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Build tips for the Ansmann X2

I'm about ready to start building the X2 pro kit but have some questions related to my past experience of building a Mad Rat.

Is the Ansmann M3 thread cutter a worthwhile purchase? I heard the plastics are denser on the pro kits.

Do the front and rear wheels still bind on the hubs like the mad rat? If so, what is the best way of fixing this?

I'll be running a 12t ezrun motor, a pretty mild system really, will I need to strengthen the gearbox for this? nylon idler gear, kevlar diff and spur etc?

Is it worth using AE green slime when building the shocks? Or is there an alternative?

Is the aluminium front arm mount with weight a good idea?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 200sx (Post 701534)

I'm about ready to start building the X2 pro kit but have some questions related to my past experience of building a Mad Rat.

Is the Ansmann M3 thread cutter a worthwhile purchase? I heard the plastics are denser on the pro kits.

I have one but you can just use a stainless steel cap head screw to cut the thread. I use stainless screws throughout anyway.

Do the front and rear wheels still bind on the hubs like the mad rat? If so, what is the best way of fixing this?

Don't over tighten the wheel nut squashing the plastic hex.
I use alloy 12mm hex hubs ansmann do some but I use cheaper ones from a certain auction site. 4mm on the front & 6mm on the rear.

I'll be running a 12t ezrun motor, will I need to strengthen the gearbox for this? nylon idler gear, kevlar diff and spur etc?

I use the updated idler but standard diff and spur gears with no issues.

Is it worth using AE green slime when building the shocks? Or is there an alternative?

Yes slime from any manufacturer. The standard alloy shocks are very good.
The big bores require a fatter lower O ring than supplied to stop leaks; even with slime.(or two O rings). 1mm correct diameter are ok the manual says ansmann a are 1mm but they appear to be thinner.

Is the aluminium front arm mount with weight a good idea?

Yes I use them. But you can just ad weight; either brass/copper sheet or tyre balancing weight.

Also think about adding under battery weight. I buy copper sheet from a certain site; if you ask they'll cut it to size for a couple of £ extra and you can get a stick,saddle and servo sized weights from a single sheet. You just need to work out the sizes and ask.

Quote:

Originally Posted by redonesgofaster (Post 701536)

I use alloy 12mm hex hubs ansmann do some but I use cheaper ones from a certain auction site. 4mm on the front & 6mm on the rear.

Are they the clamp type?

Tap the threads if you can. Particularly on the c-hubs. You can also use the longer ball studs with a nut behind. There's a thread about it somewhere. I also use an m3 washer on the ball stud which stops the non threaded part going into the plastic and forcing it open.

Never had a problem with the wheels binding on the plastic hexes. But now use the alloy ones as they don't come off with the wheels :)

Uprate the idler, and also make sure you compress slipper and diff springs prior to fitting. It's the overheating that usually damages the internals.

With the weight it's personal preference and also depends how much your kit weighs. Lipos, std/ low profile servo etc. with the xPro I have under lipo, under servo and the brass front bulkhead. Think its 60, 35, 30g weight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 200sx (Post 701544)

Are they the clamp type?

Yes they are :)