410v3 hop-up requirements ??
 

Looking at buying a 410v3, is there any upgrades needed to prevent breakages or make it nicer/easier to drive ?

1. Alu Rear Gearbox brackets
2. Alu Servo Saver - TD or Tresrey

Idd i think these are the most important...
I've got a lot more hop ups but they aren't needed!

this

for sure

Out of interest why do you need the alu servo saver? What difference does it make to the plastic one? :)

i've split two plastic servo savers, as they "save" they seem to split straight up the side.

The plastic one is ok but they can jump a spline on the servo causing the steering to be out. The 410 has a servo saver on the steering but in some cases the servo saver will work but the servo horn can still jump on impact. An aluminum one means that the servo saver will do its job just as well but without the risk of the servo horn jumping. Nothings worse than trying to drive most of the race with the steering out.

Get the TD one as all others seem too long. :thumbsup:

ok thanks for clearing that up il get one ordered :thumbsup:

Are you mixing servo saver with servo arm ??

Sounds like it, i have a Durango servo horn/arm and a tresrey servo saver. Having split two of the savers and one horn/arm.

the standard plastic servo arm flex's as well as jumps so a definate must!

Servo horn I was talking about, if you break a servo saver arm then the servo saver is adjusted too tight. I've not broke a servo saver arm but I have stripped a servo horn.

You haven't seen Matt drive!! :woot:

Sorry Matt :p

Lol, I've someone else smash an arm before but it was a hard hit at full lock.

If you have the cash I'd get one, unfortunately I thread locked the adjuster nut as per the manual and it isn't shifting without damaging it.

Soak it in acetone - or heat it with a soldering iron. :thumbsup:

Cheers Jimmy, should of thought of that as I use a light on the driveshaft grubs screws when there tight. :thumbsup:

Is also recommend using Tamiya shock orings as the standard ones don't seen to be a patch one the old ones. The seem soft (too soft IMO) and leak. I've just changed them on my 210 for that reason and now they are leak free plus they are cheaper than the Durango ones.

Alloy rear bulkhead inserts are a very good idea.

Well, the list of stuff i've broken thro bad driving instead of just big driving is VERY long. But saying that, both the 210 and the 410 have stood up to far far more than my b4.1 did.

done all 4 arms at one time or another, repeatedly, hubs, c-hubs, hinge pins (too many to count), hinge pin toe blocks , towers (into double figures, including an aluminium one, and 3 cf), front and rear bulkheads, servo horns, servo savers, shock shafts...... and more......

Its STILL a shorter, and cheaper list than the parts i broke on the b4.1.

I'm getting better tho, didn't break anything much this month. Yet.

is there a good replacement servo horn for the dex410?

i've got a number of unused servo horns including brand new Alu ones but they all have a different offset to what the dex410 requires. (i'm referring to offset as the height between the base and the top surface of the servo horn).
as a result, when using it, the linkages are not perpendicular but at an angle to each other.

First there is the alu durango (think its the 8th scale ones) those are recommended first. I have the losi one with a spacer behind the ball stud