Spring Help!
 

Hi all, need some help!

I bought some light green front springs (W5181-75) and upon comparing them to the silver fronts (W5181-75) they are shorter and softer :confused:

I thought the light greens are supposed to be harder than silver. Have I missed something or been sold the wrong spring?

Cheers, Martyn

Does sound a bit odd, were the springs new and packaged in the usual Kyosho style bag? Are your silver springs the kit springs, or did you buy the car 2nd hand (as I did with mine!)

Just thinking perhaps the light greens are ok but maybe previous owner swapped kyosho kit silvers for say Silver Losi springs which may be a bit harder and longer than Kyosho giving you the impression that the light greens are short and soft if you see what I mean?

Hi Ted,

Silvers are the ZX-5 ones and not the one that come with the RB5. Springs were brought new from a reputable model shop and in the authentic Kyosho packaging.

You are right on both counts, the front 75 are both shorter and softer (certainly not harder) than the kit 70s.

Rumour is that later production 75 are longer, but I have never seen any myself.

If you are looking for something stiff, get some 80 rears and cut down.

The #75 light greens are stiffer that the silvers (#70), although only slightly as Kyoshos spring spacing is tight even by the standards of Yokomo!!!! You have to go 4-5 spring grades at the rear to go 1 gap in Losi terms!!!

The #75 spring IS shorter than all the other Kyosho springs, approx 5mm.

there are a couple of spring charts on here which show kyosho springs, I still have to finish mine as I no longer have time to race let alone work this sort of stuff out!!!

Edit ...... the #75 springs are definately harder than #70s .... I've measured them on a £40k spring tester at work which reads to 0.001N and 1µm with great accuracy and repeatability! I do need to get my spring chart out in public .... just need some time to collate the results!!

How long are the silver springs (uncompressed)?

Are the colored ones then shorter?

front silver's,are stiffer then front light green's;)that's why they don't make front dark green's:confused:are know your kyosho man:pbut this is my conclusion:D

front silver's,are stiffer then front light green's;)that's why they don't make front dark green's:confused:i know your kyosho man:pbut this is my conclusion:D

Must have a different spring to me then because the light greens i have are defiantley softer than the silver. Will have to post um to you Roger to test!!!!

Forgeting the light green! Is there a harder front spring than the silver?

Most Kyosho front springs are 45mm long.

My spring tester at work and my Losi shock tool both tell me that the light green springs are stiffer than the kit silvers.

There is no need for a dark green front, the only place I use the light green #75 spring is on carpet and then very rarely!!!

I almost exclusively run silver fronts on both the RB5 and ZX5-SP now, sometimes I run silvers with 1.5 coils cut off to give more spring stiffness but maintain the spring rate (same reason why some of the Losi boys run cut silvers on the front of the XX4).

I have always considered that the springs / damping are there to deal with the surface, the weight distribution of a car the handling balance and the geometry to tune ....... with that in mind I can't imagine why you'd want to run anything stiffer than a silver anyway!

it'd be really interesting to see your set-up and a description of the surface / track.

I'm not sure how up to date/ useful this is, but somebody may update and re-post: -

Spring rates for many different types losi assoc etc etc

http://gallery.myff.org/gallery/172880/Spring+Rates.xls

Hi Roger,

I run at Coventry on the grass & astro but in this instance I was running at my local club www.hinckleyrccc.co.uk which is a flat grass track. Initially the track is very grippy and I wanted to experiment with some setup changes like a harder spring to see if this improved the balance during these conditions.

Current setup
Front
35wt (Much More) - Silver #70 - 2C piston
Middle hole on tower - Inside on arm
Inner link position middle hole +1mm shim- Outer position inner hole
Hubs forward - 30 deg caster
20g under steering rack + 20g on servo

Rear
30wt (much more) - Purple #72 - 2B piston
Outer hole on tower - Inside on arm
Inner link position middle +2mm shim - Outer position inner on hub +2mm shim
Wheel base middle
Reversed rear block

Other
2008 rear conversion kit with a new lower Atomic Carbon shock tower
Schumacher yellow mini spikes all round
Track power 4900 lipo forward position

that should about cover it...:woot:

There is your problem!!!!!!!!!!!

I NEVER run in the inner wishbone holes front or rear any more for exactly the reasons you are experiencing!!!

Run outer hole in the front and middle hole in the rear wishbones.

Shock lengths 20mm between cartridge base and shock eyelet front and rear shocks (will check for sure but I believe it is 28mm for the same measurement). To achieve this you either need to run the 54mm shock shafts or the normal 50mm ones with the eyelet unscrewed a few turns.

You will need to run in the very outer most hole on the new Atomic Carbon shock tower and you might find that the car is more consistent running the rear link outer hole on the hub (between 2 and 4mm under ball stud ..... normally 2mm) and with no washers under the inner ball stud.

If you want to make the rear feel more alive then try 35wt oil which slows the transistion a little.
Set ride height so that the rear shafts are just below level (inner end lower than outer end) and the front end so at rest it is 1-2mm lower than the rear.

See if that helps

Cells forward at all times!

Cheers Roger

Camber link length I have already changed, though the damp came down at Cov before my last run so wasn't able to get a true feeling of it. Knackered schui yellows and damp astro is not good :thumbdown:
Will test out some of your recomendations over this coming weekend and let you know how i get on.

I have some of the 54mm shock shafts and tired them in the shorter shock bodies which creates mega droop! Had to put a 2mm washer on the shaft to prevent the piston hitting the cap, but I've never run them like it.

Do you run 54mm shaft with the standard rear shock bodies or the shorter velvet ones?

I run the standard length rear bodies on both cars but I know some of the US team use the 54mm shafts in the shorter bodies.

Did you have to put the 2mm spacer on in addition to the lower spring platform?

I hope to be at the regional at Cov on the 20th so if your about pop over and say hi, will have both cars with me ..... no doubt filthy as I bet I don't get chance to clean them between now and then!!!! LOL

Do you guys now were I can find a spring table for the RB5/Lazer Kyosho springs?

Not sure i understand your question Roger, but i put a 2mm washer on the shaft so that it sits on top of the bottom shock coller.

Might have to sweet talk the missus!!, but i should be able to make it down to Cov on the 20th to say hi.

I made this: Hit me!

Some springs missing?

Sorry, I know this is an old thread.

Just looking at the image in the post above, are they in any particular order? I'm just wondering generally which colours are stiffer than others?