outdoors it will prove useful in the wet, or on dirty astroturf (I was on a track last year that had some algea growing on parts of the track - it stayed moist and slippery over the whole day even in sunny conditions).

I had a suspicion that the Tresrey weight, at only 26g may be not weighty enough as it will still allow some swing in the rear, but the added inertia will make it harder to stop that swing (so con with no pro) :cry:

I was thinking that the RDRP weight, at twice the Tresrey one, would have the weight needed to stop the initial swinging in the first place, but of course if you get it wrong it will be much, much worse than the Tresrey (but at least there is the pro if you don't go beyond the limit) :eh?:

As for the jumping balance issue, could a small amount of weight at the front (say 10g or so) be used just to balance out the buggy in flight? Although this would depend on if your club runs tracks with big air jumps as to how prevelent this problem would be???

:thumbsup:
Good advice, try the cheap weights first to see how they affect the car. You can do a few laps with them on, then get someone to pull them off to feel the difference. This is what I did with my Cougar, tried sticky weights on the front before buying Trish's weight kit.

This gets my vote as being the 2 best ways of getting better and faster.........practice,pratice,practice.........t ires,tires,tires !!!

:thumbsup:

Thanks for the advice and information, it's always appreciated :thumbsup:

It still amazes me how many people check this site out and are willing to help out strangers/newbies like me :woot:

I have taken the plunge and purchased the RDRP one as I've been trying to find places to add the weight at the rear, but the DEX210 has limited room at the rear to try my stickies on :thumbdown:

Even if I don't use it a lot, it will be useful to see what happens and keep it in my kit bag. I always like to see what people think and try stuff out, as I feel sometimes trying and seeing something that doesn't work can be just as helpful as going the right route. :)

Thanks again all :thumbsup:

Without question the best thing you can do to a 210 to get it working wonderfully on low grip (indoors sports hall for example) is put on a Dimec20 chassis and the cab forward +8mm shell.

I've seen lots of people run we with this - no extra weight needed.
I ran mine for the 1st time on worn pins all round and it was epic.

Totally transforms the car - that's what I'd heard and it's true :)

i switched from running the standard chassis to the dimec20 and the car was a little better but i still had weight front and rear. Took out ALL the weight as well as fitting the standard rear shock tower in place of the carbon one and the car was transformed!