Tight fitting 22 gearbox
 

I checked my car over the other day and it was a bit if a mess. I was changing screw to stainless and noticed on reconstruction how tight the gear box was even when backing of the screws. I flushed it, cleaned it and it's almost like when the gear ox is out of the carit is fine. In the car the chassis seems to tighten it so its no longer smooth but tight and a bit of a dog. , mid motor 22 any ideas
Thanks

Bent chassis?
Screw holes off centre?
Tightening the screws down out of sequence (so to speak)?

All could twist the case and stiffen it up.

It could be the anti squat shim and insert. If you don't have the right combo, the tranny doesn't sit properly.

:confused::confused: Right combo? There's only one insert.

In the end I worked it out. Took me about 4 hours to work out the acre connecting one side of the gear box to the motor plate was o we right causing the gear box to twist a little causing it not to run right. It now is much smoother. Makes me think the one floor about the 22 is the maintenance of the car. You need to undo so many screws to get access to the diff. At least 10 screws and it's so fidlly. Are all 2wd like this. Sv2, dex 210, c4.1

This is for rear motor, in mid you need thinner insert for taller shim. numbers needs to match the notches

as for workability, the 22's rear end can be a pain. Now that I'm running the DEX210 it seems a bit better, but not much, to change the anti squate on it is like changing toe on the 22, you need to un bolt alot of stuff and flex it a bit, hopefully not shooting shims and inserts every were, so the 22 isn't the only one like that. I'm not sure what the cougar is like, but I know the xxx-cr was a peice of cake, and I think the B4 is similar. The X6^2 also seems pretty good with the ability to keep the motor plate in place and remouve just the tranny, very slick. In short, just get an electric screw driver for tear down and 80% of the re assembly, save the last 20% to do by hand.

There's only one insert. ;)

Every car has it flaws, if you want to call it that.
Whether it's removing 8 or 12, I just don't see that much of a difference. Most cars are going to be close, because they're all similar in the number of fasteners because of the configuration.

Overtightening fasteners is operator error, not a design flaw.;)

Canadian kit must be different lol. In mid motor config, the tranny sit on the insert. If you raise the block without a thinner insert, the tranny will lift and the top screw won't fit properly.

Once you get the tlr2045 antisquat tunning kit (to go with the HRC block) you end-up with 8 different inserts.

Page 23 of the manual shows the inserts for mid motor.

Hope this help.

Jon,

Don't shoot me down here, but you seem to have HRC and LRC toe blocks and Antisquat plates

The LRC Plates are marked with the size and a 'T'
The HRC Plates are just marked with the size

There are also the inner bridge plates
Again the LRC are marked 'T' with the size
And the HRC with only the size.

Again don't shoot me here but have you married the right bridge with the antisquat plate for either HRC or LRC

I think if you check the additional kit inserts, that none of them other than one of them will accept 3mm screws.
Perhaps they've made a running change, but both of my buggies and my T were that way.:D

Don't worry I'm not trying to shoot anybody down, I'm just want to help as many guys were confused at my track last winter as they didn't know which insert to use which cause binding. I was talking about the small insert beside the anti squat plate.
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/TLR...LR2045-250.jpg

There is one threaded for rear motor config and the other with 3mm hole to be married with the anti-squat shim. And you are correct, shim kits needs to be used togetter (T with LRC, other with HRC). If I remember the mesure I took last winter, 2.5T is equivalent to 1.2deg of antisquat with the HRC toe block but thats probably more confusing than anything lol.

That's the one for rearmotor config. The other ones have bigger holes because the screw is supposed to go through to the threaded holes of the gearbox.

So, if you are running midmotor with the 3mm threaded insert, then you're doing it wrong...

hmmmmm
 

i got mine to the track today and thinking all was well..... after a rebuild with a gear diff...
a local dude, and our membership secretary, Duncan, spun my wheels and said, wow, thats tight. yep, diff smooth, but the gear was tight. i was shocked.....
just about to strip and rebuild the diff, but THE man notyiced after playing with the spur/pinion.... that it was the LONG bolt that secured the mid motor guard in place to the ali part.... the ong screw was to much and touched on the slipper metal part. so, removed and added a couople small washers and all was lovelly again.........

fresh eyes on a seemingly major issue often helps..... I would have stripped the entire rear end and would not have seen why.....

always get a 2nd opinion.......... saves time and wrenching..........

cheers Duncan.......... still beat me by one place to win the A final today. but i have to thank him, hes the man......................