Buying a DEX410v3 - what do you need
 

So, plans are I should (hopefully) sell my touring car in the coming week and put the funds into getting a 410v3.

What i'd like to know from owners of these are what parts you need as a definate for spares (example wishbones etc) and if there are any bits that you have upgraded because it was a racing necessity (not just because it looks pretty...im not against tarting up my car, but at first I need to stick to the basics)

Any info is welcomed and thanks in advance

John

410 v3
 

Hello mate,
All that i have done to mine from standard is fit machined gears f/r and added the brass weight that goes under the chassis at the rear. I also got the tresrey servo saver on advice by a few owners that the plastic one breaks but mine is still ok. A must do is to change the spur derango ones are crap rw do them. As for spares ive yet to break a single thing on mine after a full season racing. Get for safety sake wishbones f/r steering knuckles. These things are bullet proof.
Hope that helps Jp.

What's the advantage of the machined gears?

If I was starting again this is what I would buy

Car upgrades:
Machine cut rear diff gear
Alloy rear bulkhead inserts
Alloy hexes
Schumacher slipper pads
Purple, Yellow, Dark Red front springs
Black, Dark Green rear springs
Rear brass skid plate
4 hole and 5 hole durango pistons
1.2, 1.3, 1.4 mm drills
New style inner hingepins
1.5mm and 2.0mm anti-roll bars

Spares for breakages and high wear bits:
87T spur gear
Front stub axles
Drive shaft pins
Outer hinge pins
Front shock shafts (44mm)
Front drive shaft
Rear bulkhead
Spare screws for the diffs
Front wishbones
Set of rear hubs

light red rear springs and light green rears! depends on surface ive never needed the machine cut diff gears and i have run my old car for over a year on all surfaces and they are still fine, side weight can be good for polished floor, ive never needed the alloy servo saver, 1.5, 1.6mm drills too, 1.6*3 front 450 dark blue and 1.6*4 rear 350 light green works a treat on astro and polished wood and every were and i wud recommend all anti roll bars, 1.1, 1.3, 1.5, 1.7, 2.0

A Dremel :woot::thumbsup:

They are stronger as the kit ones are cast and they aren't made of the greatest material in the world. The machined ones last for ages, mine are over 2 seasons old and show very little wear and they mesh better so they're a lot quieter.

All in all they are well worth the extra. :thumbsup:

Think it largely depends how much you crash... And how carefully you build it (use the build tips on the website).

After a season I've stripped a servo horn - that's it & I'm certainly not a great driver but not a terrible one either.

I rebuilt the transmission a few weeks back, I had to replace 1 driveshaft pin & a add 1 shim to each diff, I can't think of a more bulletproof car:thumbsup:

I may have lured RogerM to his keyboard with that comment:woot: