DEX210 and DEX410 V3 spare parts / Hop ups???
 

Hello

I almost got all my electronics for my dex210 and dex410 V3.

Now could you guy's please give me some advice?

* What hop ups could you recommend for the 210 and 410
* What spare parts do you need to have with you for the 210 and 410

Hope that you guys can give me soms tips, because I'm loosing it :woot:

Really looking forward to race these cars!!!

As with most cars it's good to have:

- wishbones
- hubs
- shock towers

Not sure of the dex410 as I don't own one, but the only thing I've broke on dex210 is the rear plastic mount. Also the ball cups ae known to pop off easily, but if you build then as per their guide on the website it should be okay.

The little sleeve on the layshaft on the dex210 its like 11mm long I think, but its what takes the compression from the slipper and after awhile it can result in being crushed and therefore the slipper not tightening.

410V3 if it's a pro version just get the ally 14mm hubs, ally servo saver and the ally front and rear gearbox sets standard part number TD310039, then its good to go.

210

Ally shock towers front and rear (personally use the Cream ones)
ally rear 14mm hex's
also there is the carbon steering rods
carbon rear camber upgrade


then weight as required, other options are the Cream front bulkhead either ally or brass and ally FR mount last ones are just tuning options!

Spares the 210 is pretty bullet proof apart from the rear diff but several posts on here as how to sort that, so just standard parts like wishbones, bearings, shock towers, and the 410 pretty similar!
Hope this helps just my opinion though!

What are these ally shock towers I thought creams were all carbon ?

Bearrings are coming this way...
Now let's take a look for spare parts :)

The carbon ackermann I already have, the carbon shocktowers are they needed?

410
Not sure which of the suspension blocks are aluminium on the V3, but a full set of ally ones will do you no harm. Other than that, the rear gbox ring and front and rear bulkheads are the only other thing i can think off that i've snapped that isn't already listed. (front bulkhead can go if you overload the front tower, rear can go if you overload the wing OR get a big jump wrong)

TD310039 is just a casing and "bits" set, including the rings. Get the tresrey ones instead, cheaper and shiny ;o)

210
Cream towers are all CF (except for the front camber blocks on the 210) worth getting.

And depending on the track/battery/set up/driving style, some of the front weights are useful. I've got 3 extra (small) weights at the front which i can chop and change, rather than getting one monster lump thats an all or nothing fix.

BTW, there are a few other threads listing stuff like this, have a bit of a dig.

Thanks for the advice!

I've already searched a lot :)
But there are so many answers ...

TD310039 => the tresrey ones are they needed or are the plastic ones good enough?

For me the 'Must Haves' to eliminate known problems are:-

Both cars Tresrey 14mm wheel hexes. No more potential for axle pins to fall out.

210
Cream Extreme front and rear towers
Tresrey steering link

410
Tresrey alu servo saver

The rest are tuning aids or simply bling.

Thanks for the help!

Is there a difference between the Durango 14mm wheel hexes and the tresrey ones?

Not needed as such, it just turns that particular part of the car into fit and forget. They don't have a knock on effect on anything else, but they'll never break.
You might break a ring once or twice a year. I've done two.

FWIW Some of the CF bling *can* make other parts fail, even if its much less often, eg, going to CF towers can have an impact on the bulkheads they are mounted to. But instead of snapping a plastic tower once or twice a month (5 minute repair), you do the bulk head once every 3 or 4 months (half an hour of unscrewing and rescrewing and jiggling balls and washers into place.........)

Its always a trade.

And i am (possibly) ashamed to say that i have finally given up on the Durango ball cups and balls. I've tried ALL the tricks, everything on here, everything on the TD site, a few i thought up on my own.
So a switch to the Associated TiNi balls w/RPM long shank cups is in progress.

:(

Durango 14mm are held in place by the drive pin, the tresrey ones use an extra bolt to clamp onto the axle. Other features mean you can make sure the pins never come out.

http://www.tresrey.com/tresrey/img/TYTD076_01s.jpg

Thanks guys!!!

Just placed an order for some hop ups :)

410 => TYTD036 Tresrey alu servo saver,Tresrey TYTD054 and TYTD055 alu gearbox positioner front +rear, TD 310006 and TD 310007 alu gearbox insert.

210 => 8-Racing carbon front and rear shocktower, carbon ackermann, carbon batterystrap and Tresrey TYTD066 alu battery thumb nut.

Think these are enough hop ups for the moment for these cars.
The alu wheel hexes are out of stock, if somebody knows a shop that got these in stock?

Next: spares! :)

MB Models has the Tresrey Ally hex's in stock, I ordered some last night :thumbsup:

So still in stock or because of you already out of stock :p

Got the tresrey hex also for the 410 and 210 :)

it also means removing the pins for cleaning/maintenance is a lot easier than trying to push a tight pin out of the driveshaft :)

what about the alloy shock bottoms?

I've got cars with and without, never noticed any difference between them at all.
Plus by the time you have a 210 and a 410, you probably have 8 spare plastic caps. I've never bought one, yet both times i needed a replacement, there seemed to be dozens kicking round in my spares box......

It may just be one of those fit and forget upgrades, they rarely break, but once you replace them with aluminium, they never break.

Fancy some aluminium tops for the shocks tho :D