Overheating 22
 

The past few race meetings I have had problems with my electrics overheating in my 22 and the car starting to cog. Fair enough they have been reasonably warm days, but no one else had any problems!!

Am running the nosram pearl ESC and Pure motors which have been back to schumacher and no problems were found, also had similar problems when using a borrowed speedpassion motor and a V2Pearl ESC.


Have started on kit (losi manual and electrics manual) recommended gearing and fluctuated a tooth up and down with no real luck.

It's running in mid motor format, with the ESC mounted up front behind the servo. Everything runs nice and free in the car so I know it's not through excessive drag. Just wondered if anyone else has had similar problems and what they did to cure it?

I think it's a lack of airflow under the kit shell.


If anyone is running a Nosram Pure 6.5 or 8.5 on grass/astro I would be interested to know what gearing you are running together with ESC settings for Nosram Pearl ISTC as I seem to be going in circles.


Cheers in advance.

Hi,

what temps are you getting after a run?

Are you running advanced timing or boost settings on ESC?

What timing insert do you have in motor?

with a 6.5T LRP motor i normally run a 21t pinion, if the track is large with a long straight or very open i would try a 22t pinion to calm the throttle.

i use a 8.5T LRP motor in the wet or if a track is slippy or tight and technical, the biggest pinion i would run is a 23t with ths motor

LRP/VTEC motors are pretty much the same as Nosram and are known for running warm but i've never had issues with overheating.

cogging could also be caused by a damaged sensor lead or too much advanced timing... or an ESC not calibrated to transmitter properly? have you tried resetting the ESC?

I'm assuming that there are no binding issues wih car transmission/drivetrain and everything is smooth and free when turned by hand?

Cheers for the reply, a couple of things for me to try.

A heat gun is recommended for accurate checking of temperature for modern gear.... i use a little hpi one i've had for years, wasn't a lot of money, just helps keep an eye on heat and useful on a hot day to check it's not getting close to meltdown

i've checked my LRP instructions and 4 dots is -10deg which is the recommended factory setting which is what i run as advised by an LRP tech Guru.

the car spinning up on turn on is the Spektrum kit not your speedo etc, you need to turn on the failsafe on the spektum system, my instructions are buried but you have to turn everything on in a sequence with the bind buttons pressed... that is not 100% so check instructions or hopefully another oOpler with confirm how you do it.... also stops the car disappearing if it loses signal/bind so important really!

are you running any sort of curve or expo function on your radio? have you got throttle and brake end points on maxuimum on transmitter?

underbody airflow is a bit poor around motor/speedo in standard mid form as i's tight under there.... i always cut roof vent in shell, you could mount a speedo sized fan on the motor guard and cut a hole in it to allow air around motor... i always run a fan on speedob too, many don't with a 2wd buggy but i see it as helping.

a loose slipper/diff will cause heat in electrics as they spin up more but at the same time if they are too tight you put more load on them!

I've had a similar problem and put it down to limited airflow and warmer recent sundays, although I have been scanning around for cooler running motors! Defo cut some cooling vents, try an old shell if you have one:)

Had a similar problem. I cut the cooling vents in the body and fitted a fan on the motor guard. Had to cut a hole for this in the motor guard but it cured the problem and now it's fine.

Sounds interesting, any chance of a pic?:)

Can't post any pics as my iPhone won't let me but if you pm me your email address I will email you some pics

I'm not sure your cogging is caused by heat Jon, it was doing it Sunday at the end of the first lap, cool day too. If anything it sounded worse then it has done.

Cheers for the ideas guys, somethings to try with regards to the heat as it does get hot, but:....................




Les and David thought it's interferance rather than cogging! It seemed to vary from race to race too and although I changed a fair few things during the day including transponder, receiver, sensor wires, motor and ESC location I am now running out of things to try beyond my transmitter and a different servo.


It will get there in the end and perhaps now I am looking down the right route to solve the problem.

What kind of battery are you running?
Those low turn motors don't tend to perform well on less than 50c batteries.
And are all your connectors fresh, good solder joints and all?
Oftentimes electronics issues can be traced to something simple.

LRP 5000mah 50c I think they are in saddle pack formation.

The solder joints look ok to, clean and held together ok, although I am no expert.

Yesterday I did install the 40mhz module and receiver back into my 22 and it seemed to resolve the interferance, but have no idea if it's the spektrum module or receiver that may be causing the problem, or if there is just a daft connection between the two somewhere.