Km concepts chassi and sp conversion
 

Hi can anybody tell me if it is possible to run the zx-5 sp conversion kit on the km concepts chassi, and do you think it will be worth it. Because i am thinking of trying it for optimum tuning options

you should be able to do KM conversion on an SP as chassis and gearboxes are as per original zx5... but why bother :confused:

SP car runs just great as is.

here comes with my Lazer ZX5 with KMC conversion...........enjoy.....:thumbsup:

thanks

now thats kool and exrtemely neat............welldone....... but whered u get the concepts chassi from

been here (was curious) and run away very quickly. Car was nowhere compared to the stock SP on the track. Unpredictable rear and nothing from the front with the KMC.

roger can i just haul you up on this one the kmc chassis does have an unpredictable rear granted but but no front on mine turned up its own arse so bad i couldnt drive tbh tom yardeeee could not drive it so yes the stock chassis is better but the 4+2 chassis is they way to go as tested and vastly quicker:thumbsup:

i have one for sale, pm me.

We chatted at Ledbury ...... I agree ... 4x2 is the way.

My version MAY be at the Oz national but my holiday might get in the way.

Thx !!..........that KMC kit was bought in Hong Kong few months ago........at around usd$120........:D

someone in another forum said my purple KMC Lazer ZX5 looks like a product from Schumacher.......purple plus yellow color......... :)

I've been suffering a lot with my KMC conversion - I have way too much front end and very little from the back end in the way of grip.

But - there has to be a reason for it, and hence a cure. I race on a polished wooden floor so the problem is amplified.

If I can't find the cure - then I'll have to sell it!

My personal feeling is that the KMC kit is the way to go. Raced mine with the standard chassis for many meetings and found that it produces excellent traction and turn in but when it came to landing jumps, 2 or 3 times out of 10 the car would not land right and kick out, which can be costly when looking for a quick and clean 5 minute race. This is down to the weight being on one side. Since switching to the KMC Kit the car is much more predictable on landing.

Hog.. To help with all round traction and handling with the KMC layout I found that standing the shocks up right helps matters, also try RB5 rear hubs, idealy to do this you will also need RB5 drive shafts and spaces in your shocks.

Cheers RSharpy - I'll have a look at that. Something that was pointed out to me last week is that I have virtually no camber change on the rear through the suspension travel - so tomorrow I'm going to shorten the top links and try and sort the roll centre - at the moment I don't think I have a roll centre on the rear!

I've got the alloy rear hubs so I have plenty of adjustment to play with.

It had been fine, but a combination of going brushless, lipo, and some suspect tyres means I'm way off the pace at present.

Yep I have my top links on the shortist fitment. Also with the hubs try running more kick up, one up from kit. :)

You've lost me. I have alloy hubs with 2 holes for top link, 3 holes for wishbone pin, and I run on long wheelbase. Do you mean anti-squat? If so I already use a 1mm washer under the rear (front edge) wishbone mount.

I'm going to adjust to shortest top-link to induce some camber - what do you have in the way of washers under the ballstuds each end?

Yep, ment anti squat, try 2m with the hubs on the first hole for your wishbone pin. If your running on polished floor i'd try short wheel base and 3 degree toe in.

Shorten the top link as planned. I have 4m washes on the hub and no washes on the inner.

First hole? Top or Bottom mate? Thanks for the tips :thumbsup:

Top hole to drop the wheel down, you will need to have a spaces in your shocks though to stop the drive shaft popping out. This along with your KMC kit will bring your car as close as pos to the world spec used by the Kyosho team. :) Untill Kyosho bring one out themselves that is. :thumbsup:

Ahh - right. Thanks for that. I'll let you know what happens.

Right - made some changes last night and did see an improvement in the final round. However it was a bit hit and miss last night as one lad tore a corner off his car and we had shock oil spread very thinly over the circuit - makes for some interesting lines I can tell you.

RSharpy - I tried running with the wishbone pin through the uppermost hole but couldn't as it caused the drive hex to foul the end of the wishbone! I ran it on the middle for first 2 heats and moved the outer balljoint on the hub inwards and raised it by about 2-3mm. Didn't see that much of a change to be honest.

However in the 3rd heat I stood the rear shocks more upright (centre hole on tower, inner hole on w/bone) and also I moved the hub carrier pin to the lowest hole - this raised the hub (the opposite of your suggestion) and gave the upper links more of an angle of inclination. This really did make an improvement to the car - made it a lot more chuckable.

Next step for me is to reduce the grip a little on the front to make the front to rear more balanced as I still have too much front end. Some of this may be transmitter settings though - think I need to sell my KO and get something easier for me to understand!!

What I've deduced from the above is that with the KMC chassis, and having the weight towards the rear, to get any semblance of lateral grip you've got to run with the rear top links very short and at quite an acute angle. In fact if I want to try the inner ballstuds on the outermost hole I'll have to source some shorter turnbuckles!

We're getting there.......thanks for your help RSharpy.