superstox advise
 

just run my superstox last night built to the book running 13.5 on a blinky setting the car was near impossible to drive it was awful. It veered of every time you tried to put any power down it was really snappy into every corner.

In rd2 I moved the rear springs to the outside setting buried even more additive on the back car still kicked all over the place like a bad set up dave but was slightly better.

So rd3 I put some toe in on the front turned down my throttle curve to -100% and turned my steering epa down to 50 :woot: it was better then but still a lap off the pace.

At the moment I am a bit disheartened with it and thinking of going back to the dave as it would have been quicker with its stock g12 than this.

So has anyone got any tips on stopping the back end from kicking all over when putting any sort of power down and stop it being so snappy on the corners all advise would be great cheers:)

Throw away the kit front tyres. Use 60 or 50 shore tyres. Check your ride height, set it for 4mm. I've gone harder on the front springs, and am going to try a harder rear spring tonight. Use the middle holes on rear pod. I initially ran without Orings in the links, but run them now.

The kit fronts are very grippy, i changed mine for 50's. I also changed my servo position to as far back as i could get it to make it less snappy. The steering on my radio is only set to 70% as well.

Are you running the diff or not? With diff mine is a dream to drive, without i have to run the softest O rings under the links, i didn't like it with no O ring at all.

I can say honestly say that mine was as quick out of the box (with diff) as a well set up dave.

i run kit tyres all round with no issues

two things to check, double chech the link length of the turnbuckle infront of motor pod, this must be correct to the book, and what gear ratio are you running, i run 30/70 on a small track as the rear stepped out on power if a low gear ratio was used, not the only on to find this

yes this is important! I forgot that one.
Even with that critical adjustment set right, mine did used to pull sometimes on acceleration depending on carpet and direction of the pile. That went away when I got the diff.

What dia tyres Mark, blinky mode, motor ?

47/35 shore, 47.5/50mm thunderpower motor 25 deg timing blinky speedo (hobbywing 1s) 30/70 pin/spur

so are all you guys running a diff then I know this would no doubt calm the back end down as you could set a bit of slip
I was running the kit spur and 16 pinion last night
cheers for all the advise so far guys I really want this car to work for me as I enjoy running mardave class the most for my friday fun nights

Cheers Mark. Might be a daft question this but can a certain speedo be better than another speedo on blinky mode ?

suposedly no, but im sure there will br slight differences in punch etc

mine was the same,untill i fitted the diff,total changed the car,its ace to drive now:thumbsup:

From what I've heard the hobbywing speedo has a certain amount of static timing built into it even in blinky mode. There is a noticeable difference when I've races against people using hobbywing vs my core pacer

Interesting , so the only real way of having a "STOCK SETTING" would be for all manufacturers to run the same software or components and that wouldn't happen ! Not really a equal playing field !

It would be good to see what people were using today to see if there was an advantage.

Join in here @ GT12 Circuit Cars UK and join a 200 strong community ;)

You cab also do something with a lrp speedo it give it timing in blinky mode

So what you are saying is that the people at ROAR who are putting all these ESCs on an oscilloscope to check that they are built to the exact blinky specification are doing it wrong and that a significant proportion of the ESCs allow you to cheat?

In that case could you explain why my "cheat" Hobbywing Xtreme Stock ESC is exactly the same speed as my (hopefully legal) Speed Passion Reventon ESC? And can you explain why LRP (who happened to have helped create the Blinky spec) are still submitting cheat speedos? And can you explain why the A-final cars at the Cotswold BRCA Clubman's national on a 60m straight were incredibly even on pace, with a variety of ESCs in use?

The problem with Blinky is that everyone is paranoid about getting beaten, And if people get beaten, they suspect foul play. The truth is, some people are better at preparing their powertrain, some people are better drivers, and some people are both.

Ummm cheating, don't think I mentioned that. You think your speedo is cheating, maybe what I heard is correct. :lol:

Just saying what I have been told. The LRP 'trick' is a sequence of some sort you do to change settings on it. Obviously only LRP insiders would know this, unless its not true and just a romour.

Not worried about being beaten, infact the 4 GT12 meetings I've done I've TQ'ed and won all 4, even beaten your "cheat" speedos :woot: all about corner speed with GT12 ;)

Not sure how they check speedos, but would the way they check them only check timing advance or will it do static timing. As that's what I have heard the hobby wing has over the core one

From MY experience the hobby wing speedos I've ran against have had higher top end than my core with roughly the same rollout/lipo ratings.

I had the diff fitted and the car was sh*te. Changed the rears which were kit 32's to another set of 32's and it was sorted. So can only have been the tyres. Now have the V12VRXce though :D

Motor and gearing go for around 68/70mmpr. I went to Barley Mow and checked in with Mark Jewitt re rollout for a smaller track and he said just leave as is. He was right.

Are these club meetings ???

Yep, they were in deed. HRCC, Bedford and MK but beating people who were in the A final at the national over weekend. ;)

Even made A finals at touring car meetings with it too

Anyway this thread was someone asking for advice, not about cheaty speedos and me :blush: let's keep on track.