Kyosho Optima Mid - SWB/Carbon/Runner
 

Hi guys,

I paused my restore projects for awhile and worked on my Optima Mid runner project. I have chosen to build my runner based on the SWB platform. I want a shorter car because of the layout of our local track.

So far I have been working on making carbon fiber parts with my dremel. It took relatively long time to craft them that way but I have no other tools. I bought the fiber plates from Hongkong and China and the car is made of 1.5/2.0/2.5mm thick material.

Let me show you some pictures of my progress so far. Chassis have been assembled for testing to see if I have missed something (which I have) :lol:

I personally think it look cool, like a stealth plane sort of. It certainly needs some bling colors later on :drool:

http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_001.jpg


http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_002.jpg


http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_003.jpg


http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_004.jpg


http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_005.jpg


http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_006.jpg

That looks amazing....how did you make the parts exactly? I mean what techniques did you use?

I wish I had the skills to do this..

The screws on the underside look a little elevated. Did you leave them loose on purpose or are the countersinks in the chassis not wide enough? I can't tell. The hex screws give the car a modern slick appearance.

I'm sure with the cf build your car will be stiffer...I wonder how this will affect grip? I guess it depends what surface and tyres you use.

Nevertheless, this brings the optima mid to the modern day. Well done!

Thanks for your comment! I really appreciate it :)

I used this technique:
1. Find a part to use as a blueprint.
2. Place it on a carbon plate and drill two holes through two original holes.
3. Put a screw and a nut in those holes to keep it firm.
4. Use a dremel or similar and cut it roughly.
4. Now trim it closer and closer until you just touch the original part's outer bound.
5. Do the some thing with the inner areas that should be "holes".
5. Drill through all the original holes.
6. Take the blueprint away and file down any ugly areas.

I think that's about it :)

You are totally right about the screws underneath. I'm not done with the counter sunk yet. The hex screws are new from RC Screws and yes, they make it look good!

This will certainly affect the chassis flex but I'm not going to race it hard or compete with it. Just cruising around our track on sundays smiling because of the nostalgic memories :lol:

I think I might do the same thing..

You should! Just ask me if you need help creating carbon parts. I only know about this particular technique though :lol:

Wear a dust mask! Carbon dust in the lungs isn't good at all.

Very true! That can't be repeated too many times. Thanks for pointing that out.

really nice, but if your track has big jumps, you would be better off with the original aluminium chassis. trust me on that as i snapped my graphite chassis a few months back. i am also going to build a SWB with my existing parts to make an indoor basher. it will probably beat the heck out of the newer cars becuase of its SWB.

Thank you for your comment, alcyon. Good to know about your experiences with carbon chassis. We don't have any big jumps so I hope my chassis will hold.

Looking forward to your SWB build. Your LWB build (your blog) has been a great inspirational source. For example I also ordered one of those A&L (Alec & Lane) steering mechanism with ball bearings for this project. I will also add a B4 slipper because I think it's really needed on a high bite track.

Here is an overview (fisheye-lens) of our local astroturf track that where my Optima Mid will be running:
http://media.skarpnack.nu/2011/12/20...-small-hdr.jpg
Image source: www.skarpnack.nu

Both the car and the track look immense :)

Yeah! :wub

I have been productive today! Here is a list of what I have done:

- Teared the whole car down in parts again.
- Assembled front and rear gear differentials including ball bearings and out drives.
- Assembled the gears in rear gear box including a custom made lay shaft (for using B4 slipper and spur).
- Found a N.I.B SWB belt for this project and mounted it so we now have 4WD!
- Fitted a Team Alec & Lane (A&L) Ball Bearing Steering Kit (#2182) from http://vintageteamaandl.com.
- Worked some more on the counter sunked holes. I don't think I dare making them deeper now.

And of course we should have some images added to illustrate the list above. I skipped the top deck so you can better view the A&L steering mechanism.

http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_007.jpg


http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_008.jpg


http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_009.jpg


http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_010.jpg


http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_011.jpg

Oow! So lovely it hurts:cry:


:thumbsup:

All I can say is WOW. That looks amazing. Where did you get the carbon sheets from?

Thanks! :woot:

1.5/2.0mm sheets from Hobbyking (HK) and 2.5mm from happychoice2009 (seller from China) on Ebay.

The custom layshaft is crafted by bigjeepzz on Oople.com.

/j0pp3

Small update.

I know, I am doing things the other way around. Body done before the chassis. A white repro Turbo Optima Mid body with repro Turbo Optima Mid decals from Tamkyo. I will leave the windows transparent. The text near the bottom is spelled a bit strange (B UGGY) so I am glad I did not use Tamkyo decals for my restore projects :lol:

Now I am waiting for a few parts before I continue.

http://joppis.dyndns.org/optima_mid_...runner_012.jpg

something to note. becuase i kind of did the same thing. the rear shocks, you cant place them the original mids way becuause they will interfere with the long slipper shaft. you will have to place the shocks at the rear like lazer style, and flip the rear arms. oh yes, i do not use lazer arms anymore since i broke a c hub a week ago. since i have a pair of original A & L bearing c hub from the 80's, i decide to use those, then ground down a ZX-5 plastic hub to 20mm from 22mm to fit them in. works great now. the mids arms are strong too.

Thanks for pointing that out. Did you also moved the rear shock tower to the rear side of the gear box? I will use Mid arms on this project but I'm not sure about the wheel hubs yet.

/j0pp3

yes my shock towers are at the back, but thats also becuase i still use the fibrelyte James Instone shock towers. You should stick with mid rear hubs becuase they are the only ones that would fit properly. i have plenty of those and even have one NIP i found from my local shop. The only problem is the OT-16 knuckle which always strips the kingpin thread area. so i bought Lazer ZX-5 plastic knuckles and grind off the top to fit it in the mids c hubs and they work great !

Much appreciated. I will look into that :)

How do you protect the belt from dust? Using repro lexan belt covers?

I will maybe modify an LWB under tray to fit the SWB chassis. That together with only running on astro turf will probably minimize the wear :lol:

yes i use the repro belt covers and i add some silicon sealents on the places where the double sided tape deosnt protect.